Nigel Triumph
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Posts posted by Nigel Triumph
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30 minutes ago, iani said:
Just a thought Nigel, using a 3.27 with a 2.5l engine isn't a common configuration, as I'm sure you know it's the weakest ratio and I don't know how well it will take the extra torque. Andrew Turner is selling a 3.63 on eBay right now, it looks to be in good nick and is a good compromise ratio, I'm running one in this GT6 and I fitted one to my last Mk2 GT6 too.
Thanks for the thought. The diff itself is the weak link on the small chassis 3.27 final drive, not the crown wheel and pinion. I've (hopefully) overcome this by fitting a Blackline LSD.
The 2.5 litre engine's torque easily pulls the 3.27 final drive ratio, and I feel 3.67 is a bit too low.
Time will tell.
Nigel
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10 minutes ago, iani said:
My GT6 gauges (pic) are from Speedhut.com Nigel, the speedo is a GPS unit & the tacho is an electronic unit taking a feed from my coil. For the TR I bought a spare standard speedo, this was send to the inaptly named speedy cables who then took 25 weeks to convert it to digital operation, this involves a new rear case and a new face, the internals are all new and the mileometer is a small LCD panel. Speedy don't offer a GPS conversion that I'm aware of, nor do they sell the sender unit that replaces the gearbox speedo drive, that comes from RevingtonTR, they also sell Speedy's converted speedo's but they don't hold stock so you have a long lead time there too.
Thank you Ian, very helpful.
I would like to keep the original look of the GT6 instruments, so will probably go for the Speedy Cables electronic conversion. I've got a spare speedo and tacho, so I'd better get them off to Speedy straight away!
Nigel
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Your new speedo looks great Ian. I'm particularly interested because I'm in the process of upgrading the transmission on my 2.5 litre GT6, fitting J-type overdrive and 3.27:1 final drive to replace the original 3.89. I had been thinking about sending the speedo to Speedy Cables for overhaul and recalibration, but an electronic speedo conversion that I can calibrate myself sounds like a great idea.
I didn't realise Speedy Cables offer electronic speedo conversions, as their website only shows info on tacho conversions. Do they supply the electronic speedo conversion as complete kit including the sensor? And do they offer a GPS speedo conversion too? Thanks in advance for any advice.
Nigel
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Just caught up with this thread.
John's title for the thread captures my feelings on the matter.
Nigel
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Has anyone noticed how England's cricket and rugby teams are capable of amazing winning streaks, but never simultaneously?
Nigel
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7 minutes ago, openroad said:
Thank God Eddie has picked a Fly Half to play against Italy. !!
Most of the 6 Nations have a Proper Stand Off, who is more than likely the best Player too. I hope that Eddie has eventually got the Notion that England's needs to do that too.
+1
What I can't understand is why Eddie found it so difficult to make such an obvious decision.
As for the captaincy, Farrell has shown time and again (e.g. against Scotland last Saturday and against South Africa in the WC final) that he's not capable of thinking on his feet when the game doesn't go to plan, 'Thinking correctly under pressure', was a discipline that Sir Clive Woodward valued highly in his 2003 WC squad, and we know what they achieved. Farrell seems unable to read the game and adapt, and in post match interviews appears like a rabbit in the car headlights. A true captain needs a great deal more mental agility than he displays.
I'm confident England will beat Italy on Saturday, but fear we may make the job seem rather more difficult than the French did last weekend.
Nigel
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Hi Allan,
I imagine that your question will attract various answers, as polishing a classic car is surely a matter of individual prefence.
My classics are kept smart and driven regularly, so I can relate to your approach of keeping a car to a nice standard but not necessarily concours condition. My TR6 and Scimitar are finished in two pack, like your 4A. I've always been happy with Autoglym Super Resin polish, applied twice each year. No doubt a professional ceramic finish at £500 would last longer but I would still find the cost hard to justify. I enjoy the biannual process of washing and polishing, and it also gives a good opportunity to spot any developing paintwork problems early.
Merely my point of view of course.
Nigel
Nigel
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2 minutes ago, stuart said:
I use copperslip, comes apart easily, if as you say its a good fit the it`ll seal fine, dont overtighten the "U" clamps as thats what makes them difficult t separate or use the Mikalor type clamps. Mikalor clamps
Stuart.
+1
I use copper grease with Mikalor clamps. Seals well and easy to remove when necessary in future.
Nigel
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With Captain Tom's passing, we've lost a gentleman and a hero.
Nigel
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For what it's worth, I've had gas struts on the one-piece front end of my GT6 getting on for 20 years. Not the same as a TR of course, but heavier as the GT6 front includes the wings and inner wheel arch bowls. It uses a pair of gas struts running from brackets bolted to the front of the chassis (where the valance mounts) up to the inner wheel arches. There are plates to spread the load on the wheel arches.
The struts provide a little assist with raising the front end but are nowhere near strong enough to lift it on their own. They also limit the height to which it lifts and stabilise it when lifted, much as the original hinged stay would have done. The front of my car been raised and lowered literally hundreds of times over the years without any problem.
Nigel
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Happy birthday John. Enjoy your day as best you can!
Nigel
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Pete,
Sounds great!
I toured Ireland in 2009 in my TR6, including driving the Ring of Kerry (highly recommended). Many of the roads were extremely rough but the car held up well. After 10 days and 1,200 miles, the only problem was a couple of screws on the rear cockpit trim that had worked loose!
At that time, it was very hard to find any fuel above 95 octane, so I retarded the timing slightly to prevent pinking. Don't know if availability of higher octane fuel has improved since.
Nigel
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2 hours ago, Mike C said:
I had sooty plug problems when driving in traffic, then about 2 years ago I switched to NGK BUR 6ET plugs. They are expensive in Aus, but I've had no plug problems since.
+1
NGK BUR6ET triple electrode plugs (or Bosch WR78) work well in my CP series '6.
Watch out for fake NGK plugs, the problem has been mentioned on this forum before. Green Spark Plug are well thought of and not expensive for NGK:
https://www.gsparkplug.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=BUR6ET
As mentioned above, throttle synchronisation is important for smooth idling and low speed running.
Nigel
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I wish there was a 'Like' button on this forum. Anyway, I like Stuart and Paul's replies to my suggestion of side impact protection.
Nigel
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Hi Roger,
I've just been catching up with this thread, amazing work! The centre console looks very smart indeed.
Just a thought on safety. Is there space inside the doors to fit side impact bars? Every car made in the last 20+ years has them, and retro fitting to TR4-6 may be possible??
Nigel
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1 hour ago, rcreweread said:
John - not sure if this is relevant but here goes in case it is.
When I got my first mini at the age of 16, I stripped the engine down and modified and gas flowed the head as per David Vizard and all the advice in the tuning magazine of the day called Triple C ( Cars and Car Conversions) - at the time, I had a holiday job in our local garage .
Having successfully done the head, and now knowing everything there was about gas flowing, I looked inside the inlet tract of my high performance 1 1/4 SU and concluded that SU should have done better, so I ground away the step/ridge in front of the jet to create a lovely smooth inlet tract.
When engine was finished and installed, I road tested the car on my parents drive which was about 50 yards long but I managed to increase this by 5 yards by opening the garage doors at the bottom.
However the engine just wouldn't run very well at all - once it got revving standing still, it would really rev. Talking to one of the mechanics at the garage about this, he very kindly brought some trade plates along in his lunch hour, and we went for a spin - it was awful and he could see the disappointment on my face, so he set to checking everything - timing. mixture etc and could find nothing wrong.
He then quizzed me as to what I had done to the engine and I explained about gas flowing the head, and then doing the same to the carb, at which point his eyes lit up. He then explained that the bridge was there on purpose to create turbulence in front of the jet which helped to atomise the fuel and as a consequence of what I had done, the carb was now ruined - suitably chastised, a trip to the local scrappy and ten shillings later, I fitted a good second hardhand SU and I was away - engine ran beautifully and when I was old enough to drive and passed my test, it was thrashed to the red line in every gear, every time and never let me down - when I could afford the insurance, I changed it for an MG1100 unit which was even more fun, but that's another story.
So to cut to the chase, it may not be a good idea to remove that casting step but no doubt someone with a lot more experience of PI throttle bodies will be along to advise
Cheers Rich
Advance apologies for slight thread drift...
I love Rich's story of the tuned Mini, having also fitted an MG1100 engine to a Mini as a teenager, when Triple C was the must have car magazine. I rebuilt the engine, including gas flowing the head per David Vizard and fitting a 997 Cooper camshaft. Fuelling was via a pair of H4 1.5" SUs and the exhaust was big bore with a long centre branch manifold.
Eighteen year old me thought it was the dog's whatsits! The car could hold 1275 Cooper S away from the lights. Then I saw the light and bought my first Triumph, a Spit Mk3, and I've owned Triumphs almost ever since.
Nigel
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That kit deserves to sell well. There's no shortage of rusty donor MX-5s.
Nigel
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Alloy parts clean up very well with vapour blasting.
The previous owner of my recently acquired Triumph Trident bike had the cylinder block and head vapour blasted last year. They are quite complex castings (with deep cooling fins) and still look like new.
Nigel
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Well done Lewis, richly deserved.
How about a simple new rule for awarding honours? Any career politicians are automatically ineligible.
Nigel
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5 minutes ago, jerrytr5 said:
Like these Nigel?
Adams & Page flogged 'em at a fiver each as I recall.
Jerry
That's the kind of wheel I like on sixties cars! Better still with chrome hub caps.
Nigel
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3 hours ago, iani said:
They're Wolfrace slot mags, reasonably period, I don't like the body coloured inserts & caps so they'll be going, beyond that I'm undecided. Were it a Mk2 I'd go for Rostyles but the Mk1 was only chrome hubcaps or wires and I'm not keen on either really, possibly Minilite copies but they're just so common (I have them on my TR)
Hi Ian,
Hope my comment on the alloys didn't cause offence. I really do like early GT6s, but I'm more attuned to slot mags on seventies cars, like a Mk3. It's just me...
Now a set of sixties 5.5J Dunlop steelies with chrome hub caps,, that would do it for me. Very hard to find any in the correct offset these days though.
Nigel
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My answer to the question posed in the title is simple:
As soon as we no longer enjoy driving and looking after them!
Nigel
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Great looking car Ian, I love the look of the Mk1, and I say that as Mk3 GT6 owner.
Not sure about those alloys though... Just my opinion of course, and they can't be seen from the driver's seat!
Nigel
Mota-Lita Steering Wheel
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I'm exactly 6 feet tall, so a comparative shorty in this company!
My '6 is fitted with a flat 14" Motolita. It works for me but is quite close to the thighs. Using the telescopic column adjustment to bring the wheel further from the dash helps, and Matt's recommendation of a dished wheel would achieve a similar effect.
Running 6" alloys with 195/65-15 tyres on my car means that any smaller than 14" steering wheel diameter and the steering feels rather heavy.
Nigel