Nigel Triumph
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Posts posted by Nigel Triumph
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Beware, not all speedo cables are the same. Some suppliers have cheapies, imported from wherever - I bought one where the knurled connection to the angle drive had an incorrect thread. Speedy Cables in S.Wales still make up new ones to the original pattern, so they fitted properly. No connection - just a satisfied customer.
Nigel
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One other point to watch. Occasionally Spitfire/GT6 check straps are supplied as suitable for TR's. They are not interchangeable and will allow the door to open a fraction too far. The Spit strap has a smooth curve, whereas the TR version is more like an 'S' shaped curve.
Nigel
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Thank you Ian.
I'll give that a try and let you know how I get on.
Nigel
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Hi,
I've bled the brakes on the 7 and while under the bonnet, found the brake warning light switch was U/S, showing open-circuit whether the pin was in or out. With a new switch fitted, the warning light stays on, suggesting the pressure differential shuttle needs to be centred. I've tried this by opening alternate brake circuit's bleed nipples and pressing the pedal. When I had the same problem on a Stag a few years ago, re-centring seemed easy, with a slight click as the shuttle moved into its correct location.
The 7 is more difficult. The shuttle seems reluctant to move and so the warning light wont't go out. I've two questions:
1. Should the warning light switch be removed when centring the shuttle, as it is for brake bleeding?
2. Any tips for how to get the shuttle to move to its central position?
Many thanks for any advice.
Nigel
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One possible (probable?) cause of play in the rear hub is the six studs that secure hub assembly to suspension arm. Surprisingly, Triumph chose a 5/16" UNF thread to mount into the cast alloy suspension arm. Needless to say these can strip very easily. To compound the problem, the TR6 workshop manual doesn't specify a torque setting, though for the same application on the Stag, the low setting of 16ft/lbs is recommended. A higher torque could easily damage the soft alloy threads.
If this turns out to be the problem with your car, modified studs are available with the original 5/16" UNF at the hub end, and 3/8" UNC thread into the suspension arm. The holes into the suspension arm will need to be drilled and tapped 3/8" UNC of course. I believe these studs are available from Alistair at http://www.powersteeringforclassiccars.co.uk/, others as well no doubt. No connection other than I'm a satisfied customer for his uprated drive shafts.
Nigel
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Bridgestone for me. Grip in the dry, grip in the wet and very hard wearing on my TR6 and on GT6 (but smaller size of course).
Nigel
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It's unusual to find oil in the water without the oil being similarly contaminated with water.
It could perhaps be the oilway to the rockers through the head gasket leaking. This isn't uncommon but usually the oil leaks out from the rear left corner of the head joint and runs down the back of the block, not into a water way. Any trace of oil leakage there?
I would be inclined to do a compression test. If all readings are similar and respectably high (I get about 150psi on my CP series engine) it's unlikely there's a major head gasket failure. In that case, I would try flushing the cooling system and refilling to see if the problem recurs. To save the cost of anti-freeze, you could temporarily refill with water until you know if oil is definitely still getting into the coolant. Don't forget to add antifreeze later if the water remains clean!
Good luck,
Nigel
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I found a similar improvement fitting new injectors to my 6 a few years ago. If bleeding is a problem (and sometimes it is), try the following:
- Plugs out.
- Disconnect power from coil.
- Choke full out (this maximises the fuel delivery from the metering unit).
- Remove injectors from manifold and hold up high, so fuel lines are near vertical, with tips pointing into a suitable container.
- Ask an assistant to spin the engine over on the starter until fuel sprays from injectors.
Good luck,
Nigel
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Hi Jas,
I've used a silicone gasket on my GT6 in the past because under-bonnet clearance is very tight with an alloy valve cover. Over time (about 18 months from memory), the silicone gasket distorted and started to pop out from the corners of the cover, even with moderate clamping pressure.
Now I'm using a thin cork gasket from Rimmers, which seems to have better dimensional stability and seals well.
On my TR6 I've always stuck with the original style thick cork gasket.
Hope this experience is helpful.
Nigel
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I had random up/down movement on one headlight with my 7. Cleaning the connectors as John suggests is definitely the first step. If that doesn't work, you may need to look at the actuator motors. Sometimes adjusting the length of the operating rod (connects motor arm to headlight pod) will help. In the end, I had to replace the motor unit on mine.
A word on safety... Even with ignition off the headlights can pop up and down unexpectedly, so to avoid trapped fingers always disconnect the battery before working on the actuator mechanism.
Good luck,
Nigel
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I have Harrington stainless bumpers on my 6. They are well made, decent thickness as mentioned above and look great. One point worth considering... When seen beside chrome, the polished stainless surface has a very slightly yellow hue whereas by contrast the original chrome has a slightly blue appearance.
This is not noticeable when stainless is seen on its own but personally, I wouldn't mix a stainless bumper with chrome overriders as the difference in hue will be visible. My suggestion would be to bite the bullet and change the whole lot.
Nigel
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Chris Turner knows a lot more than most about TR7 & 8, so his view is always worth listening to. Don't think it's been mentioned yet but the ACG comm number relates to an 8 valve TR7. Genuine factory Sprints have ACH series numbers.
Nigel
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I have exactly the same dilemma about whether to rebuild the engine on my GT6. It's covered a similar mileage at 110k though oil pressure is a little low (struggles to hit the specified minimum 40psi at 2,000rpm when hot), burns a bit of oil and mechanically sounds a little noisier than my TR6 engine. Using Millers 20/60 oil helps with oil pressure and it's a bit quieter but its nearly twice the price of Halfords Classic 20/50, But the little GT still goes as well as ever, so what to do?
I'm inclined to do a light, low cost rebuild soon (new rings with honed bores, new bearing shells and thrust washers, new oil pump, new timing chain) and hope for another 50-60,000 miles of good service. The alternative is to wait until it's really tired and face the expense of rebore, new pistons, crank grind, new everything. I don't fancy that because of the cost and also, where's the pleasure in driving the car when the engine is gradually dying.
So when time allows, I'm going the "light rebuild.refresh" route with the GT6 engine.
Nigel
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Hi,
Assuming your is a UK specification car, this diagram should help:
http://www.wedgeparts.com/d81t7gb.gif
It's a bit fuzzy but should help. Alternatively, the Haynes manual for the TR7 contains wiring diagrams for most models including 1981 (both UK and US versions).
Hope this helps,
Nigel
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My 7 Sprint has no rubber on the throttle pedal (but no guarantee there couldn't have been one originally). Also, can't see one listed on Rimmer Bros site.
Nigel
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Triumph quoted power figures were (I think):
- TR6 CP-series: 150bhp (though 135 is probably more realistic).
- Dolly Sprint: 128bhp.
- TR7 Sprint factory version: 135bhp (extra power due to superior exhaust manifold).
TR6 kerb weight is 1,130Kg and TR7 Sprint 1,050Kg, so the 7 Sprint may just have the edge on power to weight ratio but not by much. My 6 will be having a rolling road session in a couple of weeks so then I will know if it's really making as much power as it should.
There may be some other explanations why my impression is there's little to choose between performance ofthe 6 and 7 Sprint. Although it seems to run well, the 7 needs a tune up and perhaps will feel quicker after that. The speedo in the 7 under-reads by about 5mph at 60 so that could make it feel slower than it is. Also my 6 is fitted with electronic ignition, K&N air filter and a Phoenix 6-3-1 exhaust so may produce a few more horses than Triumph intended.
Oh, and I didn't reply to Jo's question about Harrogate. My TR6 and GT6 have both been to past IWE's, so it's a definite YES, I plan to bring the 7 Sprint to Harrogate for IWE 2014.
Nigel
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Hi All,
Thank you the words of welcome and kind words about my new wedge. I described it as scruffy because it's been resprayed to a rather average standard (though it was white from new) and the paint is not perfect, with a few stone ships turning to star crazed marks, and a couple of places where it's been attacked by brake fluid or similar. Inside the seat covers have torn and all needs a good clean. The mohair hood is nice but needs cleaning and waterproofing. Its a 5 yard car. The good news is that the bodyshell is pretty much rot free and all major mechanicals seem strong.
I wish it was an original Sprint but it's not. There were only 62 pre-production cars made with the Sprint engine and just 20 known to survive now. As far as I know the factory only ever built Sprints as fixed head cars. I consider myself lucky and privileged to have driven Chris Turner's immaculate, factory fresh Sprint.
As for performance vs a 6, I have a 150bhp CP-series 6 and have recently overhauled and set up the injection system so it seems to be running perfectly and should give a fair performance comparison. The two cars feel about the same in terms of acceleration off the line. 0 - 60 times for the 6 are usually quoted at between 8.2 and 8.5 seconds. The only figure I could ever find for the 7 Sprint gave 0 - 60 at 8.5 seconds, comparing to around 10 seconds for the Dolly Sprint saloon if memory serves. So perhaps they are similar in at least acceleration. Power to weight ratio is probably similar.
I don't like that blue cam cover either. Many thanks to Brian for the offer of your NOS item but I feel a rare original like that should be saved for a top class rebuild. My 7 is going to be a rolling improvement project, never a show car. I will try repainting the existing cover but really do appreciate your offer. First things first, the fuel gauge doesn't work and fuel warning light is permanently on, so they are top of the list of jobs.
Nigel
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Yep, braking is, umm... interesting. At least on wet roads today locking up wasn't a worry. I will be looking at an upgrade soon.
Nigel
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Hi All,
I just collected a 1980 TR7 convertible today, fitted with a Sprint engine. Not expensive, drive home was a riot and it's going to be fun improving it over the coming months. With the Sprint engine, all the action is above 4,000rpm but even in the rain, coming down the A5 was a hoot this afternoon. It's a bit scruffy but it seems to go well enough.
Can't wait to go in the garage and get hands on it. I'm not used to the wedge, having a TR6 and GT6, and the 7 Sprint feels as quick off the line as my 6. It's going to be a fascinating learning experience.
Nigel
Now here's something very interesting.......
in TR6 Forum
Posted
My 1970 CP series 6 has the body number tag on the right hand side of the bulkhead, almost behind the clutch master cylinder. That's the original location on my car, as far as I know.
Nigel