TR Paul
-
Content Count
209 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by TR Paul
-
-
Hi Chris, I bypassed the rheostat, on my TR6. It's easily done, with 3 or 3" of decent cable & a couple of male spade connectors. I now get plenty of light in my instruments; I can't imagine wanting dim gauges... all or nothing for me! Best of luck with your '6', Paul.
-
Mark, Peter... that sounds like excellent advice; many thanks, Paul.
-
Hi, everybody. I see that Rimmers' are selling brand new 'Lucas'(?) injectors, & that they are about to have a spring sale. I am thinking of buying one to keep in my '6, as a spare. Do you think this is a good idea? Or do you think the injector might deteriorate in storage? Many thanks for your help, best wishes Paul.
-
Hi Neil, thanks for that. I tapped it (prior to reading your last post),engine running, injector in situ. This does seem to have largely alleviated the problem, although TRoy initially starts (from cold) on 5 cylinders; however this has been an intermittent problem throughout my 7 years of TR6 ownership. Best wishes, Paul
-
Evening (again) gentlemen... I had tried pulling the injector out (engine running)a couple of times, to no avail,but after reading about walloping,sorry... tapping it with a spanner I had to give that ago, and things have improved significantly! I've got a day off work tomorrow, so I will be able to give 'Troy' a decent test run(with fingers crossed), to see how things go. Peter,'wjgco',Neil & Robin, many thanks for your advice. I'll keep you posted. Best wishes, Paul.
-
Evening everybody, I've just been playing with my '6', & as I mentioned in my last post, I have swapped the suspect injector (No1) for the No4 unit, and sure enough, No1 cylinder, is now firing beautifully, whilst No4 is 'missing'; It would appear I've been sold a duff injector... D'oh! Time to contact Rimmers! Many thanks for your advice, best wishes, Paul.
-
Thanks,Chaps...that's good advice. I've been mulling the problem over whilst eating my tea (mmm; steak pie...). Another course of action I might take, will be to swap the suspect injector for no4 injector (new last summer). That should establish whether or not the 'new' injector is a dud... I'll let you know how I get on. Best wishes, Paul.
-
Hi Everybody... Last week I fitted a recon Injector (from Rimmers) to 'Troy', my 1970 TR6, as No1 cylinder was completely 'missing'. This seemed to cure the problem, until yesterday, when the engine started 'missing' again, on the same cylinder. I re-bled the injector, went for a drive,& all seemed well. I then celebrated by having a cuppa,& giving Troy a well deserved wash. After the wash I went for another drive, to help dry 'Troy' out, & guess what... after a couple of miles he was back to 5 cylinders again. Is this this a symptom of a M.U. problem, or am I missing something simpler(& cheaper, please!!!)? Your wisdom on these matters will be much appreciated, all the best, Paul.
-
The heater on my '6 works reasonably well. The lever mechanism for the air vent has long-gone (it wasn't present when I bought'TRoy'). I keep it open most of the time, only closing it 'manually'(i.e. pushing it shut with my hand) when I wash the car; I believe keeping a good airflow to the heater aids engine cooling, as well as the efficiency of the heater itself. Best wishes, Paul.
-
Hi Chris, My TR6 p.i. was always a pig to start from cold, in 'cold' weather (That is, any weather other than a glorious summers' day).I tried all sorts of stuff with the ignition & fuel systems (as mentioned on the forum many times), ending up using a small wooden wedge to hold the choke lever on the M.U. fully open, & even then sometimes needing jump-leads. Then my (original type Lucas) starter motor packed up (literally the minute I got home from the 2010 LM classic),and I replaced it with a 'Hi-Torque' lightweight starter motor from TRGB; I wouldn't say that 'Troy' starts at the first turn of the switch now, but he always does start, & I don't need jump leads or a wedge! Hope you get your problems sorted soon, best wishes, Paul.
-
Many thanks, for all the responses to my query. I've now got the diff off, and I can't find any problems with the chassis or mounting studs (which look like they've been uprated by a P.O.).I've bought a new mounting plate, and I've had that fitted to the diff by my friendly local garage. However, I now have one problem: In my eagerness to remove & clean up the diff, I've unbolted the rear mounting rubbers, & in a 'blonde moment', I didn't make a note of which way 'round the should be fitted... D'oh!!! Is it flat side up, or rounded side up? Many thanks from your slightly dim friend, Paul.
-
Thanks Andy, sounds like I'll need the good luck!
-
Thanks for all the info; I think I will buy a new mounting plate. Obviously , this will be a good opportunity inspect the mountings on the chassis, and also to paint/waxoyl that area of the car, which is usually difficult to get at, whilst the diff is in situ. Also, I can get the (leaky) front pinion oil seal changed at the same time the front plate is being changed. Best wishes, Paul.
-
Evening chaps. I had a very enjoyable trip to Brands Hatch at the weekend, to watch the HSCC racing,in Troy, my '70 TR6. However my weekend was slightly marred (luckily within 4 miles from home, in Bournemouth) when a nasty clunking noise started from the rear of Troy. I thought it might be the usual driveshaft/UJ issues, but, upon investigation, I found that the front mounting plate on the diff unit has broken. Obviously,the diff unit will need to be removed,& the offending plate removed/replaced. Does anybody have any good tips or advice on this job; is it better to replace,rather than repair the plate? If so, who makes/sells the best plates, or are they all the same? Is it essential to remove the (factory spec) silencer & the rear exhaust pipes? Anything else that the manuals don't tell you about? Your wisdom will be much appreciated! Many thanks, Paul.
-
Hi Chris, the red item under Andrews' bonnet looks like a compressor unit for Air-horns;IMHO a great period accessory(I've got them on my own TR6!). Also the front air-dam came out with the CR series in late 1972, and was available from Triumph as an upgrade for earlier cars, thus also qualifying as a period accessory. Best wishes, Paul.
-
Hi Andrew, that's a gorgeous '6... nice colour, too. Have fun! All the best, Paul
-
Evening chaps... Yes, a fabulous day, yesterday.. I took 'Troy'(my 1970 TR6) for a blast along the coast, from home in Bournemouth to Swanage; I spent some considerable time at the Steam railway there,drooling over Steam locos! I do use the '6 all year round, as long as there's not mountains of salt or(the now 'normal')Monsoon conditions. Waxoil & wheel arch liners are the answer!
-
Hi James, I have always got on well with the Lucas pump(I have no experience of the Bosch pump);I use a facet pump as a 'booster', 'upstream' of the Lucas pump, and a cooling coil on the pump. I replaced the pump when it started leaking a few years ago(I thought about repairing it myself, but a lack of confidence, plus I had no idea how old the unit was, led me down the 'recon' route).Troy (my'6')has performed faultlessly on two VERY hot trips to the Le Mans classic. I am considering using a relay on the electrical side of pump; Can anybody suggest the best location for this; Under the bonnet, or in the boot?
-
Hi,Percy. If I want to lift all 4 wheels off the ground, I place the jack under the door (half way along the chassis)& jack from side to side,rather than front to rear.(Similar To Dave, above). Best wishes, Paul
-
Yes, TR6s do look rather good in Black; There was a v.smart black one with highly polished Wolfrace or Cobra Supaslot wheels & an SAH style ('wheel barrow handles')exhaust,going 'round Bournemouth in the mid '80s,when I was at school; That & the Mimosa Yellow(my fave TR6 colour) CR that lived near the school bus stop were contributing factors toward my desire for a '6 of my own later in life!
-
Hi Inge, I use the K&N unit(bought from Rimmers)that's a straight swop for the standard filter. I also cut a pair of (approx) 2.5" holes in the filter casing. This all seemed to make my(otherwise un-modified)TR smoother running & more responsive; the filter I replaced was only a year old,& not too grubby,so it wasn't just the benefit of changing v.old components for new. All the best, Paul.
-
Thanks for the advice chaps; much appreciated, Paul.
-
Hi everybody. I've just fitted a chrome rocker cover(TR5 style; I bought it at Stoneleigh), on Troy, my 1970 TR6. Does anybody know where I can get a matching chrome or stainless steel filler cap; the one that's with it doesn't seal well(I had a puddle of oil on top of the r/c after a recent blast up the motorway), and my 'original' cap is a bit grotty! Many thanks, Paul.
-
Thanks, Stuart.
125 0r 150 cam
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I've also heard other reasons for detuning the engine at the end of '72; To get rid of the lumpy idle & improve mpg, or possibly BL were embarrassed by the (relatively)cheap & cheerful TR6 being faster than the more expensive Stag...? Best wishes,Paul