Lebro
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Posts posted by Lebro
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The duct can make a big difference my friend has a 3A, and following an engine rebuild it would always boil after a fairly fast run. we fitted the duct, & no more problems.
Bob
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Hi Malcolm.
1st thought is do you have the "cardboard" ducting to direct air from the grill into the rad. without that overheating is common.
Also, when was the radiator last flushed through. they do get clogged up & so have reduced cooling effect.
Bob
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I fitted like in the TR4 position - next to the radiator on left hand side.
Bob
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Overkill !
Bob
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I very much doubt it, they were fitting 4 synchro boxes to 3B'3.
Bob
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Well I have the push on type (TEX) with a clip to hold them on, & they have never come off (yet)
Bob
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And Dad uses to kill us every morning
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Check your connections. in case you did not know (sorry if you did) the wiper motor has 12V from the ignition switch (via a fuse) on it permanantly, & the wiper switch supplies the earth connection. If a previous owner has wired the switch to provide 12V then that could be the reason you get lots of current, as the motor self park mechanism may be shorting it out.
Bob
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Green with a white stripe is rh indicator. Green with red stripe is lh indicator, red is sidelights.
Bob
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2 hours ago, RobH said:
Wish I was that energetic !
I am ---------- in my mind
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Green is 12V from the ignition switch (via a fuse), so anything which only comes on when ignition is on will have a green wire going to it. The heater is one such item, so I am sure your diagnosis is correct.
But why was it disconnected??
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What about the IPhone?
Bob
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Hydraulic brake light switch often replaced with mechanical type like this. No need to remove the old one, just re- route the wires.
Bob
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6 hours ago, TR Rob said:
Bit of an update….I think you might be right Rob, started checking the wiring horn, lightts, fan nothing worked so checked earth on the battery and it was very slightly loose.
I have one of those isolators on the earth and both connections were slightly loose . Anyway tightened them up and the lack of power is now corrected.Next stage as I can’t press starter button and observe the solenoid switch decided to turn ignition on and use the rubber burtton on the back of the solenoid switch… big mistake , there was a flash and a bang and I think a spark of the negative battery terminal . Result lost all power again.
Left the car for a few moments while I composed myself, turned ignition on and power is restored to all circuits .
I am not touching that bloody solenoid switch again , will replace with TRGB one and hope that solves the problem.If the spark was from the -ve battery terminal, then that is where the bad connection is. Take if off, clean the post & the inside of the terminal, then smear with vaseline & replace.
Bob
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If no warning lights, then check battery voltage, & if ok (>12V) check battery connections.
Bob
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I did the same to get minimal sideways movement, using the Revington's kit.
Bob
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Well done Richard it's never an easy job.
Bob
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This shows the access to propshaft grease nipple.
It looks to me from your photo that you had the access hole, but it has been welded up ?
Bob
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Very nice - possibly also worth mentioning that it fits a TR2/3/3A well also.
Bob
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Contact Mike Ellis, he should be able to help (see TR Action for contact details)
Bob
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Of course the proper answer is to wear something warmer, & not fit the side screens.
Bob
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+1 for Tanya batteries
Bob
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My main (mini tower) PC is running Win 7, it is almost as good as XP was ! Am running Norton to take care of viruses etc.
Laptop is on Win 10. Dont like it much, every time I switch it on (not all that often) I have wait up to an hour for it to stop updating, so I can get some sense out of it.
Bob
Old/New front shocks
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Yes, that is normal, you want the suspension to respond to a bump by moving up quickly, but to avoid oscillation the damper only allows the suspension to drop more slowly.
Bob