keith1948
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Posts posted by keith1948
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I have been down this route before........
The soft Surrey top needs the windscreen capping that sticks out more than the drop head soft top capping. This is to allow the front of the Surrey soft top to tuck underneath at the front. Mine was a bit tight but with bits of wood and a lever bar I managed to raise the front enough to fit the Surrey soft top underneath. I didn't use any wedges. Once fitted the Surrey capping also works for the original drop head top that has two release levers fastened on the inside of the top of the windscreen frame. The drop head capping is not suitable for the Surrey soft top because you can't fit the front of the Surrey under it.
The H frame fits into the backlight holes first and the windscreen top second. There are rubber fittings that go into the holes on the front capping that the front of the H frame fits into.
Fit the front of the Surrey soft top under the capping first and then fit the rear locating pins into the holes of the backlight top. It helps if the car is in the sun and the vinyl is then softer. As well as the 4 studs (one at each corner) there are 2 on the end of the middle bar of the H frame. As Roger has said there are 4 more on the flap under the middle of the soft top which folds around the centre bar of the H frame and clips onto 4 poppers riveted onto the frame. At the top of the A and B posts there are little hooks that are for attachment of the elastic tape that should be fastened to the corners of the soft top. On your 2nd photo I can just see one of these between the top of the side window and frame and attached to the backlight frame.
The back should not lift up in the middle. Below I have attached links (hopefully) where I have posted several photos in the past showing various parts of the Surrey fitting points with some measurements.
Keith
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Hi Ian
Take your old pro-shaft to Proptech and they will take a quick look at it and tell you if it can be balanced or not. I have done that and they said it was too worn so a new one was required. Didn't have the funds at the time though for a new one so put old one back on the car. I did fit their uprated drive shafts though and they were excellent.
Keith
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Thanks Ian
I will look into that
Keith
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The only thing I would add to this conversation is - if like me you have an imported car from USA then the log book on mine begins in 1990 when it arrived back in UK. It is marked as historic and exempt on the registration document but in order to avoid any issues with over enthusiastic police in France I got my car FIVA registered to prove its history from 1965. Maybe a bit over the top but might be useful. I also have the Heritage certificate from Gaydon which shows when it was built and exported to USA.
As far as I am aware classic (historic or old timer) cars are exempt across the EU and in the UK. The Critair site I find confusing at best.
Keith
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Hi John
Look in Moss 2-4A catalogue and on page 32 overdrive there are the 2 O-rings marked at each end of the operating shaft item 55. I have replaced the one at the solenoid end before but can't remember if you can do it without removing the end plate.
Keith
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Hello
Recently did mine. Disconnect battery earth. Undo the several screws that hold sender to tank and disconnect wires. You need a right angle driven screwdriver head in a socket or something similar to access the slots in the dome head screws. I also had to cut a crescent moon shaped piece of metal off the flange that the boot back board screws to to get sender out on my TR4A with tank in place. Retain the fibre washers that should be under the dome head of the screws.
I got a Viton gasket from Moss and used Hylomar Blue sealant. Put sealant on the threads of the dome head screws and make sure you refit the fibre washers or you may get petrol fumes in the boot as Chris has said. You also need to have an earth wire. I used a ring (washer) type connector under one of the fibre washers and connected the earth wire between that and the car body. There has to be an earth between the top flange of the sender and the car body for it to work. In theory the dome head screws should provide the earth link between the sender and the tank which in theory is then earthed to the car body via its fixing bolts. However the fibre washers are between the top of the dome head screws and the sender top and the Viton gasket is between the sender top and the tank. This means the only earth route is via the threads of the screws and the sides of the fixing holes which is not ideal. Far better I think to put an earth wire from top plate of sender direct to car body. Just make sure it is below a fibre washer and not above.
The Green/Black wire connects to the sender spade connector. The other end of this wire is the fuel gauge.
The most difficult bit was removing the sender. Note that there is an O ring on the float on mine. You should replace that with a Viton O ring. It isn't essential but is the anti-rattle ring. Without it you will hear the float banging on the tank occasionally. I forgot to fit mine which is how I know. The original rubber ring had swollen slightly with ethanol and fallen off into the tank.
Good luck
Keith
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Peter W
Your explanation of different flaring types is really useful and informative. I think mostly I have encountered bubble flare but really useful to know what to look out for.
Keith
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1 hour ago, Hamish said:
From experience of having to have boiler parts replaced the condensate from condensing boilers is very corrosive so steer clear of this stuff don’t reuse for anything.
Thanks Hamish and Z320
This is well worth knowing. I shall steer clear of it unless I need some carbonic acid for anything.
Keith
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Just a thought but I guess you could use the condensate from the central heating condensing gas boiler for the radiator and battery. Interestingly the plastic bottles full of water I collected from the freezer ice have not frozen up even though the garage is minus 3. I have noticed this before. Maybe ice needs to form around impurities in water? The water is supercooled maybe.
Keith
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Hi Richard
In answer to your original question use blue antifreeze 50:50. For water equivalent to distilled/deionised I use the water from the ice when we defrost the fridge and chest freezer.
In this freezing weather the only problem with the TR water based solutions is the screen wash bottle. I don't use modern screen wash because I have the push button screen wash system. Inside that is a rubber bellows that 'dissolves' into a sticky lump if I use screen wash. I just add a couple of drops of washing up liquid. The heat from the engine will thaw it out eventually.
Keith
p.s. minus 12C here and a tropical plus 5C in the house. The garage is minus 3C. Time to get the deckchairs and Pimms.
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Hello Dave
Not part of MOT test.
Sometimes had similar problems with my speedometer. Making sure the cable was aligned in a smooth curve to back of speedo helped. Make sure there are no tight bends in the cable anywhere.
It could also be the unit itself as Bob has suggested. Some old grease maybe found its way inside over the years. You could unscrew the cable from the back of the units and pull out the inner part and clean that up. I then wipe it with a cloth with some thin oil just to smear the surface of the inner cable. Does it read correctly at 30 and 60mph?
Keith
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Hello George
In order to avoid any discussion/confusion with over enthusiastic gendarmes I got a FIVA registration about 3 or 4 years ago. This clearly shows that the car is historic. I did this because my car (4A) is a USA import that arrived in UK in 1990 so UK documents date from that time although it does say 'Historic' in the small print. The FIVA registration gives you a windscreen sticker and a passport style document to show the car's status.
As I understand the situation, you are exempt and can drive in the low emission zones both here and in the EU.
Keith
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Hello Dady
If you had the problem with the original motor and the replacement then it looks like the problem isn't the motor. Check the rack is free to move as Roger has posted and also check the wiring connections and earths as Bob and I have suggested. I have a 2 speed on my 4A and the problems I had as I said before was simply the fuse loose in the holder. Go for the simple things before embarking on changing racks or motors.
There is a guy from Classic and Vintage Dynamos based in Shirebrook near Mansfield who often has a stall at auto jumbles who can probably supply a 2 speed motor. (Tel 01623 747666) He doesn't have a website. I got a refurbished one from him a while ago to replace the one that wasn't faulty in the end. As I have said it was simply the loose fuse.
Keith
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Hello Dady
I had a problem similar to you and it turned out to be a loose fuse in the fuse box. Check your electrical connections are clean and tight. It was the bottom fuse in the fuse box on my 4A. I closed up the clips a bit and it has been fine since.
Keith
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Hello John
Maybe use of hard poly bush instead of rubber bushes on suspension for normal road use might be cause of hard ride?
Keith
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I have found a supplier of Krooklok keys
https://www.oskeys.co.uk/lowe-fletcher-93901-94000
Simply enter your key number into the search box and it should come up. My key is a 93 series number.
Keith
p.s. this company also does classic car keys
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Hello Richard
I have one of those Krooklok with the yellow central box and red ends. The key number is not visible on the lock itself. On the key it is stamped Krooklok on both sides and there is a 5 digit number. It is similar to the FS/FP types but there are no FS or FP letters on the key so not exactly the same.
You will have put the keys in a 'safe' place as we all do and then you forget where the 'safe' place is. I suggest you start with the glove box and work outwards!
Good hunting
Keith
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7 minutes ago, RobH said:
The only thing you haven't mentioned is putting in fresh fuel...........
Have you perhaps topped up recently with something contaminated - or if not, could the stuff in the tank have gone stale?
(Yes the priming lever pumps as you let go, not when you press it. )
Rob beat me to it. Two of us had a similar problem with a 4A and a 3 after filling up at a supermarket about 3 or 4 years ago. Fresh fuel from a different garage and all back to normal.
Keith
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Hi Willie
Matchsticks, Araldite, body filler etc might work for a while but not the way a carpenter would do it. Get a piece of dowel about 5 or 6mm diameter, drill out the hole to same diameter, cut dowel to length and insert into hole using wood glue. Once it has set, smooth off top of dowel using a small file, then drill holes for the screws using correct drill size which can be found by measuring the screw and looking it up on the internet. Wood screws need the hole pre drilled or the wood splits.
Keith
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Hi Bob
Very impressive. I guess you would call that a vented drum?
Keith
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2 hours ago, Lebro said:
I would venture to say that an out of balance propshaft produces more of a "thrumming" vibration than a "shimmy"If wheels ar definately in balance check the balance of the brake drums, I found mine to be well out of balance, & by drilling holes in the right place my vibration (at 60 mph ish) has gone away.
Bob
Hi Bob
How do you balance brake drums - never done that before. Presumably discs need balancing as well but not done that either.
Propshaft vibration will be different depending on whether you are in overdrive or not in my experience.
Keith
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Once the gauge has been set up (by nudging levers etc) then I would have thought that was that. Once the empty and full positions have been set then they should not need doing again. Roger has reported a steady drift in his fuel reading which might mean a drift in the solid state VR voltage or a drift in the resistance of the sender? Is the gauge prone to drift and needs resetting regularly? Not come across this myself.
Maybe our electrical expert Bob can advise?
Keith
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Hello Roger
Hope you are well
I had a look at this sort of issue when I had a problem with our Ford Fiesta sender which is part of the fuel pump unit that sits in the fuel tank. The pump had failed so I ordered a new unit from Germany. The pump on the new unit was fine but the sender was back to front i.e. reading full when empty and empty when full. So I reversed the wires only to discover that the resistance of the sender wiring was wrong so that it no longer read accurately. I played around fitting resistors but that didn't seem to work because I ended up with a variable resistance with an offset. The fuel sender has a number of turns of resistance wire and the moving bit travels up and down to give the variable resistance for the fuel gauge as I understand it. The sender will either work or not. If it doesn't then there is probably a break in the wire. However if it is working of sorts then try cleaning up the connections at the tank end and the fuel gauge. Make sure there is a good earth from the sender plate that is screwed into the top of the tank. There is a fibre gasket (Viton on mine) between this plate and the tank and there should be fibre washers under the screw heads to stop vapour leaking into the boot area. It is a good idea to use a disc washer shaped connector under one of these fibre washers and take an earth lead from this to the car body to ensure the sender has a good earth. Otherwise you may be introducing more Ohms which I guess might give your readings an offset.
So make sure all connections are clean and the sender has a good earth to the car body and see if that does the trick. I think your system is probably fine and does not need calibrating or resistors or a new sender but there are maybe poor connections somewhere.
Keith
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Hello
Does it run better when cold with the choke out and does it go lumpy if you push the choke in soon after starting and before it warms up. If it does then try slightly enriching the mixture by turning the adjusting nut below the carb one flat anticlockwise. Also check the plugs. If they are light chocolate brown then mixture is ok. If they are white too lean and black too rich. Are the carbs balanced. I use one of those cheap air flow meters with a simple plastic manometer on. Not high tech but good enough. Remove the air filters and left the pistons using a thin bladed screwdriver. If engine stalls then too weak. Check diaphragms as Andy has said. Also check the jets are centralised - unscrew the oil damper on top and lift the piston using the piston lifting spring - it should fall back with a clunk. This shows it is free to move. If it doesn't then use a spanner to slightly loosen the jet assembly below the float chamber. Lift and drop the piston until it drops with a clunk and tighten the assembly bit by bit checking at each step the piston rises and falls easily.
If you go down the route of new needles, I discovered there are two or even three different number Stromberg carbs that were fitted. The number is stamped on the carb body the side facing the air filter which you need to take off to see it. On the car I have C3043 that has 2E needles. The spare set are marked C3069 that use 2H needles and according to Moss catalogue there C1825 that use 2A needles. There should be a tag fastened to the side of the carb with the number on but likely this has been lost. The number 2A 2E or 2H is stamped on the needle.
I have posted this before this year but if you do remove the carbs for service then definitely fit the stay up floats from Burlen. These are ethanol resistant. There are also 3 O-rings that need to be replaced with resistant ones. My original floats were becoming soft and were blistering. A friend has recently discovered the same on his carbs.
Good luck.
Keith
p.s. Don't know where in Gloucestershire you are but Glavon and CVTR have regular meets and have a wealth of info among its members.
Windscreen Capping
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
The items 2 and 4 you refer to are - item 2 is a metal channel that runs up each the side of the Surrey and is basically a continuation of the channel around the door. There is a rubber seal that fits into it - item 4. Sometimes the metal channel is missing because it has been lost over the years during previous restorations.
The rubber/furflex is another seal that pushes onto the flange of the forward edge of the Surrey fram if that makes sense. It also pushes over part numbers 25 and 26 on the link you gave to hold them onto the front flange. The rear edge of these fit under the rear screen rubber. Item 5 is the hook that the elasticated strap fits to. This is attached inside the back of the vinyl top just above the rear top of the side windows. On my car the rubber/furflex runs around the Surrey frame but stops on each side at the top of the B post so I can remove the Surrey and go back to the drop head top if I want to.
Best thing is to look at another car with a Surrey to see exactly what fits where because it is a bit of a jigsaw.
Keith
p.s. I rebuilt the steel hard top and replaced all the seals and the headlining. That is a job and a half.