Nigel Triumph
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Posts posted by Nigel Triumph
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Ernest has said it's a CP series car, and I thought they are all A type O/D, J type coming in with CR series.
I am wondering if the problem lies with the 2nd gear inhibitor switch or its wiring.
Nigel
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No, it's not necessary to get the gearbox and overdrive out. The H frame under the dash must be removed, then remove the gearbox cover. After that, access to the solenoid is easy.
Adjustment of the solenoid push rod needs to be done accurately after the new one has been fitted, follow the instructions in the workshop manual and it's not difficult.
Nigel
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2 hours ago, mike797 said:
Hello All. Have you tried Caerbont Automotive, 01639732200. They made me one for a Silk motorcycle, made to match the original speedo worked a treat.
Mike797
Same as Speedy Cables in Caerbont. They converted the tacho of my CP TR6 to electronic about 5 years ago, did a great job.
Nigel
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20 hours ago, DRD said:
Yes totally agree, why not just remove the dislike button. Seems a rather knee jerk reaction to me.
There is another Triumph forum I use often, based on the same software as this one I suspect. Over there, you can like, award a cup, laugh, applaud but you cannot dislike.
It works very well in my opinion.
Nigel
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3 hours ago, Waldi said:
Yes, a bit of a too strong reaction, I feel too. Just removing the dislike button may have sufficed. As an alternative we can say a few kind words (I do that), but others may see this as “pollution”?
Cheers,
Waldi'Like'
Nigel
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9 minutes ago, Charlie D said:
Nigel,
Don’t worry too much.
I don’t think they have quite perfected the facial recognition bit just yet.
If you open the “Google images” search page and drop a picture in it will search and display “Similar” pictures.
I used your TR profile picture, and these are the results:
Haha, does Google know all my aliases!
Nigel
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I tried search for my GT6 and TR6 in Google images.
Both appeared as small cutouts on magazine covers and Google found them. I find the technology simultaneously impressive and scary.
Nigel
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2 hours ago, MichaelH said:
Thank you: got a little list to try
Its the tedium of taking the seats and H piece out and getting to the box that really puts me off starting but I know that it won't happen until I do!
The garage being cold doesn't help!
Just seen Nigel's comment: I have always gone to Overdrive Repairs Services in Shefffield where I have to say they have been very helpful especially as I rebuild Overdrives myself. They happily do significant bits for me, friendly and give me advice derived from their wealth of experience.
The sensible thing would be to ring them
Michael
I'm using Overdrive Spares in Rugby as they also have a strong reputation and they're only half an hour from home. I will still ask them the question about reluctant O/D engagement, though it seems we have an answer from ORS.
Nigel
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I'm going to Overdrive Spares in Rugby on Monday, to get a J-Type tested and probably rebuilt. I will ask what causes reluctance for the O/D to engage at high revs.
Nigel
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Different O/D unit, but the D type on my GT6 behaves the same way. Backing off the accelerator helps get it to engage, though I feel that shouldn't be necessary.
Looking forward to others input here.
Nigel
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11 minutes ago, Rob Y said:
10 coats of Le Tonkinois varnish, lightly sanded between coats, 1 or 2 days between coats. Leave a few days to fully dry then flatten to remove any dust and uneven areas. Then polish as much or as little as required to get the desired finish using finer and finer polish. If it is too glossy you can always take it back to make it a bit duller with fine wet and dry. I used polishing heads on a drill as used for car bodywork paint polishing. Worked a treat
For me, having gone to all the effort of making a super gloss finish, I couldn’t sand it back to semi-Matt. It became a bit of an obsession, every other night carefully applying another coat of varnish.
It’s a very satisfying job and one you can sit and admire whenever you are driving.
Rob
I've done similar, on a smaller scale with Spitfire Mk3 dash. I used another varnish, but still the biggest problem was the time taken for each coat to harden enough to sand back. As Rob says, it takes 48 hours between coats (that's a minimum, indoors at around 20 deg C). This job simply can't be rushed!
Nigel
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I don't know if 25 thou bend would clamp down okay and not leak but if it was my car, I wouldn't take the chance. New alloy versions are £40-50, presumably old steel ones are cheaper.
Nigel
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2 hours ago, john.r.davies said:
For me, the Conspiracy Theory of History doesn't stand up beside the CockUp Theory!
And this was the most monumental CockUp!
+1
Cock up in my opinion.
Right now, there are more than enough meritless conspiracy theories in the USA, we don't need any more!
Nigel
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18 minutes ago, DaveR said:
BAE needles with yellow springs should improve things.
Don't fit the standard 2500TC Saloon BDB needles as these are far too weak for your set-up.
Dave
+1
One further point to note is that breathing through twin SUs, this engine must have an airbox and filter(s). Without an airbox, Chris Witor - the guru for Triumph's big saloons - states that the mixture is so weak as to make 2500TC engine almost undriveable. I've experienced this with the 2.5 litre saloon engine in my GT6 which runs twin HS6 SUs. Fitting an airbox and filter absolutely transformed the performance.
If your SUs are running open without an airbox, try that first.
Nigel
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3 hours ago, Andy Moltu said:
My experience with my 6 which had lost its PI before I bought it was that the cam doesn’t really suite twin carbs.
Transformed by re-fitting the PI. Other cams seem to work better with twin carbs including the CR cam.
I've seen others with similar experiences from the CP cam. I suspect that the CP cam doesn't work well with SU carbs because it has quite early opening of the inlet valve
With Lucas PI, each cylinder has an individual inlet tract. At low revs, when the inlet valves open, back pulses can interfere in a twin SU manifold, causing rough running. It's the same or worse with EFi setups that use a single throttle body on a big plenum.
With Lucas PI or triple Webers, one choke and butterfly per cylinder avoids this interference at low revs.
The CR cam doesn't open the valves as early, so works better with twin SUs.
Nigel
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1 hour ago, ianc said:
Super picture by David Townsend - thank you.
Ian Cornish
+1
Nigel
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Happy birthday Roger, enjoy your day!
Nigel
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7 minutes ago, DaveN said:
What’s the thoughts on the Accuspark iteration of coil?
I have an Accuspark coil on my Scimitar GTE. The coil has worked fine for several years but I couldn't say if it's better or worse than any other.
Nigel
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I've recently recommissioned my 1970 Triumph 650 bike, after a layup of about 2 years. The few pints of petrol left in the tank smelt stale and like varnish.
The carburettor float bowl was horrible, with a very strong varnish smell and yellow powdery deposits inside. The yellow contamination wasn't soluble in thinners or brake cleaner but cleaned up easily with warm water and washing up liquid. I suspect it was a metallic salt formed by reaction between oxidised fuel and metal(s) from the alloy of the float bowl.
So stale petrol is a real problem after prolonged layup but I couldn't say how long it takes to go off. There's no way the bike would have run properly with all the muck inside the carb. After a good clean up and fresh petrol, it's going fine again.
Nigel
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On 11/23/2020 at 7:31 PM, Andy Moltu said:
Changing the overflow tank on the 6 is a case of looking for a problem that doesn’t exist.
A TR6 shouldn’t need topping up between coolant changes. The radiator and the cooling system overall has ample capacity to cool the car. If it runs hot there is a problem somewhere.
+1. The standard TR6 cooling system including the expansion bottle works well on my 1970 car.
My '77 Scimitar GTE has an expansion tank that works on the same principle. No problem with that either.
Nigel
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6 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said:
Find TDC and then wind the engine BACKWARDS until the crown of the piston is 1/2" down from TDC (stick a long pencil in the hole) fill with rope and away you go ?
Mick Richards
Vital info for anyone attempting the rope trick for the first time. Fortunately I've never needed to try it.
Nigel
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The pressure relief valve should have a single spring, like the larger of the two in your picture. I would bin both those springs and buy a new correct PRV spring from a trusted supplier.
As for cam bearings, opinions differ. Many will say fit them but I didn't on the two 6 cylinder engines I've built and oil pressure hasn't been a problem.
Nigel
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Repeatedly squirt penetrating oil down the stud holes for 24 hours minimum. If the double nut trick doesn't work, a stud extractor like this one will most likely get them out:
The studs will be chewed up and fit for scrap afterwards, but it's always best to fit new fasteners when replacing the head.
Good luck,
Nigel
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Hi Alan,
Thank you for the link. Oxford Vitality's pricing seems very fair.
True to their word, Lloyds phoned this morning and I've picked up a few months supply today. Great customer service but I will try Oxford Vitality next time. For any other pharmaceutical requirements, I'm going to Lloyds as the local branch is on the edge of town, only 5 mins from home and it rarely gets crowded.
Nigel
Chrome v stainless bumpers
in General TR Technical
Posted
Stainless bumpers have often been discussed here, for example:
Several more similar threads can be found using the forum search facility.
Nigel