dpb
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Posts posted by dpb
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It occurred to me that perhaps there is such a thing as a two-piston brake cylinder, which would on the face of it seem a good idea. Is there such a thing for the rear brakes?
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Hi Peter
Yep I see a used RH one is available at Rimmers, but not a left hand. I'll have a go with the welder I think as you suggest.
Dave
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A bit of sideways adjustment with a Brummagem screwdriver, and I can see that indeed the handbrake pivot has worn a grove in both backplates. New backplates I guess.
Thanks
Dave.
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Great advice as usual Stuart and Roger. I'll have a cup of tea and have a good look again.
Dave
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I'm wrong again then!
Just had another look and there is no sliding anywhere. And if it does slide it must take the brake pipe with it, which seems odd.
A bit of grease needed perhaps.
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Hello.
Just been bleeding my brake system after renewing various bits, but not the rear brake cylinders. On testing it seems that the cylinder is only pushing out one piston, the forward pointing one, same on each side. I'm assuming that a piston should push from both ends of the cylinder. otherwise only one shoe is moving. Is that right, or am I wrong again?
Cheers Dave
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Ah yes. That makes a lot of sense. I guess I have planned the hoses to go on the wrong sides! A few minutes thought would have shown me I was wrong. But then I seem to lose all logic when working under a car for some reason.
Thankyou Peter.
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Hello
I am rebuilding the rear end, and have come to installing new hoses and brake pipes. I notice that on the right hand side the brake hose has a flat end where it joins the chassis pipe, and a normal pointy end where it joins the trailing-arm pipe. Is there any good reason for this? I'm puzzled how you can get a good seal with the flat end into what looks like a normal point receptacle on the chassis pipe.
Cheers
Dave
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Hi
I have been replacing springs and bushes at the rear of my 4a, and decided to replace some rubber fuel pipe whilst I was under there. I bought some R14 Barricade for the job. The long bit of rubber from just short of the fuel tank outlet to the metal pipe ( I think it should be a short bit, but on mine was about 2ft long) was R6 and looked newish, but I decided to change it anyway. I drained the tank, pulled the rubber off, and as I was doing so a short bit of rubber pipe, just at the rear of the o/d gearbox, ripped in half and came away! This piece was rotten and looked like it was an original fitting. There was another short and very old piece just short of where the pipe bends upwards to the pump, where there is yet another bit of pipe that has been replaced. They will all be replaced with Barricade now.
Imagine if the rotten piece had been left in place and eventually rotted through, whilst travelling and leaving me stranded or worse.
I guess the rubber could have just been rotten through age, but more likely the e-petrol I reckon.
Dave
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hurray!
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3 hours ago, ianc said:
Stuart is certain to be correct, but perhaps this caters for foreigners (whoops - not permitted to use such terminology nowadays) who have 3 legs?
Ian Cornish
Almost everybody has 3 legs where I live...
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Hi, from what i read it said 8mm id. Hope that is right.
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Thanks Stuart. I ordered it. It says free delivery, but I'm waiting until they see it has to go to the Isle of Man......f
Dave
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Hi
I have been googling for some fuel hose - Gates 4219-06038 R14, 5/16th but unable to find any. Moss is out of stock. Does anyone have an alternative supplier?
Cheers
Dave
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I've only just caught up with this, been away in England for a week. A couple of things, I stopped using the forum a few years ago, for a month or two, because someone was personally rude to me about an opinion I had. I came back though as it is hard to stay away when looking for friendly advice. And that advice was very, very, very often from Roger. In most cases he was first to respond and usually correct. I always look for his posts, even when they are not related to what I am looking for.
Living where I do, this forum is my local club branch. It keeps me in touch with things as well as all the technical stuff. I will miss Roger's input and hope he comes back on.
Regarding the subject matter, it must be right to voice an opinion, even if others disagree, surely that is the free speech that we all value.
regards
Dave
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And, yes it was that easy. If only I'd marked them first....
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They are sliding splines, with a screw cap but no rubber sleeve in the middle. So.... just undo the cap and slide them apart? Sounds like a good solution, if its that easy.
Dave
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Thanks all. I had already removed the handbrake fixing and nut so its not that (pity). The problem is at the drum end, the hole just doesn't seem big enough, and I am loathe to do much bashing about. I'll have another wrestle tomorrow. Thanks for the tip on the torque, I think I had read that somewhere, but the nuts did seem very easy to take off!
Cheers
Dave
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mmmm. it all comes out except the last bit! i.e. the yoke and flange at the end. Some not very careful measurement seems to show it will not come out. The outer axles are newish. Is there a technique, or are they all very tight?
Dave
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Thank you Stuart. I'll give a gentle whack then.
Dave
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Hello
I've undone the 6 nuts seemingly holding the hub/axle to the trailing arm, but nothing is moving. Have I missed something or does it need a good whack?
Is the backplate supposed to come with the axle shaft, or is it somehow differently affixed?
Cheers
Dave
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Indeed it does. Anyway 3 hacksaw cuts later and its all off. Now for some cleaning up and reassembly with lovely new shiny parts. That's the best bit.
Cheers
dave
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Hi Stuart
Actually i made a mistake, the bolt goes through the semicircular chassis bit, from the front facing face, with the nut on the rear face. If I could undo the nut, which I cant at the moment, the bolt would then foul on the heelboard of the rear seating. I feel a hacksaw moment coming on.
Dave
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Hello
In the process of sorting out the back end, I have decided to renew brake pipes and fixings. However, the bolt (item 20 in the TR4a spares manual page 198, or item 86 in the Moss catalogue page 60,) to remove the 3-way union fouls the chassis (the semi circular bit) when you attempt to undo. It is all corroded and really needs replacing. Is there some special way of getting this out? Or was it put in the wrong way round?
Thanks
Dave
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4a irs brake cylinders
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Thanks both. I reckon I'll go down the weld and grease route first and see how it goes. I'm sure it will work. I like the sound of two pistons though, seems to be more logical than sliding everything else.
Cheers
Dave
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