[4a Door Windows]

4 hours ago, qkingston said:

Thank you all for your suggestions. I seem to recall comparing the window glasses and checking measurements after someone (might have been you Roger) kindly posted a sketch of the different window dimensions; unfortunately I didn't take any photos of the comparison. It is still possible that there could be an incorrect glass on one side, although as the car came from California; I don't know whether there was a similar non-availability of 4a window glasses stateside?

What I did was to adjust the windscreen rake slightly to improve the top RH gap, it's not perfect but at least the glass doesn't hit the screen capping now and is within a mm from top to bottom between the glass and the frame. I also discovered that 2 of the clamp screws had slightly stripped threads and might have allowed a bit of movement in the screen frame.

Like many others, I removed the rusted metal channels which run down the inner side of the frame into which the original seal fits during the rebuild. Without this seal (replaced with the Woolies seal as recommended by Stuart) there is quite a gap between the frame and the front edge of the glass (as per photo) do people fit any other seal to the inner edge of the frame ???

Many thanks

David

I would refit [no need to weld, panel type adhesive will work] some new steel channel and fit the appropriate rubber seal into the channel....likewise the B pillar of the hard top.......Did you measure across the top?

[4a Door Windows]

Also....Have you compared the measurements across the top of the A to B pillars?

[TR4 refurb and jacking up]

Your statement....."an experienced Mobile Welder who is going to patch up the car" is of concern.

You need "an experienced body panel guy with a MIG".

[IRS diff axle spline size and number of teeth.]

Thanks Peter.

[IRS diff axle spline size and number of teeth.]

Am I correct in assuming that the spline diameter and number of teeth are the same for all TR IRS diffs?

[Heater matrix]

Is a TR5 an upgrade from a TR6? 

[Soft Top Fitment.]

Thanks Stuart.

 

[Soft Top Fitment.]

Just a general matter of interest question..
How to fit a new TR4A soft top to a TR4 soft top frame?
Assuming one has the TR4 windscreen capping piece for the front of the soft top insertion, can the front of a TR4A soft top be altered to fit TR4?
What do the insertion rods look like?
 

[LHD Dashboard specification]

I would start with the dash fascia that you intend to use, and modify the metal dash to suit.

As you have probably found, the conversion is not a simple cut and shut.

[Front pulley to crankshaft bolt]

IMHO...fan and pulley is very agricultural, but does work ok

I have fitted a harmonic balancer and electric fan to my TR4, along with engine/clutch balance....Cannot prove it's use though.

[Jobs for next year diff and maybe half shafts]

If your diff is badly worn, then your drive shafts and rear hubs may be problematic also.

I replaced the driveshafts and hubs on my project car with Australian made CV shafts and hubs...The bonus was that he also supplies replacement diff output axle/flanges to suit the bolt pattern of the shafts, hence no adapters required as with other suppliers....With the monetary exchange rate it may be a consideration for you.

[Triumph gearbox differences.]

Thanks guys.

[Triumph gearbox differences.]

I have a TR4 4 speed gearbox and a 2500 sedan overdrive gearbox in my garage.

The input shaft diameters are different....enlightenment please.

[Righthand Drive Convex]

I would buy or fabricate a new dash fascia first, and then alter the metal dash frame to suit.

[Camshaft removal]

The block needs to be line bored to fit new cam bearings, and then honed to suit the new camshaft.

Specialist engineering shop is required....They will also ascertain why that particular bearing failed....oil starvation?

Whoever you choose will need the new camshaft in hand to ensure correct fitment.

[Fuel Injection swap to carbs - a conundrum!]

I can appreciate your concern with a fuel pump failure.

As others have stated, fit a new pump, rather than change to carbs.

Also consider fitting an additional pump in the boot space as a back up....More fuel line/electrical work, but not difficult.

[Honeybourne Surrey Top.]

Probably not of much interest......Continuing hardtop preparation... 

Added some length[25mm] with fibreglass to the top outside edges for a better fit [deleting the back trim for an overall paint only look].

Also added about 3mm of filler to the side edges that provides a better fit at the front outside edge, so as to maintain the curve of the screen top. [usually there is a gap]

[Camshaft removal]

If you cannot invert the block to take the weight of the camshaft off the "bearing", then "harlequin's" idea should work.

[Narrow belt conversion, what do I need?]

I converted to narrow belt...Used a 6 cyl TR water pump [mount holes slightly modified], bosch alternator and a Aussie Holden harmonic balancer [with a front crank end spacer, no crank machining involved].

[4a. Won’t start after full rebuild. Any ideas what to check next pse?]

Cannot find the video....."Engine will not start"......Does the engine fire at all?

[Rear Wing Removal?]

I use a small 7/16 socket with a small steel rod welded on at an angle for the most difficult bolts.

 

 

[TR4A vs TR4AIRS chassis, is there any differences ?]

IMHO....I would buy a IRS chassis [more plentiful, and probably in better condition] and modify it to suit the live axle [if that is your preference].

The IRS chassis that was used for a factory live axle install is a poor design, and the rear will flex and twist even more than the factory IRS fixed diff due to extra load placed on the rear ends of the chassis rails.

For the IRS chassis with a live axle, I would weld in an additional outer chassis rail to bridge the space left by the deleted IRS swing arm....Similar to the original TR4 chassis design which has continuous outer chassis rails...[plus other strengthening modifications]

[How to finish off bumper holes following bumper removal]

The good thing with the "towel rail" is that ii gives the valance some protection in the event of a  minor impact.

[Gear lever from what model?]

Thanks guys...most of my TR gearbox "stuff" is from 2500 sedans, hence I was unaware of the TR2-4 lever difference.

[Gear lever from what model?]

I found this shifter amongst some TR4-6 gearbox parts.

I have never seen one with a hole through the main locator body.