Nigel Triumph
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Posts posted by Nigel Triumph
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Years ago Malcolm Jones at Prestige told me that adjustment of the PRV is critical, and only achievable with a proper test rig including an accurate pressure gauge... So I did as he suggested and bought a reconditioned exchange PRV from him when I fitted a Bosch pump conversion.
As Waldi says, it's a good idea to leave this job to a specialist.
Nigel
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3 hours ago, monty said:
After all the recent forum talk regarding rear hubs/driveshafts on IRS cars I would not want to trust anything that has been cut down etc.
Agree
CDD hubs and shafts were the way forward, very well engineered.
Nigel
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The feed to the rockers comes up through a drilling in the rear left corner of the block, from the rear camshaft journal.
There's a matching drilling in the cylinder head, so oil to the rockers does indeed need to pass through the head gasket. I'm not sure how the gasket could be fitted wrong to block the feed, they are marked to show which way up they should go.
Other possible blockages could be dirt, misaligned cam bearings (if fitted) and incorrect assembly of the rocker shaft components. All these errors would require a ham-fisted approach to engine assembly.
There are also blanking plugs in the ends of the rocker shaft. If those were omitted the oil would dribble out of the ends of the shaft without reaching the rockers themselves.
Nigel
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Thank you chaps. I had a great day yesterday with family, including my 6 month old granddaughter. Topped off the day with a blast in the evening sunshine in the TR6 then caught up with the action from Silverstone. Good to see Lewis on the podium.
Nigel
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Think you mean rear wheel cylinder bore. Should be 0.7'' on all TR6s. See the information on Revington's site:
https://www.revingtontr.com/product/gwc1154/name/rear-wheel-cyl-tr4-6-07-with-bleed-nipple
Nigel
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5 hours ago, Mike C said:
NGK BUR 6ET's- they're expensive but they give me far easier starting.
+1
Multi electrode plugs, NGK BUR6ET or Bosch WR78. Better starting, smoother idle, resistant to fouling and last forever (almost).
What's not to like!?
Nigel
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15 years after fitting a Phoenix tubular manifold, the standard starter motor fitted before I bought my TR6 20 years ago still works fine!
Nigel
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I would also suggest Phoenix. Their 6-3-1 manifold fits and seems to give a bit of a boost to mid-range torque, plus a nice exhaust beat.
Phoenix were helpful in supplying the bits needed to link up all the pipes on my TR6. That was 15 years ago and I'm still pleased with their manifold.
Nigel
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10 hours ago, Z320 said:
Hi Nigel,
sorry me, I don’t use pads, I use shims made of stainless steel.
I guess I know why they really advice for adhesive pads.
Ciao, Marco
Thank you Marco, that's clear now!
Nigel
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On 6/5/2022 at 5:58 PM, Nigel Triumph said:
+1
I use Mintex 1144 on my TR6 and GT6, wouldn't fit anything else now. Good pedal feel, very resistant to fade. They can squeal sometimes, fitting the adhesive foam backing pads supplied with the brake pads should stop the squealing.
Important to bed in the pads according to the Mintex instructions, also supplied in the box.
Nigel
Here you are Marco, advice to use the anti squeal pads supplied by Mintex.
Nigel
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Lovely car, well done for getting her home safely. Thorough cleaning after the trip will be a great way to get to know her better, a job you're bound to enjoy!
Nigel
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Sorry to see that Ian. If it wasn't for bad luck, you wouldn't have any luck at all with this engine.
This was a new engine as I recall, with a hot cam and triple Weber DCOEs. I agree that you will need to pull the engine to investigate the extent of the damage and rectify. The biggest question is why did it happen? Without knowing why, there is clearly a real danger it could happen again.
You know I like to ask questions!
- How many miles had the engine done since it was built?
- What running in regime did you use?
- How were carbs set up? Could the mixture have been weak?
- Could there be air leaks on the induction runs to the affected cylinders?
- Ignition timing, how much static advance and what was total advance including centrifugal or mapped advance curve?
I would be inclined, after repairing the engine, to run it in for at least 250 miles then go for a rolling road session to optimise fuel and ignition settings.
Good luck, please let us know what you find.
Nigel
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2 minutes ago, iani said:
No sign of any mayo Nigel, coolant & Oil levels are correct
Then I would drive some more and see if it clears.
Nigel
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I believe originally the camshaft bearings were specified for Spitfire Mk3. For 6 cylinder engines, various suppliers stick them e.g. Chris Witor:
https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=CSB6274
Nigel
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Not thoughts but questions first....
- is the engine running normally in other respects? Oil pressure? Water temp? Performance?
- are there any traces of water and oil mixing, in the radiator, the sump or mayo in the rocker cover?
If the vital signs are normal and there's no sign of oil and water mixing, I would drive it again, get it thoroughly warmed up over a run of 50 miles plus. Then check all of the above again. If the smoke has gone, happy days... If not, further investigation will be necessary.
Just my views, I will be interested to see what others suggest.
Nigel
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4 hours ago, tim hunt said:
Would not T-Cut have done the same job?
Tim
T-Cut certainly would do the job, but will also remove some of the lacquer coat. I like the idea of WD40, as it's non-abrasive.
Nigel
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Unlucky... But well spotted!
Nigel
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Good luck Jonny, I hope the car is everything you hope for.
Nigel
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1 minute ago, tim hunt said:
I prefer Ferodo DS Performance pads and source FER 167 from Burton Power - the holes also need enlarging to suit the earlier imperial caliper pins. In the past I found EBC green stuff useless and Mintex 1144s squealed very badly, particularly in light use, a positive embarassment around town! This is completely absent with the DS Performance pads, they give excellent bite from cold, a progressive pedal and in fast road use I have never experienced fade, even over Alpine passes on Club Triumph Ten Countries Runs.
Tim
Thank you for the tip. Sounds like the Ferodo pads have all the positive attributes of M1144, without the squeal.
Nigel
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I've used ACF Howell in Walsall, no hesitation to recommend their work:
Nigel
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The Mintylamb site has several useful guides and calculators. If you put all the details for your Triumph into this page, or should answer your question:
http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/gearspeed/
Nigel
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Here's a link to the instructions on the Mintex website:
https://mintex.com/bedding-procedure/?lang=en-gbr
Nigel
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23 hours ago, Andy Moltu said:
In terms of which compound of Mintex I would suggest the 1144 - excellent bite and good fade resistance for road use.
Searching for Mintex MGB 633 1144 will find many sources. The holes are likely to be too small for the pins but that’s just a matter of running a suitable sized drill to enlarge them. The 633s are common fitments on Fords and others so lots of suppliers.
+1
I use Mintex 1144 on my TR6 and GT6, wouldn't fit anything else now. Good pedal feel, very resistant to fade. They can squeal sometimes, fitting the adhesive foam backing pads supplied with the brake pads should stop the squealing.
Important to bed in the pads according to the Mintex instructions, also supplied in the box.
Nigel
non-TR: Life's ambition realised
in General TR Technical
Posted
Hi Tim,
Glad you enjoyed the feature.
Nigel