ronhatch
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Posts posted by ronhatch
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Hi all, Engine rebuild time, I'm using the the original pistons and liners, all within tolerance with new rings. I marked all the liners to match the pistons and also the way they faced but I seem to remember someone suggesting that it is better to turn them 90 degrees if so what are the pluses and minuses of this ?
Regards
Ron
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thanks for the replies, it would seem I can cut them out and insert new ones, I was thinking of using sealant Rodger but thanks for the thought, happy christmas to all
Regards
Ron
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Hi all, I need to replace 2 pushrod tubes on a TR4 head which have rusted through, are they pressed in or are they just pushed in and flared to seal ?. I am preparing the head for unleaded conversion and so I have complete access.
Regards and seasons greetings
Ron
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Hi Andrew, I didn't think of that, cheers
Ron
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Hi all, is it possible to fit a TR4a hood to a TR4 as it seems easier to put up, obviously it can be done but are there any pitfalls ?
Regards
Ron
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Thanks for the reply Rodger, I have repaired both skin and frame in situ in the past but just wondered if it was worth separating the two.
Regards
Ron
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Hi all, I'm about to repair 2 doors, is it possible to remove the doorskin to aid repair ?, is the skin welded anywhere?, has anybody done this ?
Cheers
Ron
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Cheers
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Hi all, I'm pondering hood storage in the boot, my thoughts are either place the hood on the spare tyre and the cover it with a suitable piece of plywood on a couple of runners to stop pressure damage or some sort of plywood lid attached to the boot frame. Has anybody done this ? any thoughts, advice or photos would be helpful.
Regards
Ron
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Thanks all, some interesting posts. I'll get a bigger bag
Regards
Ron
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Hi Rodger, I will carry the usual jack and brace etc. but a multi meter would be useful
Cheers
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Hi all, I am putting together an emergency toolkit for my 1962 TR4 . I will include the usual set of spanners, an adjustable spanner, hammer, gaffer tape, screwdrivers, pliers, length of wire, points, condenser,feeler gauges and torch. Is there anything you can think of that I might need, something that you've stood by the roadside thinking "I wish I would have brought that" Please don't include welder,compressor,engine lift or competent mechanic etc. as they would be too big for the bag
Regards
Ron
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Thanks Rob for your stalwart efforts, I was probably over thinking the job, if the thermostat is reading ok and the engine is not boiling over it should be fine. I was probably just a bit anxious after the rebuild, I've adjusted the fan to cut in at a lower temp and will adjust as needed. Thanks to all for your input.
Regards
Ron
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Cheers
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I have only water in the system at the moment
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Hi Rob, thanks for the reply. The temp gauge is reading hot but I suspect it maybe the volt stabiliser and I have ordered a new solid state one, the car doesn't boil over and the rad cap is 7lbs but I have kept my eye on the cooling because of the temp gauge hence the check and it has only just been rebuilt.
What should the temp difference be between the head and the thermostat housing ?
Regards
Ron
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Hi All, My TR4 temp at the thermostat housing is about 82c when measured with an infra red thermometer but the head temp is higher at about 112c . Is this normal ?
Regards
Ron
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Big glass John
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Hi all, after putting off the hood fitting for ages I finally decided to do it today as the weather has warmed up, I have read a lot of items regarding the fitting process and I could forsee the problems and the chance of having a hood sagging or with ripples in it so not a task for the faint of heart ( hence the delay ) I also had a sore thumb the result of a very close encounter with a hammer head ! and so I was dubious about my ability to pull the hood tight to get the correct fit as it looked about 6 inches short So I had another coffee and a think, I decided to reverse the hinge bracket on the B post and use them on opposite sides which meant the hood sat down about 1 1/2 lower. After letting the hood warm in the sun I then marked and cut the first fitting, the lowered hood allowing me to easily stretch and mark the position ( I was more nervous than when my kids were born ) I also realised this method would only be good for the rear fittings parallel to the screen. Having done all the back ones I then switched the hinges back and erected the hood, big relief when it all looked good. Because the hood was now in tension the sides were relatively easy to position.
Conclusions
Spend lots of time centering the hood with chalk marks etc.
Mark and fit each fitting one at a time, I had a big log end on the rear seat to act as an anvil.
I found the punch off ebay was too clumsy too get a consistent fitting so I used a hole punch and then aligned the fitting punch on the hole and parallel to the edge, I also had to sharpen the spikes to aid the cutting.
I bought the hood from Don Trimming and it was well cut for the job ( although the first time I tried it on I thought it was too short )
I hope this helps as I know I was anxious about the finish which if done incorrectly would attract the eye immediately.
Regards
Ron
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Thanks to all
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Thanks Mark
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Hi all, I have decided to paint my TR4 Velasquez cream but as it is a complete colour change I have no parts for the paint supplier to match, they tried on their system but it gave no results Does anybody know where I could get a swatch of this paint or failing that has anybody got some that they could put on a piece of card and send to me, or is there another paint colour that is a near match ?
Regards
Ron
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Hi all, could someone tell me what size screws are used to fix the webbing plates to the hood sticks please. I put them safely away and ( as usual) can't find them. Are they threaded screws or self tappers ?
Regards
Ron
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Thanks Stuart thats great.
Regards
Ron Hatch
TR4
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Hi all, the female outlet on my TR4 fuel tank is knackered but I can't find a replacement from the usual places any ideas where I can get one ?
Regards
Ron