Nigel Triumph
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Posts posted by Nigel Triumph
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Tim,
There's a sticky thread on the TR6 forum that may help:
DaveN gives detailed process for calibration, about the fifth post down.
Nigel
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44 minutes ago, rcreweread said:
Nigel - those angle drive covers were fitted to the original fibreboard tunnels but often got thrown away with the old tunnel - they do come up from time to time on fleabay - they were pressed steel and fitted to the tunnel with self tappers into spire clips.
I haven't got a photo readily to hand but I think I have some spares if you ever need one
Cheers Rich
Thank you Rich, I never knew that.
Nigel
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On 10/29/2022 at 8:40 PM, Kenrow said:
This might not be economical to ship but is an option (probably someone in the UK makes also):
Thank you, interesting little cover. I'm going to try the Racetorations cover then if there's still a problem with the angle drive, the access cover could be the answer.
Nigel
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Paul Hughes at 2Spec Transmissions is excellent for Triumph diffs and gearboxes.
https://www.2spectransmissions.co.uk/
Both his parents worked for Triumph, he's definitely got 'our cars' in his blood!
Nigel
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Saw them at Earls Court in 1973 iirc, Dark Side tour, then again at Earls Court about 20 years later for the Division Bell tour.
I've also seen Brit Floyd and next month will see Ozzie Floyd in Leicester.
Nigel
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1 hour ago, PodOne said:
Just thought I'd update and confirm the white fibreglass ones despite my best efforts simply don't fit well at least not on my car. I could have used fibreglass to make it fit but given the cost and time it will have to go to a new home. So like everyone else I bit the bullet and bought Racetorations one without the grommet as that's all they had in stock. Have to say where credits due it's fitted really well, no issues other than it took a fair while to dill the holes in the correct locations around the bulkhead as I'd no old cover to use as reference. Well done Racetorations top marks!
I presume the "no grommet" is in reference to a hole to access the top starter nut/bolt from inside the care without the need to strip the whole cover out. If so I've made one to accept a grommet. If not do I need to make another hole to access something else?
Andy
Does the Racetorations cover have a hole for topping up the gearbox oil?
BTW, I have a white FG cover at present and the speedo angle drive is punching its way through. It was difficult to fit. I will replace it with a Racetorations cover next time it needs to be removed.
Nigel
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On 10/13/2022 at 1:29 PM, Ian Vincent said:
I have a cheap laser device from Lidl that allied to an adjustable spirit level will give me an answer to within 1/4 deg. I used to use the same device for checking toe in. Cost about a tenner. I even have spare if you are interested.
Rgds Ian
I've done exactly that and feel the accuracy is adequate for a road car.
Nigel
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Perhaps the factory originally fitted them to a standard pattern, but over the years I've had a couple of Spitfire Mk3s with poppers in different places.
My current TR6 cave with a tonneau whee the poppers didn't match up.
My impression is that hood popper positioning is not consistent, whether from the factory, or subsequent replacement/restoration.
Nigel
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13 hours ago, Andy Moltu said:
The use of tyre pressure to blow out the injector probably won’t work.
The injectors when working normally should pop open at 50psi so a blocked one, which isn’t opening at 50+ psi, may need far more pressure than that to blow clear, perhaps as much as 100psi which your spare won’t take.
I've used a tyre foot pump to successfully unblock and injector in the past, before I bought a cheap compressor for my garage.
Nigel
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3 hours ago, Mike Collins said:
Very occasionaly I have cleared one by going full rich, but the answer is to carry a spare unless you can access compressed air.
Mike.
+1
Mike's suggestion has worked for me occasionally. Full choke and floor the throttle.
I've also had a blocked injector clear itself after 5-10 miles at 70mph, following much stuttering at lower speeds, which failed to clear for around 40 miles before.
Nigel
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I've had very similar failure to disengage when hot from a J- type overdrive. It was a sticky solenoid, just as Tony has described.
Nigel
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18 minutes ago, Jonny TR6 said:
Install a fuel pump switch on the outside of the fuel tank cover panel. You can then switch the pump on and off without having to remove the panel to access the wiring.
If the fuel pump switch is hidden from view, it's also a security device.
Nigel
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Personally, I wouldn't bother, on the basis juts one more thing to go wrong.
But if you want to go the electric route, what about adapting Stag electric windows? Another possibility is Reliant Scimitar GTE, where electric windows were available as an option in the seventies, so could possibly be adapted.
Nigel
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5 hours ago, stuart said:
Unless your going to be driving it hard don’t bother, you might find going for Super unleaded is preferable.
Stuart
No, I don't use any fuel additive. 99 octane E5 works fine in my TR6 and GT6. Tesco Momentum is the cheapest, Shell V-Power and Esso super unleaded also good, and in some areas the Esso 99 octane is alcohol free.
Nigel
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Could it be a noisy PI fuel pump, or fuel cavitation in the pump? Near the left rear wheel, not right side of course.
What pump does your car have, Lucas or Bosch?
Nigel
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Also take a look at this past thread:
Nigel
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Another vote from me for using the K&N detergent spray cleaner followed by drying out in the airing cupboard then re-oiling, which I do every couple of years.
Nigel
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I have a good condition manifold for twin SU HS6 from a 2500S. It's been cut and professionally TIG welded to place the carbs horizontally, not the usual 7-8 degrees downdraught.
Please let me know if you're interested,,I can dig it out and post photos.
Nigel
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22 hours ago, Andrew Smith said:
Thanks folks,
On a standard 150 cam which seems (seemed) to suit the Emerald system - found this article from 2012 although technology and experience will have moved on : https://www.emeraldm3d.com/articles/apr2012/
Cheers, Andrew
That article from Emerald is interesting, and honest in what it says about roughness at idle and low rpm with plenum and single throttle body. Hopefully Keith Warren will be along to comment. I've written magazine features about his Emerald converted TR6 and a home brewed efi conversion he did on a Spitfire engine.
His CP series TR6 didn't run well at low speeds until he swapped the cam for a profile with later inlet valve opening, think he used Chris Witor's CW3021 cam. I had the pleasure of driving Keith's 6 a few years ago. The engine is very civilised and feels quick.
Nigel
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Good luck Dennis. Weather forecast looks warm but more reasonable at the weekend.
Nigel
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20 minutes ago, stuart said:
These are the preferred suppliers https://www.gsparkplug.com/
Stuart.
Green Spark Plug also get my vote, I use them for classic car and bike plugs, never had a problem.
Nigel
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On 7/16/2022 at 4:57 PM, Z320 said:
+1 for Waldi‘s push gun,
my only choice for this
I also use an old push gun to grease the UJs.
Nigel
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I had a similar issue with my CP series 6 in warm weather a few days ago, also near standard worth a Bosch pump. The car had been parked in full sun for a few hours then started and driven very slowly in traffic for 5 to 10 minutes before losing power and misfiring. Once I was able to get moving at decent speeds the problem cleared quickly. After that, it ran faultlessly for the rest of my 60 mile trip home, including high speeds on the motorway.
It's been fine since. I put the problem down to fuel vaporisation due to the hot weather, which cleared when the airflow at speed cooled the engine bay. I'm using 99 octane E5 unleaded.
Nigel
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I had a similar problem with the speedo in my TR6. It was caused by slippage inside the angle drive. Testing with a drill suggested all was fine but on the road, the AD was slipping.
A new angle drive solved the problem but be careful of cheap repro drives, some don't last long.
Nigel
Synthetic Fuel NOT Bio
in General TR Technical
Posted
Interesting idea, though I'm concerned by the energy input required, since water must be electrolysed to produce hydrogen, which is presumably combined with carbon dioxide to produce methanol. There is also an energy cost in capturing carbon dioxide. Would the methanol then be used as a fuel for modified internal combustion engines, or would further energy intensive chemical synthetis be required to produce higher molecular weight alkylates to fuel an IC engine??
I'm sceptical that such a process could yield a commercially viable petrol or diesel substitute in the near future. Apologies for my pessimism.
Nigel