-
Content Count
1,385 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Nigel Triumph
-
-
I had a problem a couple of years ago with the column overdrive switch on my CP series TR6. I can't advise on replacement switches, and suggest that it's worth trying to repair the original first. On mine, a wire had broken where it connects to a switch contact. Trimming the offending wire and soldering back to the contact made a sound repair. I also cleaned the switch contact faces for good measure.
Nigel
-
Despite oiling the cylinders when refitting the head, is it possible the piston rings have stuck to the bores while static for 6 months?
I would try pouring diesel in through the plug holes and leave 24 hours to free off any sticking rings. Then try turning by hand with the plugs out
From memory the crank pulley bolt is torqued to 80-100 ft lbs, so don't be afraid to lean on it hard to turn the engine!
Nigel
-
I've also used the Chris Witor seal set on my MU. Seems to be good quality after 2 years service. Chris doesn't sell anything he wouldn't fit to his own Triumphs.
Nigel
-
I can recommend Don and Aldridge.
Aldridge fired a new mohair hood to my TR6 15 years ago, it's still in excellent condition and fits well.
Nigel
-
I've always used EP90 gear oil, as per workshop manual, injected via a grease gun.
Nigel
-
I used Renovo on a tired BMW Z3 roof, cleaning first then colouring and sealing. It was the original hood, 25 years old and came up almost as good as new.
Nigel
-
Diego,
As said already, engaging reverse fewer and overdrive together is very dangerous and can quickly destroy the overdrive unit's uni-directional clutch. Incorrect wiring, failed inhibitor switches or a stuck solenoid could cause the overdrive to remain engaged when reverse gear is selected... Which is vey bad news for the overdrive.
Could you disconnect all wiring from the gearbox and overdrive, then test now tune car behaves in reverse gear? If reverse is normal with electrics disconnected, the gearbox is okay and probably the overdrive is also okay. Then you need to find what is wrong with the electrics, could be wiring or solenoid.
Good luck, hope this helps.
Nigel
-
Yep, 5/16" UNF.
Nigel
-
On 12/9/2023 at 3:35 PM, John L said:
You could mark the adjustment settings, on the MU and turn in all three together, (richer) like a 1/4 turn and see how it goes, you could always put it back if it didn't work.
Mike,
John's suggestion above works. I've used this approach to fine tune the mixture on my CP-series 6. Better still, fit a T-piece in the MU vacuum line and adjust the three metering unit rings together to get maximum vacuum with the engine idling. A vacuum reading of around 12" Hg is normal.
I was told this by a retired Lucas service engineer, who used to tune up the 2.5PI 'jam sandwiches' used by the police back in the seventies.
It's also important to ensure you have the correct fuel pressure at the metering unit, should be 105-110 psi. Take care if inserting a pressure gauge into the high pressure fuel line. Trying to tune the metering unit without the correct fuel pressure would be a waste of time.
Nigel
-
I bought an alloy rad from Coolex in Nottingham, for my 2.5 lite GT6. The quality is excellent, and I expect it will last for decades.
Does it cool the engine better than the standard rad?? Hard to say, the manufacturer claims a modest 15% improvement in heat transfer. That's useful, but not an obvious, noticeable improvement in most conditions.... But it looks gorgeous when I lift the bonnet!
If you're not sure, I would advise staying with a standard rad. Certainly better than risking a non-standard rad from an unknown supplier.
Nigel
-
Yes please, will pm you my address.
Many thanks,
Nigel
-
I can't help with the exact position to cut a hole in the cover to access the gearbox oil filler plug, but....
The best solution is to fit the Racestorations two piece cover. This has access points for the filler plug, the speedo angle drive and the propshaft flange. The rear half of the cover can be removed while leaving the H-frame centre console in place. This saves a lot of time when needing to get to the overdrive solenoid. This cover is not cheap, but it's well worth the money in my opinion. It proved its worth when I recently needed to change the speedo angle drive.
Nigel
-
I used King trimetal bearing shells when rebuilding a 2.5 litre saloon engine for my GT6 a few years ago. They were supplied by Chris Witor, the big Triumph saloon specialist. His reputation is that he never sells spare parts he wouldn't be happy to fit to his own cars.
I've only done about 5k miles since the rebuild, but so far so good, no reason to doubt the quality of the King bearings.
Nigel
-
From experience over many years with my 1970 Triumph 650 bike, Nylocs work, and so do Loctite type locking compounds, but split washers and star washers are not reliable. Twin locking nuts are also effective where there's space.
The Triumph 650 is a parallel twin cylinder design, both pistons rising and falling in unison. It's legendary for vibration at speed!
Nigel
-
21 hours ago, jerrytr5 said:
So what's the issue with using a bucket on your own drive? Is it illegal to do so? Surely that's too draconian even for Germany where they do like a rule for most things. Maybe that's why my neighbours thought it odd when I washed my cycle outside my flat when I lived in Munich.
I wouldn't use a pressure washer except in very specific areas - that's going to do more harm than good. Perhaps some of our continental forum members will have some tips for you.
Jerry
Three are all kinds of rules in Germany, which could seem unreasonable to a Brit... for example not mowing the grass on Sunday. The car washing restriction doesn't surprise me... could happen here in a few years.
Nigel
-
54 minutes ago, marki said:
Ah yes, was going to keep it, am I right in thinking I’ll need a distributor pedestal a drive shaft off a 2000 ?
cheers Mark
Yes, the distributor pedestal from a 2 litre or carburetor 2.5 litre engine is required, though not the shaft. As far as I know the shafts are the same. Remember to shimthe new pedestal with paper gaskets to preserve the distributor dive shaft end float.
Then pop the original distributor back on, set the timing and that should be the job done.
Nigel
-
On 10/17/2023 at 12:52 PM, stuart said:
Chris Witor does a good cam for carburettor equipped cars https://www.chriswitor.com/
Stuart.
+1 for Chris Witor.
I fitted his CW3201 cam to my 2.5 litre GT6, which also has mildly ported head, skimmed for CR of 9.5:1, and is fuelled by twin SU HS6s. Chris rates this set up at around 135bhp. The cam has the same timing as the later CR series TR6 PI with extra inlet valve lift.
It preserves the low rpm manners of the Triumph six pot, with extra mid range torque and top end power. The original 2500S saloon engine I fitted in the GT6 was rated at only 105bhp.
Nigel
-
I don't know who makes that gasket but with the sealing rings around to ports, it looks like a good one.
I've bought similar from Canley Classics, which is working fine on my 2.5 litre GT6. IMHO, the best manifold gasket for Triumph sixes is the Payen JA510, but they're hard to find now. Avoid the grey gaskets made from what looks like speckled cardboard, they don't last.
Nigel
-
Many engine reconditioners fit bronze sleeves into the old guides to overcome wear. Bronze has lower friction than traditional cast iron guides.
Nigel
-
Choke mechanism stuck? Or counterfeit plugs?
Try refitting the old plugs.
Nigel
-
27 minutes ago, ntc said:
First thing to check is battery and connectors
That's been my experience with a high torque starter on my 2.5 litre GT6. If battery connections are less than perfect, the starter clicks or fails to engage properly.
Nigel
-
I had a J-type overdrive rebuilt by Overdrive Spares in Rugby. It works fine.... I've seen their test rig and all their overhauled units are thoroughly tested.
Nigel
-
-
Thank you Andy, I may well end up hiring a modern muscle car instead.
Nigel
UJ Cap Fit in Yoke - Too Tight!
in General TR Technical
Posted
I wonder if the internal measurement with a caliper is accurate.... It can be difficult to measure internal diameters that way, external measurement with calipers is easier.
I have fitted UJs to similar uprated hubs sourced from Classic Driving Development. The UJ cups could be squeezed in using the vice and socket method, exactly as expected, without excess resistance.
Nigel