TR Paul
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Posts posted by TR Paul
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Morning chaps,, that's really useful information. Thank you all so much for your help on this matter.
Cheers,
Paul
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Happy New Year to all TR folks!
TRoy, my 1970 TR6 has an oil cooler/spin on filter conversion. Does anybody have a part number for a 'long' filter for this application. I know i should just get the number off the filter that's currently in situ, but the number is in-accessible, without removing the unit- obviously this will be my last resort. I have 2 part numbers (from the web) - Unipart GFE 227- which (according to local motor factors) just translates into the standard (BLMC)'Mini' filter, & Fram PH3600 which one of my local motoring shops (Motorists' centre, New Milton- excellent service, very helpful) had no reference to, and they're Fram dealers, & Fram FP 3600 which just cross references to another 'Mini' filter. If anyone has the relevant part number, i would be most grateful!
Cheers,
Paul
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Morning, chaps. This talk of MWS in Langley reminds of my friend David who owns a v.nice AH3000, mk3 (on wires).A few years ago, He was having trouble with wheel vibration, & mentioned this to a (well known) Healey specialist, who were doing some other work to the car at that time. They had a look at the wheels (which are proper Dunlop wires), & told him that they were past their best. They recommended new wheels, which they of course could sell him.... for quite a steep price. David lives near Windsor, and not too far from MWS, so he took the car there, to get a 'second opinion'. MWS gave the wheels a good clean-up, checked the spokes & rims, and balanced the wheels. All at a price considerably less than the Healey specialist was asking for; not bad when you consider that MWS make wire wheels, & could've easily made a 'quick buck' out of David (who by his own admission has a limited mechanical knowledge). Based on my friends' experiences with MWS, I'd certainly be talking to them if I had issues with wire wheels.
Cheers, Paul.
P.S. I don't have wires -TR6 steels in autumn/winter,, Cobra Supaslot alloys in Spring/Summer.
P.P.S. I have no links to MWS!
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Aston Martin also employed a 'town & country' horn switch. I've got some (non-period) Fiamm air horns on my '6, which replace the factory items, wired through the original relay. If Mr M.o.T man doesn't object to the level of 'stridentness', I can't see (or hear...?) the problem; horns are a safety feature, so there's no point in having quiet ones! (my old modified Austin A30s' air horns saved it from being squashed by a reversing Chelsea tractor in a a wet & dark car park, a few years back)
Cheers,
Paul.
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Hello, I know it's been a while since my last post, but i have investigated this issue further: The diff mounting pins seem solid enough, nothing seems to be fouling the propshaft or driveshafts & i can't detect any (unwanted!) movement in the T/A bushes - I'm starting to suspect that the noise might be coming from the T/A pivot bolts, rubbing against the bush inserts, as h-lighted by Bruce.
Cheers,
Paul.
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Hi Rich, nice to hear from you again. I had the rear end of the car on axle stands at the weekend, and had the engine running whilst in second gear, at around 2000rpm.... not a squeak.. I have a day off work tomorrow, and I hope to be putting your idea to the test, as well as Marcos' thoughts regarding telescopic dampers, as well as the other ideas that people have most generously put forward on the forum. I will report back with my findings!
Cheers,
Paul.
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Hi, Bruce thanks for your Interesting ideas: when you say Radius arms, do you mean the trailing arms? if so, this is something I will be investigating, but the noises disappear when i let the car coast, so I won't be getting my hopes up too high!
Best wishes,
Paul.
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Thanks for the diff plate tip, Stuart. I will look at that. It was new, in 2014 (the old one snapped, with a loud 'bang'!, but we all know about 'repro' parts... 'Z', thank you for your oil tip. I had thought that it could be the diff itself. I did check the oil level up in February, & I've done less than 50 miles, since, but an easy check/fix, so well worth looking at! Again thank you all for your sage advice!,
Cheers,
Paul.
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Hi Roger,
I see what you mean, maybe i didn't write that very well It was as I was turning the n/s wheel, with the car jacked to one side, so the o/s wheel was on the ground, to see if there was any (unwanted) movement in the UJs... hope that makes sense now!
Cheers,
Paul.
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Thanks Roger. I had discounted the diff pins, earlier in this situation, as I had been turning the drive shafts 'against' opposite wheel on the ground (engine in gear)- if that makes sense(?)- to test the U.Js, & could only see slight movement of the diff, as it flexed on its' rubber mountings, but now as most other possibilities seem to have been eliminated, I will definitely be following you guidance.
Many thanks,
Paul.
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My 1970 TR6 PI (TR0y), has been making some interesting/irritating noises, coming from the general direction of the rear axle/suspension. This started last summer (as I was leaving the IWE at Malvern), as a squeek, only detectable at low speed, & has progressed to being a noise somewhere between a squeaking & scraping noise, which only occurs, when the car is 'under load'. I have investigated,greased, changed & eliminated wheel bearings(hubs), drive shaft UJs etc. I've checked & greased the propshaft UJs & its' sliding joint (this unit was reconditioned 3 years ago when I had the G/Box & O.D rebuilt & replaced). The noise is especially noticeable when accelerating from junctions, or going over speed humps: However, I can drive along a straight, quiet piece of road at 25-30mph with this noise in 'full chat', & it will instantly disappear if I knock the lever out of gear, & let the car coast. Does anyone have any ideas,anything I might have missed, or is it time to remove the diff, & have a look at the mounting pins.
As ever, your advice & knowledge, will be more than appreciated,
Best wishes,
Paul
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Thanks so much for the information, chaps. Tiger tool G-clamp adaptation looks good.
Cheets,
Paul
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Thanks Darren, that'd be great.
Best wishes,
Paul.
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Hi Chaps, I was reading posts on the forum a couple of years ago, regarding propshafts, drive shafts, & UJs, etc. Somebody had recomended a tool which made extracting UJs quite straight forward, which is something I'd be interested in purchasing. However, after much searching on the forum, I can't find it anywhere; does anyone have any ideas...?
Cheers,
Paul.
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Nice one Rob, glad you got that sorted.
Cheers,
Paul
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Hi Rob,I had a similar problem a few years ago, & it was the steel tube insert on one of the diff mountings had come 'unglued' from the rubber: it was an easy fix, after a long & frustrating search!
Cheers,
Paul.
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Or SAE 140.....
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3 in 1 it is then! Thanks Nigel, Roger, Kev & Alfrom; that's much appreciated.
Alfrom- I think Halogen Grease would be better for H/Lamps....
Cheers,
Paul.
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Hello Chaps... I've bought a set of 'Maserati' air horns, for TRoy, my 1970 TR6. There's a label on the compressor that says lubricate monthly with 'Light oil'; My question is, what would 'Light oil' be defined as? I was thinking of using '3-in-1' Your advice would be much appreciated,
Best wishes,
Paul. -
Hi Rich, thanks for your reply. I wasn't doubting your word, I was just trying (rather clumsily!) to express my level of interest- i am need of a radiator for my '6, & your item couldn't have come along at better time! Having read your PM, I will be in touch soon.
Best wishes,
Paul.
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Hi Rich, I am if this rad is as good as it you describe it, I'm very interested!
Cheers,
Paul. -
Hi Dan, I had a similar 'clunk' with my '6' ('Troy') a couple of years ago; the steel tubes had un-glued themselves from the insides of the diff mounting bushes. This took someone of my limited intelligence quite a while to work out, but ended up being a fairly cheap & easy fix!
Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Paul.
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Good evening, fellow TR6ers, hope you are all coping well with the Covid 19 situation.... If you are looking for something to cheer yourself up with, the late '60s/early '70s childrens' TV series Catweazle is currently being shown on 'Talking Pictures TV' (freeview ch81), Wednesdays, 5.00pm. This week, the episode is 'The Magic Face', which includes a guest appearance from a Damson TR6 (an early factory demonstrator, I believe).
Happy viewing, & Happy TR-ing!,
Cheers,
Paul.
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Hi Rob, good point; I haven't had a chance to try the lights out (with the engine running, as you described). I will report back, when I've done this.
Cheers,
Paul.
Heater matrix
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Hi Geoffrey, if the matrix is leaking it might be worth trying some K-seal (a modern improvement on the Radweld concept); it worked on my TR6. This will cost £10-£12, and take around 30mins, rather than the expense & hassle of changing the matrix: if it doesn't work, then start thinking about changing the matrix?
Cheers,
Paul.