Nigel Triumph
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Posts posted by Nigel Triumph
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My TR6 has been running for years with cold oil pressure close to 100psi. Hot, the gauge shows 40psi at tickover and 75psi at 2,000rpm, well above specification.
Over thousands of miles, nothing bad has happened to suggest that oil pressure really is too high. I put the high readings down to an inaccurate gauge.
Nigel
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Thank you Alec,
I will give Rick a call before venturing into the unknown.
Nigel
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I'm guessing a nil response to this post means replacing 5th gear synchro in situ has never been tried. I will have a go and post again to let you know if it is possible.
Nigel
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Pete,
I've never tried roller rockers but have talked to quite a few who have used them on Triumph 6 cylinder engines. There are some roller rockers out there that are prone to cracking. However, I know three owners who have fitted roller rockers from Goodparts in the USA and they have all been fine:
https://www. goodparts.com/
Take extreme care if bidding on secondhand rockers is my advice, you wouldn't want to end up fishing bits out of the sump.
Nigel
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Hi All,
The synchromesh on 5th gear on my TR7 Sprint has stopped working suddenly, so suddenly that I suspect the synchro ring has broken rather than worn out. The gearbox is working fine in other gears, just the nasty crunch when going for 5th at anything more than snail's pace.
I've been told it's possible to change the 5th gear synchro ring without removing the box from the car, and always one to avoid unnecessary work, this sounds much better than having to pull out the box. There's no sign that a total gearbox rebuild is needed.
Have any of the assembled experts here tried replacing the TR7's 5th gear synchro in situ? I imagine with the propshaft and exhaust removed, the gearbox crossmember can be removed and the back of the box lowered on a jack to remove the tailshaft casing. Anyone tried this and able to offer some tips? Or is it just wishful thinking on my part?
Thank you in advance for any advice,
Nigel
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All 3 rings together, and yes, clockwise equals richer.
Nigel
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I set up my PI system on the 6 last year using advice from a Lucas trained service engineer who used to work on 2.5PI jam sandwiches (police cars for those not familiar with UK vernacular in the late Sixties/early Seventies. He always adjusted the M/U mixture to give maximum vacuum.
On my CP series engine, with ignition timing, tappets, fuel pressure, throttle sync and everything set properly, I got 10" Hg at tickover. Adjusting only the largest of the 3 concentric rings on top of the M/U increased vacuum to 12.5" Hg. Tickover was noticeably smoother and performance definitely improved, the air bleed valve could be turned back for a smooth 750rpm tickover. The mixture had been too weak and it needed about 1/2 turn richer on the ring to get the best vacuum. Exhaust now shows 3.5% CO on the MoT tester's calibrated gas analyser and Lambda 0.98, so just about spot on, simply from maximising the vacuum reading.
After setting up like this, I took the car to Aldon's rolling road and it gave 128bhp estimated at flywheel. The best they had seen before was about 120bhp from a standard TR6. Tuning for max vacuum seems to work! By the way, the rolling road session was part of their development of the Amethyst mappable ignition system, as they wanted to get the ideal advance curve to programme into the Amethyst for a TR6. Afterwards, everyday drivability was markedly improved but peak power didn't change. How the Amethyst works and improves on-the-road performance is another story though.
The car goes better through the whole range of revs and throttle openings but of course I can't tell how accurate fuelling is other than at tickover though the Aldon RR session suggested it was OK at full throttle. See the thread I started on fitting a Lambda sensor to the exhaust for metering on the move, could also be relevant. That's the next thing I want to try on my 6. Can Lucas PI work as well as modern EFi? Maybe not but I'm sure if well fettled, it can get close.
Nigel
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Worth noting that some specialists can offer studs with a larger, coarse thread for T/A, much better in the soft alloy casting than the small fine thread Triumph used originally. From memory, these studs are 3/8" UNC into the T/A with the original 5/16" UNF thread for the hub securing nuts.
Sorry I can't help with the jig.
Nigel
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Many thanks to all for your experience and suggestions. You have confirmed my view that AFR measurement under real driving conditions on the road is the way to go. Narrow band looks too limited in the info it can provide, wide band is clearly the way to go. The UEGO kit looks very tempting - something for my Christmas list perhaps.
Nigel
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I'm starting the think about fitting a Lambda sensor to the exhaust of my TR6, with a gauge inside the car so Air/Fuel ratio can be monitored while on the road. There's been a lot of discussion of this topic on the Reliant Scimitar forum and some Scimitar owners have successfully installed Air/Fuel gauges:
http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15432&hilit=lambda
Look for the topic "homemade lambda sensor / probe. It works!!!".
It could be a great way to check fuelling on PI-equipped Triumphs and enable accurate calibration of the metering unit under varying load conditions. A viable alternative to setting up PI fuelling on a rolling road perhaps?
Have any of the assembled experts here any experience of fitting an Air/Fuel ratio gauge to a Triumph PI engine?
Nigel
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Another vote for fibreglass. But watch out, because some tunnel covers from a major supplier don't clear the speedo angle drive properly. If members here have found Racestorations' cover is good then that's the one to buy. I wish I had known this before!
Nigel
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What's the rest of your interior like? Do you have, or plan to have, leather seats? If so, I would go for leather. Otherwise use vinyl to match the rest of the interior.
This leather kit on Ebay looks reasonably priced but I've no experience of what the quality may be like:
Nigel
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Dave Mac Propshafts in Coventry get good reviews on the Scimitar forum I use:
www.davemacprops.com
Nigel
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My vote also goes for the hole at the top of the pedal and the worn clevis pin. I had a similar problem with my GT6 - weld up hole, re-drill and new clevis pin - easy fix. I've never known the original clutch flexible pipe have a problem unless perhaps it's been badly routed, causing it to kink. I've got the original clutch flexi pipes on my TR6, TR7 and a Scimitar, which gets really hot under the bonnet and no problems (yet!).
Nigel
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I try to avoid running my 6 much below 1/4 on the fuel gauge. When the tank gets low (though not empty) the pump starts to suck air causing a misfire. Filling from just below 1/4 on the gauge, around 40 litres will go in, which equates to 8.8 imperial gallons. My fuel consumption figures are similar to yours, though I've seen 32mpg on a 160 miles run to north Wales, which was a combination of M-way at around 70mph (really officer!) and twisty Welsh roads.
In my experience, old fuel gauges never read in a linear fashion. The one in my 6 moves down slowly for the first half from full, and much faster after that. I don't worry about it and accept it as one of the quirks of a 44 year old car.
I hope the above comments are some help.
Nigel
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There are indeed two bolts retaining the distributor. One is fairly easy to undo with a 7/16 AF open end or ring spanner. The other is closer to the cylinder head, half hidden by the inlet manifold and the breather hose from the cam cover. It can be undone using a 7/16 AF socket driven by a wobble extension. Hard to get at and needs a good light. Unfortunately it will be harder still to put back in.
Nigel
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Can do, but not for few days as I'm working away and nearly 200 miles from my 6. Will try to post a photo at the weekend.
Nigel
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Red 6 has given a thorough description of how to fit Securon inertia belts to a TR6. I fitted belts that way nearly 10 years ago, with one exception. The new anchor point for the reel must be reinforced but I used Securon's purpose made plates:
These are made for the purpose and will be stronger than washers. The MoT tester has been perfectly happy with this set up on my car, though fortunately it's never been put to the ultimate test.
Nigel
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The Sprint engine uses a Lucas 44D4 distributor, unlike any of the other Lucas dizzies fitted to other 4 cylinder Triumphs, which normally use 25D4 or 45D4. I don't know how the internals differ but suggest you go to one of the known Triumph specialists for the correct points and condenser. I've used Robsport for ignition parts on my Sprint engined TR7.
The plugs should have 10mm threads.
Good luck,
Nigel
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I have Harrington stainless bumpers on my 6. I'm very pleased with them, fitted well and excellent finish. Wouldn't recommend for concours though, as the polished stainless has a very slightly different colour hue to genuine chrome. But they're great for a smart looking road car that gets used even in the rain!
Nigel
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PM sent.
Nigel
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I had the same problem with the sleeve nuts on the Revolutions on my 6. I ordered 19mm chromed plastic caps from Ebay, look great in my opinion.
Nigel
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Both. But what a username! And only 93% positive feedback.
TR7 prices on the bay are all over the place currently, with up to £14k being asked. Can a 7 really be worth so much?
Nigel
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+1 for 2-stroke oil. My theory (untested) is that it will lubricate the PI metering unit.
Nigel
High oil pressure
in TR6 Forum
Posted
With your ownership of the car from new, and no previous incidence of high oil pressure, I think the gauge is less likely as an explanation. My advice would be to go back to the previous make of oil filter ASAP, as the filter seems to be only factor that's changed in the equation. It's not probable that the gauge would suddenly become inaccurate.
Nigel