John Morrison
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Posts posted by John Morrison
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David if you have new pipe, not yet cut to length then, if you are concerned, slide a bit extra down the copper - say an inch or so and fit two clips half an inch apart.
Can't see you'll have an issue then
John.
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just to make sense of the above threads a photo appeared of a cable tied compressed coil spring.
We consider this a dangerous example so have hidden from view.
John.
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IF your only issue is an irritating noise put some silicone or mastic over it
John
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Registers own since Flint's days, now with two moderns as well. one claim was dealt with brilliantly.
That's the 'REAL' cost of insurance.
John.
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On 2/26/2024 at 7:54 PM, Belsey said:
Thank you all for your helpful advice. The car has done 1500 miles since last years service but as it was included in the buying price and didn't have to pay for it I've no idea what was actually included or what they did. I really would love to have a pop myself but when I say I haven't got a clue I really mean it, I couldn't be less mechanically or engineering minded if I tried, It all goes straight over my head. I really don't have the confidence to even change the oil and I panic in case I will mess it up and makes things worse if I try myself. I fitted a new alternator last year which as you know involved undoing 1 bolt, I was so chuffed with myself you would have thought I had invented the wheel! I would genuinely love to buy the tools and try myself but I'm so clueless I just don't have the confidence or even know where to even start.
Hello Belsey, - a name would be nice? I'm John.
Your key here is to initially get some help of the 'On Hands' variety. As others have said, pretty simple cars really, most
of us here, that do everything from tinker with our Tr's to total rebuilds, (a) wouldn't go near our modern Euro boxes, and we all had to start somewhere with our older steeds.
Find the local TR Register Group Meeting, your profile doesn't show that you are are member, that may or not be the case, they are not always accurate.
That said you can attend a local group for a time or two, even if you have not yet joined, ask around the folk there for help. I would be very disappointed if you didn't get any response - sure you will.
But don't sell yourself short, presumably you check the oil level on the dipstick? Coolant level in the radiater? fluid levels in the brake and clutch master cylinders? Tyre pressures? if you do then you don't know nothing, and as said before everyone starts with not knowing the business end of a greese gun!
Finally if all this maintainence stuff won't ever be for you, then the local group will surely advise on where to take your TR, and where not to take your TR for servicing,
and to answer your initial question, Yes nigh on £800 for a TR service would seem a tad on the high side.
Very finally with the milage you have covered since last year, I don't think this is urgent - ask around, approach th elocal TR folk, and report back to us on some outcomes.
John.
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Just so Tom and thanks for all your help on our forum
John
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Way you go Adrian, another reason to be chuffed!
John.
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Thought a TR3B was on a steering rack?
John
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Yes just prise them away from the arm
John
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You shouldn’t Graham gentle sideways persuasion should prevail
John
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Sorted thanks to Peter
John
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Just as the title,
not fussed what style, just anything that will screw on
to the very fine thread on a sidescreen short gearlever.
John.
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I just clicked on Peters link and went straight there?
John.
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Don’t know why this was hidden and first time ever we accessed an approval box in the post
Likely part of the IT upgrades and now sorted
John
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Hi Adrian how you doing?
re this bush I’d get every bit of rubber off, hacksaw Stanley knife and finish with 40 grit sandpaper
when all you have is shiny then I would try heat on the remaing tube
try warming it up and then tapping it along the pin with a hammer and chisel if you get movement then moles could work but having them tight enough tends to squash the tube onto the pin
angle grinder is the last resort cause you can easily damage the pin
John
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8 minutes ago, Ian Vincent said:
Rob, its not about the "Suitable and sufficient' the HASAW "Working at Height' legislation virtually bans working from ladders for jobs like that. I used to be involved in maintenance work and can remember when the act came in (early 2000s?), we had to change all our working practices to avoid falling foul of the legislation. Fortunately we were on a single site and could use cherry pickers for things like gutter cleaning.
Rgds Ian
Exactly, what would a cherry picker and operative cost a day, compared to 100 Mts. plus of two storey scaffolding?
John.
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We used to own a propper chippy.
It was in a terrace of eight shops, each with a single story flat above.
It had a continuous gutter running end to end, and another at the back.
In the early eighties two men would come with a ladder and a bucket, one would support the ladder whilst the other went up with the bucket, and wearing gloves
and cleaned out the debris from the gutter, they weren't fast and it took them all day to complete the job.
Move along thirty years and two wagons arrive say six guys, take at least a day to erect scaffolding the length of the row, front and rear, plywood protection over the plate glass windows and plywood porches leading to the shop doorways,
Scaffolding was probobly up three weeks in total, to get the same job done.
So 1980's cost two men x one day, a ladder and a bucket, (Call them new say £150) total for the job + tops £350!
2010 six guys x two, plus the scaffold, lets say the same two guys to clean the gutters, total for the job, at a guess £20K ?
Can't see this is progress, but it might be why our Council Tax is what it is, or why they can't fill in potholes, or change street lamp bulbs or, or or ?
Signed grumpy old man, and proud of it.
John.
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Eli,
wonderful photos, and belated birthday greetings - 41,
'You're nowt but a lad!'
John.
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Shame would be nice?
that said you have a PM
a personal message
John
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Got there said 'hello' to folks, but it was busy!
Had a thoroughly great weekend of it.
Yes roll on IWE.
John.
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Pipe out of pump is 5/16th, and yes if you have a braided pipe then it absolutely needs changing, though I just run rubber, (1/4) between my carbs.
jJst changing all my rubber fuel pipes to Gates Barricade, Ethanol resistant, make sure you use same or similar.
John.
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Any forumites down at Stoneleigh this Sunday fancy an ‘Hello’ suggest the Register Stand 1.00PM
John
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Likely but some thoughts here
Removing the front apron can be an onerous task, if it’s been on the car a long time You only need a couple of the cage nuts to break the cages and it becomes very hard work
I ran a wide belt for years and in the day we carried a spare wrapped in foil or cling film cable tied to the cross member so in the event of a fan belt failure a spare was easily fitted The problem was getting the belt between the crossmember and fan extension needed to slacken an engine mount a lift the sump to slide through
hence doing this in the garage rather than roadside
Rob some outside the box thinking might help you
e.g. have you got room to lift the rad off it’s mount s leave the hoses connected and fiddle the belt over th end of the extension?
or with a helper levering the engine backwards against its mounts will that’Buy’ you just enough space?
Don’t forget if you try anything like this to protect the rad core it will need to be thin for you to succeed- maybe Ally?
John.
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Wasn't the TR his mechanics, Leo Villiers car?
John.
Starter motor pinion nut
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Fabrice beat me to it
John