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ronhatch

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  1. ronhatch

    boot stay

    Thanks Stuart, is it critical in the position or is there some forgiveness ? I didn't know what it was because it came with all the bits I acquired with the car so I'm going to have to bolt it on. Regards Ron
  2. ronhatch

    boot stay

    Hi All, I have a body bracket for the telescopic boot stay but don't know the location, could someone post a photo with a tape measure for reference of this item please. Regards Ron
  3. ronhatch

    Boot seal

    Thanks Tim, I'll try that Regards Ron
  4. ronhatch

    Boot seal

    Hi All, I have a boot seal from rimmers but it doesn't let my boot close, It's ok at the top and sides but at the bottom edge I can't get it near the lock (ok without the seal) the seal is an h shape and is quite rigid, thoughts please. Regards Ron
  5. ronhatch

    Wiring

    Hi Ian, I have found your article Cheers Ron
  6. ronhatch

    Wiring

    Hi Bob, Thanks for the info, I wondered why the ammeter wouldn't work ! Cheers Ron
  7. ronhatch

    Wiring

    Hi all , thanks for the replies, The plug in has a alternator plug on one end with a large and a small brown wire and a small yellow and brown, at the other end the 2 browns are connected to a copper washer and I have connected these to the battery side of the solenoid, the small yellow and brown I have connected to the small yellow and brown by the old control box. I have used the control box as a cable junction as per diagrams posted on this site. I did assume that the 2 "spare" wires were for the old alternator just by their location on the new loom (I didn't take the car apart ) I do have a wiring diagram for the TR4 and TR4a Rodger, but from your post it seems I will get some more info from the TR6 diagram. I will obtain one asap. Once again, thanks for the replies always a great help Regards
  8. ronhatch

    Wiring

    Hi all, I have converted my tr4 to an alternator and I have used the appropriate plug in wiring. I now have 2 wires, a large yellow and brown and a small green and brown redundant, do I just tape these up or can they be used for something else ? Regards Ron
  9. ronhatch

    Radiators

    Cheers mick, mine is leaking from the core and also the neck joint which is obviously a weak point and is one of the reason I was thinking of the other type. Regards Ron
  10. ronhatch

    Radiators

    Hi all, My radiator is leaking, should I go for a recore or a brand new one ? It is the old long necked radiator so it would look original but the main priority is cooling and reliability. I will be fitting an electric fan and thermostat. Regards Ron
  11. ronhatch

    electrics

    Hi Rich, I did remove all the guts of the regulator but thanks for the thought. I will take the alternator off today and test all the diodes pete but I did notice last night that the module in the new electronic ignition was clicking as I made and unmade the battery connection, any thoughts ? Regards Ron
  12. ronhatch

    electrics

    Hi all, I have just done a diode test and it only registers one way so it would appear to be OK. I bought it off ebay ages ago and it was the one advised for the TR4, can't find the paperwork so I will check which one it is tomorrow. If the alternator is getting warm would it point to a parasitic draw ? Regards Ron
  13. ronhatch

    electrics

    Hi Rodger, thanks for the reply. I did get the technical detail and like others I am just using the old control box to link wires ( A1-A-D ). The battery/alternator current would, I assumed, be controlled by the diode bank in the alternator. When I initially started it by accident the alternator was not connected via the plug and it ran for as long as it took me to get from the engine bay to the ignition switch to turn it off. After plugging in I have tested the alternator current and it is delivering voltage to the battery. could the initial brief start up affect the diode bank ? Regards Ron
  14. ronhatch

    electrics

    Hi All, after an enforced lay off from rebuilding my TR4 I finally made sense of the electrics ( sort of ) got the petrol through, and after 45 years it started first time. This was a bit of a surprise as I had only meant to crank it via the solenoid to get some oil in the pots but I had left the ignition on. After the initial shock and some panic ( it was in gear although up on stands ) I had a stupid smile on my gob. After playing around with stopping and starting it to make sure it wasn't a fluke I set about tuning it. I then had to take off the battery lead which was when I noticed a small spark. after eliminating everything I discovered the the new alternator was getting warm by draining power from the battery. I checked all my wiring including the alteration to the control box and all was in order although I had previously noted that the lead to the alternator plug had a small and large brown wire and a small brown and yellow wire, there is also a (spare) large brown and yellow and a small brown and green taped together. I bought the loom from moss or rimmers and specified the alternator variant. Whats wrong ? Any help would be great. (still got a smile on my gob though ) Regards Ron
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