TR Paul
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Posts posted by TR Paul
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Thanks, Rich. Much appreciated!
Best wishes, Paul.
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Good evening fellow TRists, just a quick random question.... can anybody tell me how long a TR6 propshaft (compressed) is, please?
Cheers,
Paul.
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If there's no salt,Keep using the car!
Depending on what part of the UK (if you are in the UK!) you're in, there are enough mild spells in 'winter', these days.
Happy TRing!
Best wishes,
Paul.
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Hi Chaps, as some of you might recall, I've recently been gassing on about a rear end 'clonk', on TRoy,my beloved 1970 TR6 pi. I've now traced the problem (hopefully!) to the rearmost diff mounting bushes, where the steel tube insert has parted company with the rubber portion of the bush. Obviously the solution to this problem is to replace the aforementioned bushes, which I'm planning to do.Also, I'm considering purchasing a pair of 'Racetorations' cup style washers to replace the standard plain washers, thus giving improved support & location (& hopefully increased longevity) to the mounting bushes. If Racetorations publicity is to be believed, a combination of standard rubber bushes & their 'Diff cups' should offer the advantages of poly bushes, with the 'comfort'(!) & low stress (to the mounting pins) of rubber ones. However, they are quite expensive, at £90+p&p per pair.
Has anybody used these items? Do they offer genuine advantages, or are they just something else to empty the wallet,& boast about in the pub?
As ever, your opinions & advice will be much appreciated,
Cheers, Paul.
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Morning, fellow TR6ers. I believe that I have finally found the source of my infamous 'rear end clunks' & vibrations; After a couple of months of fannying about with drive-shafts, prop-shafts, UJs etc, I decided yesterday to bite the bullet, & drop the diff, so that I could inspect the mounting pins. To my (pleasant) surprise, the pins were in good condition, no splits or breakages etc, & as I suspected, a P.O. had reinforced & 'boxed in' the mounting with steel plating. What I did find was that the two rearmost mounting rubbers were shot, the steel tube had broken away from the rubber, giving the rear of the diff freedom of movement! On the one hand this was refreshing, in that it will be a (relatively) cheap & easy fix, but then on the other hand it is intensely irritating, as the rubber mounts are barely 3 years old! (I bought them from Moss in Oct 2014 when I had to replace the front mounting plate; wish I'd kept the old ones!
)A big thanks to all who gave advice on this issue
,Cheers, Paul.
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My Dad tells me that a very good friend of my his, used to have these tyres (probably Dunlop SP sport) on 6.5" or 7" J.A. Pierce alloy wheels, on his TR6 in the early-mid '70s; Apparently, 'til He & Dad fitted uprated rear springs & telescopic dampers, the tyres would scuff on the rear wheel arches. I bet it looked good though! (Sadly we have no photos
)All the best, Paul.
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''I see a red car, and I want to Paint it Black''
The Rolling Stones (1966 (pre TR6) as well!)
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Hi Peter, thanks for the hub info; sounds like a new hub is the way to go, especially as Moss have got a 15% sale at the moment.
Niall, the diff pins haven't been reinforced. I checked them when I had the diff out 3 years ago, to change the diff front mounting plate (which had broken). After that incident, I now check the nuts on the pins for tightness, every time I check the diff oil level (3 or 4 times a year); I assume the pins would twist when I put a spanner on the nuts..? I believe (& hope!) my problem is driveshaft related, as when I 'serviced' the d/s last weekend, the clunking did go away (for a short while...). I'd imagine if the problem was with the diff pins, none of this work would've made any difference; but it wouldn't be the first time I've been wrong about these things!
Cheers, Paul
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Hello again my fellow TR6ers... As some of you may remember, a couple of weeks ago I was probing your massive intellects for info regarding the classic clunks suffered at the rear axles of our beloved TR6s (& all other IRS TRs for that matter). Last Sunday, I removed the suspected O/S drive shaft, cleaned & greased the sliding splines as well as greasing both UJs (the outer one hadn't been done in at least 10 years).I detected a small amount of play in the splines, but fresh grease seemed to cure that, & a 15-20 mile test drive seemed to reveal that the problem might be cured.... However, the next day I went to visit a friend, in TRoy (my TR6!), & (surprise, surprise!) the clunk had returned (although not as audibly as before). I suspect that the grease on the splines had redistributed itself during the initial run, & everything had settled.
My next step is to fit a new drive shaft (I've got one I picked up at the IWE a couple of years ago), but I'm not sure what to do about the hub. The one that's on there seems in good shape, and has no play, but who knows how old the bearings etc are? Whilst everything's apart, it might be worth fitting a recon unit. Also, I'm not confident at my skill to change a U/J. With a new hub, I could take it all to my friendly local garage & get them to do the U/J. This also brings up the question of where's the best place to go for recon hubs...? There seems to be a big difference in prices (£125-£200+).
As ever your advice on these points will be much appreciated,
Cheers,
Paul.
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Hi fellow TR6ers, hope you're all well today. This morning, I removed Troys' n/s driveshaft, greased the outer u/j, cleaned, inspected & greased the splined section of the shaft. As I may have mentioned I've never had that one off the car (in 10 years).The splines were quite dry,& I could feel movement in the shaft as I twisted it in my hand. After replacing it all back on the car (and swearing a bit 'cause of the exhaust being in the way!), I went out for a test run in the glorious sunshine. Result: the 'clunk' would seem to have gone,for now; let's see how long that situation lasts for....
Many thanks for your help & advice,
Best wishes,
Paul.
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Thanks, Stuart/Pete, I am running standard bolt-on steel wheels.
Cheers,
Paul.
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Thanks Sapphire, I'll have a look at that too; I've got Spax telescopics on TRoy, but their mounting brackets are fitted where the lever arms used to live.
Best wishes, Paul.
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Thanks for the advice. I will go down the easy (my favourite way!) route first - o/s drive shaft removal followed by greasing of splines & outer U.J. (I did the n/s one just before the IWE); I've also got a spare (good as new) drive shaft if needs be. My previous experience of diff mounting problems consisted of the front diff mounting bracket (the big one that is attached to the front of the diff and joins the diff to the chassis pins) breaking whilst pulling out of an Asda car park; This made an almighty 'bang', and made the car un-driveable over 20 mph; this is what I'd expect with diff mounting problems. However, it wouldn't be the first time I've been wrong about these kind of things (although I hope I am in this instance..!), & my experience is relatively limited.
Again, many thanks for your help,
Best wishes, Paul.
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Evening chaps... I've recently noticed on TRoy (My 1970 TR6pi) an irritating 'clunk' from the vicinity of the rear axle (not unusual on a TR6, I hear you cry!). It happens when I take up the drive after gear changes, and can be remedied by being very gentle with the clutch. To my mind it feels like a U.J. This afternoon, as the sun was shining, I decided to investigate, but couldn't find any obvious problems: no noticeable play in any of the UJs, (which I greased whilst underneath;although I didn't remove the O/S driveshaft to check & grease the outer UJ), & all the diff mounting pins seem solid enough ( I replaced the front diff mounting bracket in 2014). The only issue I found was a an amount of play in the output shafts on the differential itself, but this has been like this in all the 10 years of owning the car.... Does this sound feasable, or am I missing something? Am I looking at a diff rebuild (hope not!!) As ever, your views & advice will be more than appreciated,
Best wishes,
Paul.
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Hi Waldi, I have a 70amp alternator (GXE2297) from Minispares, on TRoy, My 1970 TR6 p.i. These cost £60 (inc VAT), and are very good. If that's too powerful for your requirements, it's worth looking at Minispares, as all their stuff seems to be good quality, & cheaper (where appropriate) than the TR specialists. (P.S. I don't work for Minispares!!).
Good luck with you charging system,
Best wishes,
Paul.
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Hi Rich, I've got Fiamm twin air horns on my '6, The horns tuck in neatly inside the bumper (using the spare number plate bolt holes), & the compressor is mounted under the bonnet, below the radiator overflow bottle, so it's all fairly unobtrusive- till you give them a blast! They are easily available on the 'net', and sound great: I believe they were O/E on Ferraris, 'til fairly recently.
Good luck, whichever path you decide to follow,
Best wishes,
Paul.
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Hi Roger & Jogger. Just to be on the safe side, I fitted a new sliding joint gaiter (from Moss) this morning (I know, it will probably have split by the time I get to Malvern...). It's on the nearside, & was easy to do by unbolting the d/s from the diff, angling it upwards & toward the front of the car, and then sliding that end off the d/s. Obviously not so straightforward if you were doing the drivers' side, with the (standard pattern) exhaust in the way. Interestingly, the gaiter on the o/s shaft (which has never been off the car in 10 years of my ownership) still looks pretty good...
Many thanks for your advice,
Paul.
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Ok, Roger, thanks.
All the best, Paul.
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Hi Roger, many thanks for the info. It was whilst greasing the outer driveshaft U.J. that I spotted the problem. I think you might have the wrong end of the stick (or drive shaft in this case!); my problem is with the rubber boot that covers the sliding (splined) joint in the middle of the driveshaft, as opposed to that which covers the diff end U.J.
Cheers, Paul.
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Hello, my TR6ing friends.. How can you tell it's nearly IWE time? 'cos every time I go near TRoy, My beloved (most of the time..) TR6 pi, I find something else that needs fixing.... This time, it's the rubber boot on the sliding driveshaft joint, that's perished (well, it is 2 years old!). My question to you is this: Can this be changed by unbolting the 'diff end' of the drive shaft, & sliding that off (is there room?), or perhaps from the 'hub end' (similar principle); Or do I just take the whole lot out, and do it away from the car? As ever, your expertise will be much appreciated!
Cheers, Paul.
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Hi Peter/John, I must say I liked the stud idea, 'til you pointed out the shortcomings; helicoil sounds like the best answer to the problem.
Cheers, Paul.
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Thanks chaps,sounds like good advice. My manifolds are the ones with the open hole ( and I was using a longer bolt; D'oh!!!). I cut fine threads, as the parts lists from Rimmers & Moss say 5/16'' unf.....
Cheers, Paul.
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Good evening, fellow TR6ers... as some of you might recall, this time last week I was asking for your excellent advice regarding 'weeping banjos' on my TR6 metering unit. Today, I have tackled that problem (seemingly successfully, so far...), & fitted new 'o' rings to the aforementioned banjo bolts. However in the process of re-bleeding the injectors, I've found that the thread (for the bolt that holds the injector retaining plate) in the injector 1&2 manifold has stripped. I had recut this thread (5/16'' unf) last year, as a p.o. must have had similar problems, & he (or she) had wound in a fairly nasty metric bolt. I have made a temporary repair by winding some tape made by 'Scotch' as a kind of thread lock 'round the offending bolt, but I am looking for a more permanent soloution (without having to have my manifolds re-conditioned, or even removed from the car, if possible..). Perhaps using chemical metal, or something similar,& re-cutting the thread into that, Or just opening the hole out & cutting a bigger thread (for a bigger bolt!)? Any ideas? Your advice, as always, is much appreciated,
Cheers, Paul.
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Subtle, yet cunning....
Winterising... What do you do?
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I'm all for rustproofing- wheelarch liners, hammerite, waxoyl, etc. Also worth polishing chromework, & then adding a coating of WD40 to these surfaces.
Cheers,
Paul.