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Everything posted by ronhatch

  1. Thanks for the photos Peter they explained the problem clearly. Cheers Ron
  2. I ordered new bolts from rimmers which arrived today and they screw in quite easily and don't bind, I will check tomorrow though. Looks like I will have to hunt down a pair of brackets, anyone got any ? Regards Ron
  3. Hi Peter, It looks like I have the Type B brackets and the smaller disc, If I change the brackets will I be able to use the 16p calipers ? Regards Ron
  4. Hi Peter, the discs are 10 13/16, it was the first thing I checked Regards Ron
  5. Hi all, I am rebuilding an early TR4 with the early front suspension setup, when I bought the "project" it did not have the front brake calipers, no problem I thought I have a spare pair of 16Ps . Having refurbished them I attempted to install them today they don't fit ! the dimension from the bolt holes to where they sit above the disc edge is too small ! I assume that the mounting setup is for an earlier B type caliper does this have a bigger dimension ? Frustrating but a good excuse for a calming beer Regards Ron
  6. Are the bearings easy to change ?
  7. Hi all, I was tootling along yesterday, top down, cap on (bald head), enjoying the sunshine when I heard an ominous rumble. A few months ago the bolts on the propshaft had come loose and it sounded very similar to that. I put it up on the stands and checked but the bolts were tight. I then put the car in gear and turned the rear wheel and heard a slight noise from the gearbox, it was the same noise throughout all the gears so I assume it is wear on the main shaft ? The car drives well apart from this noise any ideas ? Regards Ron
  8. Thanks for the replies chaps, it is the square section seal as you said Stuart apparently girling don't like you splitting them because of H and S concerns, I have seen an article which states 70 on the big bolts and 40 on the small ones . Maybe that's why the angry shop gentleman was kicking off, or did he see a fee disappearing ? Regards Ron
  9. Hi all, where can I get the o-ring for the P16 caliper on a TR4 ? all the rebuild kits don't seem to supply them. Regards Ron
  10. Hi Peter, I put everything back together an the movement in the shaft has been cured as you said, probably to much time on my hands and overthinking the job Regards Ron
  11. Hi Peter , thanks for the reply, the flange is off and the seal is out and there is slight movement of the shaft, I was going to take out the half shafts anyway to renew the seals as they are the originals. do I need special tools to remove the diff and replace the bearing ? I will probably do as you suggest and put the seal and the flange back and the assess the movement and then decide. Regards Ron
  12. Its a girling axle by the way
  13. Hi all, I was replacing the oil seal on the diff and noticed a slight wear in the front bearing, is this difficult to replace ? will I have to take out the diff assembly ? or just live with the possibility of a slight oil leak at a later stage ? my mileage is very low. The tub is off so access is easy. Regards Ron
  14. Cheers Mick, As I said this was the way I originally intended to proceed and I think I will stick to the plan, it will look as made and the original rack is in good nick. Time to dust off the welder. Cheers all for the replies Ron
  15. Thanks for the photo Ian, I did keep the old stanchions from the original chassis with the intention of using them but it seemed more trouble to hack off the original mountings and bracing from the replacement chassis rather than change the rack, any thoughts on the pros and cons ? Regards Ron
  16. Hi all, I am replacing the chassis on my new TR4 project, the old one was shot to s--t and so I purchased a good used one, the old one had the steering rack mounted vertically and the new one has the rack mounted horizontally. I know I will have to change the rack but is there anything else I need to change ? the wishbone arms are the earlier type and would appear to fit but should I use this opportunity to change to the later wishbone and ball joint assembly assuming this was deemed an improvement ? and if so would this necessitate further changes @ Regards Ron Hatch
  17. Hi Stuart, if the old rack needs to be longer because it is mounted higher does that mean if I use a later chassis and a later rack to suit it wont need the inner rods changing ? Regards Ron
  18. Hi Stuart, thanks for the reply, is this the part that the track rod ends screw on to ? part number 128023 in the rimmers book ? Regards Ron
  19. Hi all, on my new rebuild (mark 2, productivity is up this year ) I scrapped the old early chassis as it was full of rust and I picked up a good late tr4 chassis, I intend to use all the old running gear but I need to change the steering rack which I have obtained. I read about the different lengths and when compared side by side the later one is shorter, can I use the old pin and balls so that it is compatible with the old steering gear ? Regards Ron
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