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Everything posted by ronhatch

  1. Thanks for the reply Rodger, did triumph fit a smaller size of iron fitting as I have 2 heads with different size irons and a 3rd one ( the original one) with the smaller iron fitting and an adapter/reducer to suit the valve, curious but not the first time with triumph Regards Ron
  2. Hi Graham, Thanks for the reply. The iron bend on my head has a smaller diameter thread than the heater control valve, the original head has a reducer from the valve to the iron bend but I couldn't use that head, the one I used has the iron bend but no reducer, I am loathe to swap them in case they shear and cause more problems as the head is now attached. My other TR4 has the iron bend with the correct thread to take the valve, it may be an earlier version but the thread is smaller, can anybody enlighten me ? Regards Ron
  3. Hi all , can anyone tell me what are the sizes of the reducer between the heater spigot on the TR4 head and the heater valve or the part number, I can only see the long one in the catalogues. Regards Ron
  4. Hi all, I am replacing all the seals on my TR4 overdrive, there doesn't appear to be a seal for the brake ring, is this just a liquid sealant ? Regards Ron
  5. ronhatch


    Cheers Stuart, I found a photo and the earlier number is the correct box for the TR4, but thanks for the reply, I'm going to open it up to inspect and replace all the seals. Regards Ron
  6. ronhatch


    Hi all, I'm currently rebuilding a TR4 and I have a TR4A to start in a later life, both have O/D gearboxes but they have been that long in the shed that I forget which belongs to which and I want to match the original with its own car. The TR4 is 1962 and the A is 1966 the gear boxes are numbered C (Maybe G)T 3511 and GR81574 , logic says that the 3511 is the earlier box but Triumph had that many configurations it was confusing so I hope there is an oracle out there who can help . Regards Ron
  7. Hi Kevin,thanks for the reply, I decided to take it all apart rather than a*se about and try a quick fix of just trying to tighten the pinch bolt. On the bench I could see the ends were bent about a bit but I noticed at the front side was a slight bend in the metal (obvious now I actually looked at it properly ) which would reduce the hole to allow just the inner cable through. Blowlamp , a bit of bending, jobs a goodun. Regards Ron
  8. Hi All, I have got to constantly adjust the choke cable outer sleeve as it always slips through the cable retaining clamp (aue55 in the rimmer book), has anyone got a solution to this problem ? Regards Ron
  9. Thanks for the photos Peter they explained the problem clearly. Cheers Ron
  10. I ordered new bolts from rimmers which arrived today and they screw in quite easily and don't bind, I will check tomorrow though. Looks like I will have to hunt down a pair of brackets, anyone got any ? Regards Ron
  11. Hi Peter, It looks like I have the Type B brackets and the smaller disc, If I change the brackets will I be able to use the 16p calipers ? Regards Ron
  12. Hi Peter, the discs are 10 13/16, it was the first thing I checked Regards Ron
  13. Hi all, I am rebuilding an early TR4 with the early front suspension setup, when I bought the "project" it did not have the front brake calipers, no problem I thought I have a spare pair of 16Ps . Having refurbished them I attempted to install them today they don't fit ! the dimension from the bolt holes to where they sit above the disc edge is too small ! I assume that the mounting setup is for an earlier B type caliper does this have a bigger dimension ? Frustrating but a good excuse for a calming beer Regards Ron
  14. Are the bearings easy to change ?
  15. Hi all, I was tootling along yesterday, top down, cap on (bald head), enjoying the sunshine when I heard an ominous rumble. A few months ago the bolts on the propshaft had come loose and it sounded very similar to that. I put it up on the stands and checked but the bolts were tight. I then put the car in gear and turned the rear wheel and heard a slight noise from the gearbox, it was the same noise throughout all the gears so I assume it is wear on the main shaft ? The car drives well apart from this noise any ideas ? Regards Ron
  16. Thanks for the replies chaps, it is the square section seal as you said Stuart apparently girling don't like you splitting them because of H and S concerns, I have seen an article which states 70 on the big bolts and 40 on the small ones . Maybe that's why the angry shop gentleman was kicking off, or did he see a fee disappearing ? Regards Ron
  17. Hi all, where can I get the o-ring for the P16 caliper on a TR4 ? all the rebuild kits don't seem to supply them. Regards Ron
  18. Hi Peter, I put everything back together an the movement in the shaft has been cured as you said, probably to much time on my hands and overthinking the job Regards Ron
  19. Hi Peter , thanks for the reply, the flange is off and the seal is out and there is slight movement of the shaft, I was going to take out the half shafts anyway to renew the seals as they are the originals. do I need special tools to remove the diff and replace the bearing ? I will probably do as you suggest and put the seal and the flange back and the assess the movement and then decide. Regards Ron
  20. Its a girling axle by the way
  21. Hi all, I was replacing the oil seal on the diff and noticed a slight wear in the front bearing, is this difficult to replace ? will I have to take out the diff assembly ? or just live with the possibility of a slight oil leak at a later stage ? my mileage is very low. The tub is off so access is easy. Regards Ron
  22. Cheers Mick, As I said this was the way I originally intended to proceed and I think I will stick to the plan, it will look as made and the original rack is in good nick. Time to dust off the welder. Cheers all for the replies Ron
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