Nigel Triumph
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Posts posted by Nigel Triumph
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Hi Colin,
I bought the new solenoid from Rimmers, all the other usual suppliers are currently out of stock. The solenoid is made by Bastuck and looks to be of good quality. I also obtained the necessary O-rings from Canley, and will service the old solenoid then keep as a spare. I have two J-type equipped cars, the GT6 and the Scimitar GTE, so it's bound to come in handy one day!
And yes, the special spanner is essential, as the jaws any normal open-end 1" AF spanner are too thick to fit. Don't be tempted to try gripping the solenoid body with pliers or Mole wrench, damage is likely. Be prepared for a little oil loss when pulling the solenoid out, about half a cupful came out from mine and went on to rust proof the chassis.
Nigel
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51 minutes ago, Mk2 Chopper said:
Once it fires up do you immediately push the choke lever back in around half way?
Just to confirm that your vacuum pipe is fitted between the throttle bodies and the MU? If it is you could try a test to make sure the diaphragm is OK in the MU by taking that same pipe off the throttle body and suck on it and the press your tongue in the hole to see if it holds that pressure. The diaphragm is what changes the fuel amount (mixture) when you open the throttle.
Gareth
Following Gareth's train of thought, were both vacuum hoses connected when attempting to start (to metering unit and brake servo)? Can't see them in you pics. It's essential both are connected to achieve the expected manifold vacuum, so the MU can fuel correctly.
Nigel
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Follow up time...
I've dealt with the solenoid problem on the J type overdrive on my GT6. Due to lack of time and a burning desire not to remove the tunnel cover again, I fitted a new solenoid rather than renew the O rings on the old one. After a 25 mile A road test run with plenty of overdrive use, the problem sticking when hot seems to be cured.
I suspect new O rings in the old solenoid would have done the job but didn't want to take the chance. It's on the shelf as a spare now.
Nigel
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35 minutes ago, Mk2 Chopper said:
He also comments on aftermarket linkage and how they are inferior to the original set up here.
Gareth
That is exactly what I found with aftermarket link rods.
Nigel
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4 minutes ago, PodOne said:
Hi John
Have you considered contacting. https://fredmillturnparts.com/parts-list-and-ordering/?fbclid=IwAR18wQ_hKEXBb_ux-Q7vDhjQ8NA4RXuqUVviI1FcrysRo3pv-rd8bwgy21o Bound to have every thing you need along with improvements for a lot less. No connection to me but a nice guy to deal with.
Andy
+ 1
I've fitted Fred Millturn throttle link rods to my CP series 6. Excellent kit.
Nigel
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28 minutes ago, rcreweread said:
David - £196 for CD's moulded and veneered door cappings is a very good price and you are baulking at it!!! TR Shop used to charge £345 ( don't know what they charge now) and the other suppliers similar or more - I think the vinyl ones are not that different in price either.
In my humble opinion, there is no contest between the two types - the wood ones really do set off the interior and worth every penny, and more even at full price
Cheers Rich
Each to their own, but I agree with Rich and am very pleased with the CD wooden door cappings on my 6.
Nigel
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I like pinstripes on a TR6, have a red stripe on my Triumph White car.
Nigel
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On 5/15/2022 at 12:21 PM, c.hydes said:
Thanks Nigel, I look forward to hearing your findings, please let us know the results.
Colin.
Will do, probably next week.
Nigel
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1 hour ago, c.hydes said:
I will be very interested in the outcome of your replacement O rings in the solenoid Ian. I have a similar problem on my TR6 except in does not engage when things get hot and only engages if left switched off for a while, but then fails to switch on/off if energized for a while.
It seems to be relatively easy if you buy the 1 inch special spanner, when a you proposing to do this?
Regards, Colin.
I will try the O ring replacement 'cheap fix' in the next week or two. If it doesn't work, I will be fitting a new solenoid.
Nigel
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J type solenoids can also stick, and from experience this seems more likely when hot.
The solenoid on the J type O/D in my GT6 tends to stick in the engaged position when hot. I'm going to try replacing the O ring seals on its piston, inexpensive fix compared to a new solenoid... if it works of course!
Nigel
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Okay, but when the backlash is in the diff, it's unusual for it to be one side only, that's why I asked about half shafts. Hoping someone more knowledgeable will be along soon.
Nigel
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Ooh, I like the look of that. Where did you buy it? Please could goy share a link?
Nigel
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Good idea, I will try similar in TR6 end GT6.
Nigel
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Are you absolutely certain the play is in the diff and not the half shaft, UJs or splines?
Nigel
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Sounds interesting, I would also appreciate seeing a photo.
Nigel
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37 minutes ago, Andy Moltu said:
The composite gaskets have a lacquer coating to make the seal.
Some also have a bead of sealant material on the gasket.
Either way no need to use additional sealant on the composite gaskets.
However there may be a case for a bead of silicone on the area of the gasket outside of the pushrods which isn't well compressed by the head studs, especially after minor warping over the years. Not important for sealingthe bores or water jacket but minimises the annoying oil leaks on that side of the engine. (This can be done on the 6 pots too)
Copper gaskets are a different matter!
+1
Sealant around the push rod tube side of the head to make certain it's oil tight. Other than that, composite gaskets don't need sealing compounds.
Nigel
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Well done Jon. As for a GT6, they're cracking little cars but beware, you and your wife may end up fighting for the keys!
Nigel
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TRGB sell individual brake pipes and list the flex hose to caliper pipes. It's part number CBPCAL/I for imperial or /M for metric, essential to get the correct threads for your calipers.
Nigel
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Sticky speedo drive cable or failing angle drive are common culprits.
Nigel
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A properly set up Lucas PI system works fine, in fact it's a joy to drive, and keeps the car original. As stated, sorting out the existing PI system will be cheaper than converting to Webers. The Webers will probably need setting up on a rolling road to give their best.
No question what I would do!
Nigel
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+1
I bought +20 thou County pistons from Chris Witor for a 2.5 litre saloon engine I built for my GT6 a few years ago. The machinist who rebored the block followed the same clearance spec John mentions above. He also said the 6 pistons were remarkably consistent in their dimensions.
The engine runs very well and has so far clocked up about 3,000 trouble free miles.
Nigel
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I've been using NGK BUR6ET or Bosch WR78 in several Triumph sixes, standard and tuned, including my near standard CP series TR6. In my experience over more than 10 years, these multielectrode plugs give better starting, smoother idling and crisper pick up than single electrode NGK or Champion.
Nigel
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Happy birthday Wayne, have a great day!
Nigel
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F1
in Social Scene
1 hour ago, Ian Vincent said:Tito Wolff probably lost his cool because his team had made a sound tactical decision based on the rules before Mike Masi decided to ignore them. Nothing to do with them making the wrong call. In the situation they found themselves in they had little alternative. And Christian Horner’s response to Masi’s original and swiftly changed decision supports the view that without the rules being changed MB would have won.
Rgds Ian
Another +1 from me.
Nigel
Rebuilt engine won’t start
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Well done, hope the inevitable snagging list isn't too long.
Nigel