Nigel Triumph
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Posts posted by Nigel Triumph
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I'm looking for an easier way to lift the car than trolley jack and axle stands. More ground clearance would also be a benefit. My back isn't getting any younger!
Has anyone here got any experience of this type of lifting device?
Less expensive than a hydraulic car lift, and many of the affordable lifts don't give great access to the centre line under the car. £400 plus delivery seems a bit steep but combined with heavy duty axles stands it could be a more cost effective option than a full lifting device.
Any opinions from the assembled experts here would be most welcome.
Nigel
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I've fitted Classic Driving Development uprated drive shafts to my 6, very pleased with them.
Nigel
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Correct, an inertia cut out wasn't fitted as standard to early cars. I've fitted one from a Stag to my 1970 CP-series 6.
Nigel
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As an industrial research chemist many years ago, in the field of polymers used for paint and adhesives, several times I developed improved products by simply changing the reagents/ingredients in a systematic manner and noting the effect on product performance. Some of these experiments led to markedly improved products and I could hypothesise why this might be, but could never prove it on a molecular level.
Some of these new products went on to major commercial success, as binders for masonry paints and as packaging adhesives. This combination of experimental rigour and a bit of serendipity could be how the benefits of ZDDP were discovered 70 years ago.
I was also party to some polymer development projects, where the 'big science' capability of an international conglomerate's research facility were applied to the development of an improved adhesive for ceramic tiles. Big science merely showed why the existing adhesives worked well but failed to improve the breed.
Ramblings from an applied chemist!
Nigel
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To know that something works, it's not necessary to know how it works. Proven effect, under different conditions over the years has proved that ZDDP works as a friction/wear reducing additive.
But it's great when the theory catches up and we can understand how it works.
I'm going to keep using ZDDP-containing 20W/50 in my 6, and now I've some idea why I'm using it!
Nigel
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6J is normally fine but may just need 6mm spacers on the front, depending on the rim chosen. My 6 runs 6J Revolutions with spacers at the front and 195/65-15 tyres, which give almost identical rolling radius to the original, so gearing and speedo accuracy aren't affected.
Nigel
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I tried one of these pumps today to do an oil change on my GT6. Took the car for a drive first to warm and thin the old 20/50 then tried the pump.
After 10 minutes about a pint of oil had come out, so I gave up and pulled the sump plug. Maybe the pump works with thinner modern engine oils but I estimate it won't pump out a gallon of warm 20/50 in much less than an hour. The instructions say not to run it continuously for more than 30 minutes. There's also the issue of how much old oil remains in the sump when the pump has sucked out as much as it can pick up - but I never reached that point.
So in my experience, it's no good for classic engine oil changes. Maybe it's possible to pump out the smaller volume in a diff but it would have to be warm first. As for filling gearboxes and diffs, I'm sticking with my oil syringe.
Just my experience of course. Not complaining as at the price, it was worth a try.
Nigel
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Peter's chemistry is spot on - I say this as one who was a Chartered Chemist in a previous life.
A Triumph classic motorsport competitor who I know blames waterless coolant for an untimely head gasket failure at a major event a few years ago. Can't substantiate this but he has never used it since (understandable) and neither has he had further HG failures.
Glycol antifreeze/water works - why change?
Nigel
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At that price I will try it.
My GT6 is due an engine oil change now, so I will try it on the engine then pull out the sump plug and see how much oil was left behind. Based on that, I can decide whether to use for engine oil again or just use for diffs without drain plugs, as suggested above.
Nigel
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You may also need some of this!
Nigel
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No, choice of cam won't influence how much oil reaches the rocker shaft.
Provided the engine bottom end is in good condition, sufficient oil will reach the rocker shaft. There is an external oil feed pipe available as an accessory from the usual big suppliers but views on its efficacy vary. Many would say that piping extra oil to the rockers simultaneously steals oil flow from the crank and cam, and risks high oil consumption as all the extra oil up at the rockers finds its way down the valve guides.
Just make sure the engine is in good condition, use good quality oil and filters, change them regularly and all will be well.
Nigel
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Thank you for the kind words about the feature on Mike's 4A, I'm pleased to know you enjoyed it. I wrote the piece and the stunning photos were taken by award-winning photographer Matt Howell. Mike was a great subject for the magazine, always helpful, patient and quick with the kettle during our photo shoot. This was my first big feature for Practical Classics, so it was a very pleasant surprise to find Mike's TR centre of the front cover!
The magazine will be out on the newsagents' shelves next week, subscribers probably get it a little earlier by post. If you can't get to the newsagent but have an Android tablet, it should be available on Google Newsstand and I think there's an iPad version too.
As for calling the issue published late January "March", there's a reason. It goes something like this... If the issue on the shelves in February was called the "February issue", by half way through the month prospective purchasers would look at it and think "the March issue will be out soon so I'm going to wait for that". Sales would fall as a result. Of course if sales fell, the cost of producing each copy would rise so the price would go up. It's just marketing psychology and all the magazines do it, none can afford to be left out.
Nigel
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I should have mentioned that there's a restoration story on a TR4A in Conifer in the latest issue of Practical Classics. It's the main cover shot so you can't miss it and it will give a good idea of what a 4A looks like in Triumph's version of BRG.
Nigel
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The correct dark green for a 4A is Triumph Conifer code 25.
Nigel
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Triumph changed the cam spec later so the ladies could drive it.coat on
My good lady enjoys driving our CP-series TR6, and does so more than competently!
Back on topic, I'm betting the problem is throttle synchronisation, been there and had the same symptoms described here. A well-fettled CP- or CR-series 6 should pull smoothly from around 1,000rpm in direct top. It's also worth checking the throttle linkage for wear. I've fitted the ball-jointed throttle link rods from Moss, as the old trunnion-type connectors on the link rods were badly worn.
Nigel
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I always use Halfords classic 20/50. It's the correct multigrade viscosity spec, contains the necessary ZDDP anti friction additive for classic engines, and it's cheap too. It's blended by Comma, so there's a reputable lubricant supplier producing it.
Nigel
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Here's my experience of mappable ignition...
I was lucky enough to have the Aldon Amethyst mappable ignition system set up by Aldon on their rolling road. My 6 was used for part of the final development of the Amethyst, when Aldon wanted to develop maps for popular classic applications.
The advance curve was set up over several rolling road runs to achieve maximum torque. The final result gave similar peak power to standard (but my 6 was already in good fettle with sound distributor and recently overhauled PI). Torque was improved slightly from 1,000 - 3,000rpm; we were able to add more advance at low revs, giving the increase in torque and a smoother tickover.
We ran out of time on the RR to set up vacuum advance but since then I've added a little vacuum advance at low revs. This has given a further slight smoothing of tickover but I haven't any back-to-back data to demonstrate whether fuel consumption is any better.
There's no trace of pinking using 99 octane petrol.
The biggest benefit I've noticed on the road is in "driveability". Throttle response is much cleaner at low revs - I fully agree with the comments made earlier by Andreas about a very crisp response. The car now appears to drive and respond to the throttle as would be expected of a modern EFI engine. I'm sure an EFI system with mappable ignition could better the fuel economy with Lucas PI but I like the PI, so I'm happy the way it is now.
Mappable ignition certainly gets my vote!
Nigel
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Definitely go for greasable for long life. Suppliers offer a heavy duty version from GKN, worth the small extra cost.
Nigel
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Hi Nigel
How much is the conversion?
Cheers
Mike
Hi Mike,
I have to admit I don't know how much Speedy Cables charge retail. I was writing a technical feature for a classic magazine on instrument refurbishment last year, using my TR6 rev counter and speedo. Needless to say, Speedy kindly offered me a bit of discount in return for a mention.
I should add that I rate Speedy highly, not just because of the help on costs for my instruments but having been to their factory and met the staff, they are a helpful, professional and highly skilled team. From comments on various forums, others rate them highly too.
Nigel
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If you choose the 123, it's worth considering having the rev counter converted to electronic operation and buy the 123 without rev counter drive. Speedy Cables can do this for your original instrument (I have this conversion on my TR6). It gives a much steadier, more accurate reading than the old cable drive.
www.speedycables.com
Nigel
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Hi Martyn,
Welcome to the forum and to the pleasures of TR ownership.
The air filter housing shouldn't be too hard to find but pedestal which drives the distributor and fuel metering unit could be more tricky. Sorry I can't help with parts but this is definitely the right place to ask.
I would recommend getting new injectors, or find an old set cheap and use them for service exchange. Would also suggest replacing all high pressure fuel hoses with new - the old stuff will likely be perished and won't stand up to modern fuel for long.
Nigel
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I've used the Pertronix/Aldon electronic ignition for many years on Triumph sixes and never had a problem. If there's an ignition problem on just one cylinder, it's more likely to be on the HT side. A fault with the electronic ignition would be expected to affect all cylinders.
I would be looking for tracking in the distributor cap or an HT lead lead breaking down. You could check the HT leads by measuring resistance from distributor cap contact to plug cap with a multimeter. Anything approaching 20K ohms means the leads need replacing.
Another possibility is tracking between adjacent contacts on the distributor cap. My TR6 went to 5 the 4 cylinders and it took me ages to find the problem. A new dizzie cap cured it instantly.
Nigel
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I've been using Bosch 4-electrode plugs for about 10 years.
I first fitted them to my GT6 with a standard engine on Stromberg carbs, already using Aldon Ignitor Hall effect ignition and Flamethrower coil. I replaced newish NGK's with Bosch WR78's. The GT6 immediately showed smoother tickover and felt "crisper" through the rev range. No dyno measurements to back this up of course but there was a clearly discernable difference. I didn't notice any difference in how easily it started but it always starts quickly in any kind of weather (once the mechanical pump has got fuel to the float chambers). The Bosch plugs have now covered 30,000 miles and I can't see any reason to replace them in the near future.
After the positive result with the 2 litre engine, I fitted WR78's to the TR6 (CP series still running Lucas PI), also fitted with Aldon electronic ignition and coil. The engine is standard apart from a Phoenix 6-3-1 exhaust - better duck for cover now I've admitted this dirty little secret! The same benefits were apparent on the Bosch plugs as with the GT6. I'm a believer in multi-electrode plugs.
Nigel
Easier Under-Car Access - Hydraulic Ramps
in General TR Technical
Posted
Thank you for your thoughts guys. Thanks also to Alex for excellent advice from the HSE. I will let you what I decide but rest assured, it won't be the "cheapramp"!
Nigel