TR Paul
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Posts posted by TR Paul
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Good day to you all, I hope you & you're families are all keeping well.
I have a pair of Lucas 'Square 8' fog lamps fitted to TRoy, my 1970 TR6pi. These are wired through a relay, which takes one of it's live feeds from the sidelight circuit, meaning that they will only work if the sidelights are on (but they do have a separate switch). Recently I've noticed that if I turn the fog lamps are on, whilst the headlamps are on, the extra load applied to the fog lamps, causes the head lamps to dim. Do I need to consider fitting relay(s) for the headlights. If so, what's the best way of going about this: I seem to remember there being a feature on this, in TRaction 'Technicalities', a few years ago, but needless to say, I can't find it now!
As ever, your advice will be much appreciated,
Cheers,
Paul
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Great thanks,Tom. Most of the steady bars I've seen do look agricultural (other than the ones the Lancia boys used!), being just strips of ''Meccano' style exhaust bracketry.
All the best,
Paul.
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Hi TRTom, the Vitaloni mirrors do look very smart, and look 'period' on a TR6. They are available from Europa spares, at £36.00 each. I've been thinking of replacing the bullet mirrors on my '6 with them. Do they vibrate whilst driving? I've seen photo's of cars (incl 'works' Lancia rally cars from the '80s) fitted with those mirrors, assisted by a steady bar.
Cheers,
Paul.
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Thanks Rich!
Best wishes,
Paul.
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Hi Rich, so sorry I didn't get to see you at Stoneleigh yesterday.
I didn't fancy doing a 250 mile round trip in yesterdays' lovely weather... Hope you kept safe, & you made good business at the show. I'm still interested in the Rad cowl, so perhaps we could use the post or arrange collection at IWE?
Cheers,
Paul.
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Good evening fellow TR6ers...
You might be interested to know that I have had a new threaded 'live' post fitted to TRoys' starter motor. I accessed the nuts holding the motor on, via the transmission tunnel. This tunnel is now more duct tape than cardboard, so I might be investing in a new plastic replacement, sometime this year. A big thank you to all who have provided me with advice & encouragement, especially Dave & Mike.... Long live the Forum! (Stoneleigh here we come....)
Cheers,
Paul -
Ok, Rich.... I know where that is. If you could put one 'under the counter' for me, that would be marvellous! I would like a black 'non logo' air duct for a TR6 pi.
Cheers,
Paul.
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Great, thanks Rich... see you at Stoneleigh. Will your stall be easy to find?
Cheers,
Paul.
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Great, thanks Dave, that make it pretty clear..... be seeing you.
Cheers,
Paul
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Cheers, Dave. That would be marvellous.
Best wishes,
Paul.
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That'd be great John.... I'm off work this Tuesday & Wednesday; I'll get the kettle on.
Cheers,
Paul.
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Hi Mike/Dave, I am leaning towards your plan of removing the nut from inside the car... Is that nut easily accessible once the cardboard tunnel's out of the way (or an acceess hole's been cut)? I thought it was behind the (steel) bulkhead, although I have been wrong about these things, more than once before?
Cheers,
Paul.
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Thanks for all this good information. You might be interested to know that I attacked the offending post with a 5/16" UNC die this morning. The starter is still on the car, & there isn't room to use the die holder, so I was just using my (cold!) fingers & mole grips.... so (surprise, surprise) that didn't work.....
Next step is to remove the starter, & try to do the job properly (no, not usually my style!). The WOSP starters are a pain to remove, as the top bolt is replaced by a 3/8 UNF stud, with a nut on the g/box side, & accessibility is severely restricted, which is why I was reluctant to remove the starter; it's a struggle to even get a spanner on the nut! I did think of cutting the stud off with a Dremel,, but I'm not keen on sparks flying around, so close to the Injector manifolds..... Does anybody have any tips?
Cheers,
Paul.
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Hi Bruce, thanks for the WOSP info....that might be useful.
Best wishes,
Paul.
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Hi Pete, Rob & Graham. Thanks for your replies; You raise some interesting points. Sadly there isn't enough length on the stud for any washers; one of the downsides of the 'WOSP' starter is that the stud is already 1/2" to short at the best of times, & I've always used 'thread-lock' on the stud. I think I've just found a slim 5/16" UNC nut on my old O/E Lucas starter, so I might try that route. My plan (until I had my latest 'brainwave') was to take the starter off (a job I'm trying to avoid....), & get it repaired at a alternator/starter motor specialist I know of (or get my O/E Lucas unit rebuilt). This is of course what I shall be doing, if I make a pigs ear of the stud....
Cheers,
Paul.
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Good morning. As a follow on from my post last week about my TR6 charging issues, I thought I would ask for some more advice on my latest problem...
Whilst looking for the source of my charging problem, I found that the nut that holds the cables onto the starter motor were indeed lose (although this wasn't the cause of the charging problem). Naturally, I tried to tighten it, but the nut wouldn't tighten. It had obviously been loose for a while, as the cable 'eyes' had worn away the thread on the contact stud. It is a 'WOSP' hi-torque starter, & the thread is M8. I've tried cutting a new thread, but there isn't enough 'meat' (or copper/brass in this case) for the nut to grip onto. I'm now thinking of cutting a 5/16" thread, as this is the next smallest size, & a nut might have a better chance of gripping. My question is, should I go 'coarse' (UNC) or 'fine' (UNF)? I have the tools to cut either, loads of 5/16" UNF nuts, but not sure if I've got any UNCs. I realise this might not work at all, but it's got to be worth a try!
As ever your expertise & kind advice will be greatly appreciated,
Cheers,
Paul.
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Hi Rich, how much do you want for a black powder coated cowling for a TR6 pi; without the logo?
Cheers,
Paul.
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Thanks, Mike; subtle, yet cunning.....
Cheers,
Paul.
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Thanks, Waldi/Mike... I sprayed plus-gas on it this morning.
Cheers
Paul.
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Glad to hear you're ok, Mike. Our thoughts in England are with our Australian friends.
I did some investigating this morning, & found that it is indeed the bulb/bulb holder... if you gently push the bulb into the holder, it lights up. if you pull it, it lights up. But I don't think I can rely on it to maintain contact. I fitted it back into the r/counter, & with some fiddling, it would come on. I then started the engine, & hey presto, an almost instant + charge on the ammeter! Problem is, the bulb seems to be stuck the holder, so I can't change it or clean it up, tweak the contacts or whatever.... Does anybody have any tips on bulb removal?
Cheers,
Paul.
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Thanks, Mike. I was going to look at the bulb first, as this would be the easiest fix (although that kind of thing doesn't usually work out like that for me...). Hope you are keeping safe in 'Oz',
Best wishes,
Paul.
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Thanks, Waldi; my first check will be the charge lamp, & the relevant connections, followed (if necessary) by a session with my multi meter.
Best wishes,
Paul.
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Thanks for your replies, Michael & Rob: a couple of interesting points there..... The battery is 3 or 4 years old, & always holds a good charge between using the car (sometimes upto 2 weeks, at this time of year), but I did forget to mention in my 1st post, that when this problem first arose, the ign light (which is the standard item, no LEDs or anything; I've certainly never changed that bulb, in 12+ years that I've owned the car.) was very erratic, & now it doesn't work at all.....
Cheers, Paul.
Headlight Relay?
in TR6 Forum
Posted · Edited by TR Paul
additional information
Hi, Paul, Rob, Steve, Bruce & Matt... Thanks for taking time to responding to my questions. I especially like Matts' relay wiring diagram. TRoys' alternator is a 70 amp (Metro?) unit, from Minispares . I had it tested a couple of years ago, as I was having charging issues (which was actually a Fawlty ignition light), and it came back with a clean bill of health. I feel it is still working efficiently, as the ammeter always give a good reading, & there have been no other 'charging' related problems since I cured the ignition light problem (with much good advice & guidance from the TRR forum). The fuel pump is a Lucas unit. My fog lights take one live feed from the sidelight circuit, the other one coming from the fuse box.
Cheers,
Paul.