keith1948
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Posts posted by keith1948
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Hello Pete
I had a problem with wiper motor grinding to a halt recently. The problem was that the fuse was slightly loose in the fuse box. Check the supply and earth connections because if you lose power because of dodgy connections the motor can stop working.
Keith
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Thanks Mick
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3 hours ago, Mick Forey said:
It is really designed around GPS location services to find your location and to use your GPS navigation tools. It works on any Android or Apple smartphone.
Mick
Hello Mick - thanks for reply but don't have either Android or Apple smartphone mainly because where we live in the remote wilderness of the vale of Evesham we have no mobile signal to speak of. If there was some way of downloading a list of garages from TR website before we set off on a major road trip then it would presumably be reasonably up to date (far more than the paper version) and we could then use that?
Keith
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On 4/29/2022 at 12:59 PM, Mick Forey said:
Good news: Apple have finally published the app so you can now download it to your iPhone or iPad.
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/tr-register/id1619093360
Waldi, please let me know how you get on with it. We are still having a few issues with links to certain websites but action is in hand to fix this.
Mick
Hi Mick
Don't have an iPad or iPhone but do have a MacBook. Tried to download onto that and it says 'only available in iOS. I used the link in your post. It also says 'view in Mac App Store' but no joy there either. Can you download onto a Mac and how? My Mac OS is version 10.14.6 so not version 11 and don't have the Apple M1 chip either so looks like I can't access it.
Keith
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I remember chatting to Harold Roxbee Cox (Lord Kings Norton) who worked on the R101 airship back in the 1920's 1930's. I am not sure if it was the R101 or the Hindenburg but luckily for him he gave up his seat to someone else on the very flight that the airship caught fire killing most of them on board. He witnessed the airship go up in flames knowing that he could easily have been on board. He was quite an interesting character. He used to turn up in a 6.3 litres V8 Bristol 411. A beautiful car with a superb red leather interior. Look at the link to see detailed photos
Keith
https://www.classicdriver.com/en/car/bristol/411/1970/769805
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Morning Rodders
Many years ago had a similar problem fitting a rubber boot onto an Austin Allegro drive shaft. The solution was to carefully cut the new boot along one of the seams using a razor blade. Then open the boot and slip it over the shaft. Then carefully put a thin line of superglue along the cut seam and close up the opening you have made. The superglue bonds very quickly and produces a very strong bond. Try it on one of the old boots you have taken off and if you do it properly then you will not be able to pull the join apart.
Keith
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1 hour ago, eng622 said:
Ran for 20 minutes in the drive and all ok however there was a weep of fuel at the top of the front carb float chamber. Found some **** between the needle and seat but the needle has a wear groove so ordered a new one. So will replace and try again. Also think I'm running the tank too close to empty.
The outlet pipe does in fact contact/close to the block for some distance, there is a short length of sleeveing insulating part of it.
Melvyn
Hi Melvyn
If float needle sticks closed that could stop fuel supply. If needle and seat have a wear groove then replace them. While they are removed, blow through the pipe to the carb as suggested a couple of posts above by Pete. Don't think vapourisation of fuel is your problem. Badly seating float valves and a bit of crud could be part if not all your problem. Fuel weeping shows float is not closing off the needle valve properly.
Keith
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Hello Melvyn
Have a look at the recent post about cylinder 3/4 misfiring when hot in the 4A forum. That problem turned out to be Stromberg floats disintegrating and possibly valves in float chambers sticking when hot. Mine have had problems recently that I put down to use of E5 fuel over last few years. Not sure what carbs you have but carefully inspect the floats for softening, blistering or cracks. Also check that the valves in the float chambers are working and not sticking. If the floats have swollen slightly that might be enough to make them stick. Worth eliminating this as a cause.
Keith
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Hi Cal
Your Stromberg floats look worse than mine did. Mine had softening and some blistering. I put this down to ethanol in E5 fuel doing its worst over last few years. It spurred me on to change all the 'rubber' hoses, gaskets, O rings and the cork gaskets on the fuel filter and fuel sender with ethanol resistant components. Also put new filler hose on car. Still to change some bits in fuel pump though. We have all heard of stories around E10 but it looks like E5 can cause problems over extended use. I think SU floats are a different material but worth keeping an eye on.
As an aside, modern screen wash solvents can dissolve the rubber bellows in the manual screen wash switch pumps very rapidly. I use water with a dash of liquid soap in my screen wash bottle since I have had to replace a few of the manual pumps.
Glad you have it sorted.
Keith
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Hello Cal
As I said, the (black) floats in my carbs had some blistering and some softening from E5 use over last few years. If they start to sink then won't close the valve properly. I replaced mine recently with the 'stay up' ethanol resistant floats from Burlen. If yours are suspect then recommend you change them while you have everything in bits.
You can change the valve in the float chamber (part number AAU4547) that the floats open and close. Maybe this is sticking when hot. There is an aftermarket Grose type but don't know anything about those. I used the standard ones from memory. Just means another strip down of the float chamber. The valve just unscrews. I have had them stick n the past.
Keith
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Couple of ideas
Unscrew the oil dashpot cap and lift the piston in suspect carb on lifting pin. It should fall back with a clunk. Compare it to front carb. If it doesn't then the needle is not correctly aligned. Slacken the big nut underneath and lift and drop piston a few times to centralise needle and retighten big nut. Don't alter bottom screw part or you will alter mixture strength.
Check possible electrical faults as others have suggested since these are relatively easy to do without taking too much apart.
It could be the jet in the float chamber sticking but that requires taking both carbs off and removing float chamber. You can do this without altering the jet assembly. Check that the floats are ok. Would recommend that you fit ethanol proof stay up floats if you go down this route. Mine were showing signs of ethanol damage from E5 use. Check float height is 18mm. I made a perspex gauge to get height right. Also use a Viton or ethanol proof O ring between cover and jet assembly.
Good luck
Keith
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19 hours ago, rcreweread said:
If you are going to fit the Moss plastic version to a TR4, you will struggle.
You will have to remove the radiator as there is not enough room otherwise to fit the bolts - having done just this mod recently on my TR4 when I replaced the engine, the next problem is that the clearance between the fan and the back of the radiator is so tight that I didn't dare proceed - the Moss link says the fan is for TR250/5/6 - I have a feeling you may also be OK on a 4A as their rads are less thick ( from front to back) than the TR4 ones, but certainly on my car, it would be too risky to fit it.
I have the plastic one spare now which I plan to take to Stafford!
Cheers Rich
Thanks Rich for reminding me that I removed part of the tip of the blades nearest the rad to produce a more curved profile on the rad side. This was because the tip was catching on the rad. That was about 30 years ago and has been ok but as you say that is on a 4A.
Keith
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1 hour ago, earckens said:
Can this fan be replaced without the radiator removed?
If you are careful. You can loosen the rad fixing bolts and push it forward a touch to give a bit more room.
Stuart mine is ex California and came with the 8 bladed fan. I always think the 4 bladed look very agricultural.
Keith
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Do not get a 4 blade fan because they won't cope in hot weather. I have an 8 blade TR250/5/6 fan fitted to my 4A and engine never overheated even in 37C plus in France.
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/fan-cooling-8-blade-plastic-yellow-308353.html
The moss one should just bolt on.
Keith
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Hello again Melvyn
It seems like you have resolved the electrical problems and now back to a fuel issue. James in the post above has made some useful suggestions. As I said much earlier I have done away with all the rubber connections under the car and now have one run of metal fuel pipe from tank to engine bay. If your rubber connectors under the car are old then they are unlikely to be ethanol tolerant. Much has been said about E10 but I have just replaced the floats on my Strombergs which were showing signs of blistering and softening with E5. When I removed my original rubber connectors under the car they were well past their best. The small change in diameter from metal to rubber to metal introduces a possible blockage point as well. Out of sight out of mind means these connectors are often neglected until they leak.
Like Marco I am confused by your description of an in line filter. Do you mean the one glass bowl next to the pump or do you have another glass tube shaped filter somewhere in line. For info if it is the latter they are directional with an arrow on them showing which way round they fit. I have one between the pump and the carbs on the pressure side of the pump and it seems to work ok but as Marco has said they can be blocked without visible sediment. Never had a problem with mine in that position. However if you have one before the pump then as Marco has said remove it. The original glass bowl one next to the pump is ok to take out sediment etc without blocking up. Having a tubular glass one on the suction side before the glass bowl is a bad idea because it is likely to block in that position.
Also check the breather hole in the filler cap is clear.
Keith
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Hi
When you get to the bottom of the hill and you put your foot down on the accelerator do you get a few seconds of black smoke from the exhaust. That might suggest oil getting past piston rings which may be gummed up or maybe valve stems. Oil on the plugs would cause misfire until it had burnt off. Initially I would try a petrol additive such as Redex, Wynns or similar. I have put some of this into the cylinders through the plug holes and let it soak for a while and then started up the engine. Lots of white smoke from the exhaust at first as the additive burnt off. Do this at home before you drive on the road or the driver behind will disappear in a thick white fog! Might work and inexpensive fix if it does.
Might also be a result of not driving the car for a while as you have said. If the problem persists have someone follow you down a hill and get them to watch for black smoke when you reach the bottom and accelerate. That would confirm problem is oil getting into cylinders. Then your choice to either live with it or remove pistons and check or replace rings. This will involve removing cylinder head and you will need to ensure you don't disturb the liners. A big job best left until after the summer weather has gone unless it suddenly gets worse.
Yes I know all about the long downhills in France. Some never seem as if they will end.
Keith
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Hi Oliver
If you haven't done it already try fitting headlamp relays. These are available from Moss and others. I did this on my 4A that has sealed beam units. When we first went to France we had yellow beam deflectors without the relays and could hardly see a thing. With the relays much better. In the standard wiring the power goes through the switch circuit as well as the headlamps and while 'ok' the lights are not really that good. Fitted relays to main and dipped beam so the switch circuit only needs a small current while most of the power now goes to the lights. Not only does this greatly improve the lights but also means the switch is less likely to burn out. This would enable you to keep the period headlights without going down the led route.
As for beam scatter with tripods I can't comment having never used them.
Keith
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13 minutes ago, Mk2 Chopper said:
The lamp gets power from the ignition side of the wiring, and earth's through the alternator. So you switch on ignition, bulb ignites, you start the car and the alternator now pushes 12v back up the cable that was providing the earth thereby extinguishing the light.
So if it stays on when engine is running it must be going to earth somewhere, either the alternator isn't supplying its 12v or that same wire is going to earth through a damaged wire.
Gareth
I would also suggest an earth fault as Gareth has already.
Keith
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Hi Andy
Back in 2009 (TR Action No 232), the late Colin Boother and I plus other halves travelled down to the Dordogne in France in our 4A's. We had a debate about whether we were getting the same readings on our speedometers and odometers. Colin had Minilite wheels with 185/70 Goodyear tyres and I had TR6 wheels with 165/80 R15 Firestone tyres. On the way back at Belleme where we stopped for lunch we both noted down the mileage. Back in the UK at the top of Broadway hill in Worcestershire both odometers read exactly the same at 244.1 miles. Both cars had speedometers marked 1184.
The thing is that I know my speedo reads high by about 10%. There is a number 1184 on the speedo and tyre pressures are 24psi front and 28psi rear. I have standard diff as well. Originally the car would have been fitted with cross ply tyres so I guess the rolling radius would have been different. I have learnt to live with it - if I assume speedo is correct then I am below speed limits which can be useful.
In the Moss catalogue it shows that a speedo stamped 1184 is for 6.95x15 tyres and 3.7:1 axle. I should have one stamped 1152 for a 3.7:1 axle or 1280 for 4.1:1 axle with 165x15 tyres. I think mine is 3.7:1 so correct speedo would be 1152 for me.
Keith
p.s. came across this website that seems to explain it all.
http://obswww.unige.ch/~wildif/cars/docs/Smith-jaeger_speedo_repair.pdf
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Hi Philip
As others have said just drive the car and find out what really needs doing. If you haven't done it already then go to a garage that is used to classic cars and put it through an MOT or get a TR expert to look it over. Before worrying about bhp I would be more concerned with checking that brakes, steering, drive shafts, suspension and chassis was ok. Also check that tyres aren't several years old and need replacing. Mechanics functioning properly is more important than respray and new carpets. I think you will find that there is plenty enough power and torque under the bonnet for UK roads. I have a 4 cylinder 4A with standard engine etc and been up and down the Alps and mountains in UK and France and Spain with no worries about enough horses. Brakes are another matter and I have fitted a servo and modified the handbrake and it is now fine in that respect.
Just drive it and enjoy it
Keith
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Oh dear struck a nerve there. Sorry chaps. Yes I have Lucas stuff that has lasted for years but equally had some that has been faulty from the start. Personally had mixed experience with Lucas and yes you can rebuild some of it. I have been there.
In this case though Melvyn is experiencing problems with faulty condensers that appear to be Lucas (on the box). Personally not sure about quality of some of modern "Lucas" branded parts. Again I have had mixed results with these.
Anyway lets park the debate about pros and cons of Lucas and see if we can help Melvyn with his problem.
Keith
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Melvyn
Try Holden of Bromyard
https://www.holden.co.uk/p/25d4_25d6_22d_dm6_etc_condenser
This on is £4.38 They also do an uprated one at £10.20 DCB101X
I did say the black lead might have been a problem. This connects to the plastic bit that slots into the distributor and then a red lead goes from that connection to the condenser connection. Dodgy spade connectors and maybe wire corroded and breaking down inside the insulation. Use a new black wire and crimp and solder the spade connectors. Doesn't take much to create an electrical fault on a TR as various posts on the forum will testify. They didn't call Lucas the prince of darkness for nothing. After many years running a 4A (same car for 32 years) I have found that dodgy connections or bad earths, loose wires and mods by previous owners account for most electrical problems. The components either work or they don't (or fall to bits in the case of switches).
Good luck
Keith
p.s. You might get one to try out from your local Halfords.
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Hello Melvyn
Presumably the battery is ok? They are positioned in the hottest part of the engine bay. Not the best place. Do you have another battery in another vehicle you could connect just to rule it out when the car doesn't start.
Keith
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Hello Dave
When plugs are new, when you torque them up there is a compressible washer that is compressed. If you remove and refit a plug then this washer may not hold the plug as well as it did new because it has already been compressed. I suspect a senior moment unless the threads are stripped as Stuart says. Just check all plugs are tight before you set off for a drive and hope it was a one-off.
Keith
Good Grief - I don't believe it
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Hi Roger
Found these on Demon Weeks website. Any use?
Keith
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/k-n-filters-stromberg-carburettor-bolt-on-air-filter-assembly-7000478/