keith1948
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Posts posted by keith1948
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I once took apart the end 'boxes' of a leaky heater matrix and discovered that over half of each box had solid 'sludge' in it. This was because there were no baffles to make the water flow around the inside of these boxes instead of just straight across. A better design would be to have just one tube running through the fins and no end boxes. This would also remove all the soldered joints in the original design. I think there may be a Jaguar matrix along those lines.
So the suggestion of reversing the flow might work. Worth a try but I think the original matrix design is poor.
Keith
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Well my yellow specs arrived today. They came by air all the way from China but the delivery driver managed to smash them forcing the package through the letterbox at the house. Just got a refund so back to the drawing board. Modern life eh. Once upon a time we could go to a real shop and buy stuff but now its all 'online' and you can always send it back or get a refund if it arrives broken. I waste lots of time in this way whilst being told this is the modern way of life which is much easier. You can order from the armchair.
Keith
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For years we all drove under the yellow sodium street lights which were much better for foggy conditions. We also had yellow fog lights on cars that reduced the reflected glare compared to tungsten car headlamps. I don't recollect having any issues in those days with glare from oncoming car headlights. The comments regarding eye tests are valid but does not explain why so many drivers, including younger drivers, are reporting headlight glare being a problem. We cannot all have glaucoma or cataracts.
The sample size of the scientific investigations are small and they quote science carried out long before the introduction of LED headlights. There needs to be a much bigger modern study.
John Davies showed a graph of warm and cold LED that showed the difference in the blue light peak. In our kitchen we have cold LED and warm halogen lights. The warm light is much more comfortable on the eyes but the cold light is better for visibility.
I am waiting for the yellow specs I ordered and will do a suck it and see trial once they come. I don't know why night driving and glare has become such a problem in recent years but I suspect LED are to blame.
Keith
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1 hour ago, Ralph Whitaker said:
Jumping in on this topic, I too find the brilliance of the light of modern oncoming traffic to be blinding. In the good old days the wattage of headlamps was limited by the construction and use regs, but what measurement factors do they use now, if any. My local car accessory shop has a sign in the window offering headlamp bulbs that give a 200% increase in brightness for safer driving at night!. Maybe for the driver of the car but not for other road users. If we have to start closing our eyes when being approached by cars with HID lights then there is clearly a safety concern, and it doesn`t have to be badly adjusted lights, as just the sheer brilliance is enough, or like on the road near me getting constantly flashed as cars go over the speed bumps. I never had any problem driving cars with Lucas 60/40 sealed beam units at night, and my rally car had only standard lights, but 2 extra long range spotlights which themselves had only 60w bulbs. Also, I have to add it is not only cars. Cyclists are now using ultra bright led front lamps with no dip facility at all.
Ralph
Hello Ralph and welcome to the debate.
I think Rob has highlighted the problem with LED headlights giving a large peak in the 400-500nm spectrum unlike other headlight designs. Equally it would appear that yellow specs might reduce this end of the spectrum. I am waiting for the pair of yellow specs I bought that are probably diverted around Africa as I write this. I have seen clip on yellow 'sun' visors that act as anti glare visors but reviews of quality and effectiveness of these are mixed. I had though a yellow tinted aero screen might be a possibility for the TR but I think it would have to be bigger than a standard size aero screen.
There are several suppliers of yellow tinted plastic but some are clear and some more opaque. There is also little data for some of these regarding light transmission and the spectrum they filter.
Your comment about cyclists using LEDs is a good one. I had one of these 'cyclops' coming towards me the other night.
Interesting discussion so far. We need some trials at night to see if any of these yellow plastics actually work. Any reduction of the blue end of the spectrum would be better I think.
Keith
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8 hours ago, RobH said:
Halogen lamps produce a continuous spectrum of light which peaks at the redder end of the spectrum. LED and HID lamps give light with distinct peaks towards the blue end.
The intensity/wavelength graphs are really helpful in showing that LED headlamps have a larger peak in the blue end of the spectrum. It should be possible for headlamp manufacturers to coat their lamps with a film to reduce this peak if this is the cause of glare. Meanwhile it looks like yellow tinted specs might be able to reduce the blue light. I have some red tinted specs for use with a laser theodolite but the whole world becomes red. They would reduced blue glare but not for driving use. I am guessing but the depth of yellow colour in tinted specs will determine how much of the blue is filtered out. I don't know if a polarising filter would do anything. Somewhere I have some polarising filters for photography. I shall have to find them and see what they do if anything.
Keith
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Thanks for the many replies. My question is not specifically whether LEDs or height of headlights on SUVs are to blame but what can the driver do to mitigate the glare from headlights that seems to be getting worse. Not looking directly at oncoming headlights is something I have done since learning to drive back in the 1960's. I have also taken to using the dipping feature on the rear view mirror more often. Unfortunately the TR is low down and the 4A doesn't have a dipping rear view mirror. However it is not just the TR but the 2 more modern cars I drive where I encounter headlight glare.
I have today sent off for a pair of yellow tinted specs with polarising lenses and I will see how they work. I have a pair of mirror sunglasses but they reduce visibility at night so not so good. In the past I had some prescription glasses that supposedly had an anti-glare coating but it didn't seem to do anything. At times I have thought that maybe it was just my eyesight but reading and hearing about so many drivers experiencing the same problem means it is something related to modern headlights. Since I can't change all the other cars on the road then I am looking for something I can do personally apart from not driving at night.
Keith
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There have been a few comments on the forum about glare from oncoming cars with LED headlights. Several people I know have virtually given up driving at night because of the glare from headlights. The RAC has just asked the government to take action following a survey that 85% of drivers feel that glare from headlights is getting worse and the blame is aimed at LED headlamps.
Since it is unlikely that the government will take any action on LEDs then the alternative is for the driver to wear anti-glare driving glasses. I have looked online and there seem to be a few available with a yellow or grey tint and/or polarising lenses. I have no experience of wearing these. Does the yellow tint have any effect? I have used polarising lenses in the past on a SLR camera to reduce reflections on water to some effect. I have also used mirror sunglasses which are very good driving into direct sunlight although quite what the effect is for oncoming drivers who see a driver with 2 suns as eyes remains to be seen.
So over to the forum - what are best driving glasses for night driving to reduce glare of LED headlights?
Keith
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On 1/8/2024 at 3:51 PM, keith1948 said:
Hi Paul
I have already emailed the office about this but so far no response. It is their first day back after Xmas holidays so I haven't chased it. I have used the Register discount at Halfords many times and saved more than my membership fee. Hopefully the Register can get the discount up and running again soon.
Keith
Today I got info from the office about a new benefits package called your rewards. I was not aware of this (maybe I missed it). You can find it by logging into the main site using your login details which are different to the forum login. Then under 'news and events', 'club news' scroll down to the article on huge platform of discounts. You can then find the benefits of membership page and how to log in. I was then able to download the latest Halfords discount voucher for 8% valid until November 2024. There are many more offers available. The old discount voucher page still shows the old Halfords voucher that expired at the end of December. You need to access the new one as I have explained above.
Alternatively you can find it under 'resources', 'members benefits' below the 'discount vouchers'
Keith
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2 hours ago, PaulAnderson said:
Just checked in the members area and it seems that the 8% discount at Halfords for members expired in December 2023 so is no longer available.
Hi Paul
I have already emailed the office about this but so far no response. It is their first day back after Xmas holidays so I haven't chased it. I have used the Register discount at Halfords many times and saved more than my membership fee. Hopefully the Register can get the discount up and running again soon.
Keith
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Yesterday I had a conversation with a lady who lives around the other side of our village. She told me that a while ago now they had a smart meter installed. The engineers from the power company had problems getting it to connect but by the end of the day they seemed to have got it working. Within a day it stopped communicating with the provider so the lady says her husband continued to put the readings in manually as before. Not long afterwards there was a knock on the door and it was someone from National Grid come to inspect the smart meter. This they duly did and said it was alright. So the lady asked what were they looking for. Reasonable question to ask. The reply was a bit unexpected “Oh the electricity provider has reported that the meter has probably been tampered with by the householder because it doesn’t seem to be providing any readings’. So not the smart meter installers fault or the meter but the householder must be the reason it isn’t working. (This lady hadn’t seen the series about the Post Office computer system scandal) So another good reason not to get a smart meter. If it goes wrong you could end up being investigated for tampering with the meter if it doesn’t work. Of course it cannot possibly be the meter or installers fault. Yet another example of technology with built in faults that cannot possibly be at fault. After all computers are always right aren’t they?
Keith
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Hi Nigel
I think we need more clues such as dimensions. If you remove the cover and lamp is there a makers name inside?
I was thinking maybe USA or German car. VW have something similar.
In the meantime happy new year.
Keith
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Maybe we all need a trip to Specsavers!
Keith
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I am struggling to follow the rationale for the phone connection changes.
We have to get rid of copper wires because it has been in use for up to 100 years. So that must mean it worked ok?
Fibre is better for carrying data and speed but locally we have issues with fibre companies putting up overhead wires when there are ducts underground they could have used except the company that owns the ducts won't agree. Result will be 2 or more different lots of fibre systems.
Then this has to be connected to the house which has copper wire at present. So an adapter is needed.
However we live in an area where power cuts are not that uncommon so will also need an uninterruptible power supply for our landline phones.
Someone will suggest we use mobiles but we are in a no-signal area. We have a couple of mobiles that are 2 and 3G compatible but not 4G. The 2 and 3G signal is better than 4G nearby but they plan to switch 2 and 3G off soon. This leaves 4G which has less coverage locally than 2 or 3G. We have had to get a couple of more modern mobile phones that can connect to 4G but in the house we connect via the internet. When power is off this doesn't work.
So I am thinking maybe Roger has the solution with 2 cans and a piece of string?
Or maybe we could use copper wire - now there's a thought?
Keith
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28 minutes ago, stuart said:
I take it you dont go out at night then?............................................Or do you...................Cats eyes!
Stuart.
Hi Stuart
As I said, the Moss relay kit made a real difference on my 4A. I have driven all over France, Spain, Ireland and UK at night with no problems. In France and Spain I have had the yellow plastic beam deflectors fitted as well. I have been driving the TR for about 30 years without needing LED headlamps etc. I did fit a high level LED brake light repeater bar on the rear Surrey screen though for the benefit of tailgaters.
I have also managed to find my way without a sat nav. Wonderful things maps!
Apart from brake servo and handbrake upgrade, TR6 wheels and seats I have tried to keep the car close to original.
Keith
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I have the original style sealed beam headlamps not halogen.
Keith
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I have said this before - I fitted a Moss headlamp relay kit to my 4A a few years ago. The switch circuit presents some resistance and the headlamps are less bright. With the relays the power goes straight from the battery to the headlamps when the switch is on. There are fuses with the relays. Made a noticeable difference. Back in the 90's I drove in France with yellow beam deflectors and after fitting the relays I could see where I was going. Try this before changing all your bulbs.
Keith
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The square mounts have the bolts slightly offset and there is a top and bottom side. By that I mean with the cup side facing onto the chassis, the bolt on that side is offset. It is possible to fit it with the bolt slightly up or down depending which way you put it on the chassis. This in turn makes the bolt that goes to the engine have 2 positions. I don't have a square mount to look at but I remember marking those I used to have with "top" so that faced upwards. If it isn't marked on the part then talk to Moss. Its why I decided to use the round mounts. I couldn't seem to get the square ones to fit. The other issue is that the mounting points on the chassis are at an angle so as you move the engine up it moves in relation to the holes so it makes it difficult to line up.
Don't worry about the block of wood at the gearbox end at this point. You may find that doing one side at a time so you can tilt the engine might help.
Keith
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Looking at the wiring diagram I can't see a relay for the headlamp circuit. All the power goes through the switch and this seems to be a weak point. I fitted a Moss headlamp relay kit and the relays have their own fuses. I did this years ago after a friend had a similar meltdown in his TR6. The brown power cables to the headlamps are not in a loom but readily visible in the engine bay as are the relays and fuses.
Maybe the problem with your car could be a bad earth somewhere so the power tries to find an alternative pathway. I've had this a couple of times with some strange results such as horn trying to earth through main beam circuit. No idea why. Might explain your ignition mystery.
Good luck
Keith
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For algae and moss growing around window seals and lights I have used Jeyes fluid. For mould - sodium metabisuphite aka Campden tablets kills mould but never used it on a car. Used in winemaking.
Keith
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Hi Nick
I agree with Stuart that is too much play
The other issue I have experienced is the shackle bolt that goes through the trunnion being a loose fit. As Stuart says there are some poor repro trunnions around. For lubrication I have used LM grease with some oil added.
Maybe wait and go to the Triumph/MG spares day at Stoneleigh in the new year (11th February) and take your vertical link and try some trunnions for fit and get a good fit shackle bolt at the same time as well?
Keith
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I have one of these weights that I fitted to the 4A. Not only did it make more vibration but hit speed bumps because it hangs down underneath. Back in the 1960's roads were generally flat. These days there are speed bumps everywhere. There is a rubber innards and a metal tube core that protrudes beyond the rubber core. The clamp at the top and the nut on the bottom may need a spacer washer so they clamp on the metal tube in the centre. From the clamp the smaller strap attaches to the bottom of the strap shown in Marco's photo. This stops it working its way off the back of the gearbox. From my experience it was not something I would fit.
Keith
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8 minutes ago, Steven Whitaker said:
I'm going to take the old cam wheels off, mark up the new ones and refit the new ones. Then onto getting it running for longer than 3 seconds!
Hi Steve
well done for perseverance in the face of adversity. There is an old saying - if it ain't broke don't fix it. If the old cam wheels are fine and work........
Anyway from one tuning to another. While you have been tuning up your car I have been restoring and tuning up an old 6 chord mandolin zither and repairing the carrying case. Some of our German readers may appreciate this link. (not me playing I hasten to add although can get some sort of tune out of it.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hqtdq06bgOM
Keith
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Hi Steve
So far so good. Don't forget the final rocker clearances is 0.010 not 0.040 used in the setting process.
Keith
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Hello Steven
I have 3 workshop manuals in front of me. The one you have quoted is the 'proper' workshop manual for the TR4 with extra bits in for the 4A. Now the 2 others I have are the Haynes manual and the Autobook 778 for the 4 and 4A. These two both differ slightly from the workshop manual. These both say that after setting the rocker clearances on numbers 7 and 8 to .040 inch then rotate the camshaft so both 7 and 8 are closed and slight rotation either way will start to open one or other valve. The figure 64 referred to shows this. This makes more sense than the workshop manual where it says one valve is about to close and the other about to open.
When you reach the step of turning the crankshaft, both Haynes and Autbook say the woodruff key should point down when numbers 1 and 4 are both at TDC. The workshop manual doesn't say this so I guess you could be 180 degrees out if you have the woodruff key pointing upwards.
Having different manuals with slightly different instructions doesn't help.
Keith
Garage floor covering
in General TR Technical
Posted
Have a look on the Machine Mart website at garage floor coverings. They sell rolls 5m and 10m length with smooth, ribbed or studded finish. I chose studded because it is not slippy (compared to smooth) and easy to sweep clean (unlike ribbed). Had my floor covered with it for some years and it is wearing reasonably well. It is also much more comfortable to lie on compared to bare concrete. Under the gearbox/engine area I have a large drip tray I bought some years ago from Demon Tweeks.
Keith