Lebro
-
Content Count
12,014 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Lebro
-
-
No specific sequence, but go round them all doing a bit at a time on each.
Bob
-
Maybe not tightened up enough ?
Bob
-
M16 X 2 is very close & I have a feeling that repro switches might be that thread anyway.
Bob
-
Did you poke through the tap, or after tap was removed. You can get much further in the 2nd way.
Bob
-
Still got the TR Action copy !
Bob
-
Did mine the hard way, front off, rad out, cleaned up & re-soldered.
Bob
-
A known weak point on these rads.
Bob
-
At risk of repeating myself !!
Can you measure the volts between earth, & the "X" terminal on the flasher unit with ignition on, engine not running. That may give you a clue.
if you a good 12V (or very close) at "X" (while trying to indicate one way or the other) that eliminates any bad connection up to that point. after that it is the run from "L" on the flasher unit to the indicator switch. beyond that there are two separate circuits - left & right. they won't both be faulty.
Bob
-
You have earthed the flying lead from the flasher unit haven't you ?
Bob
-
Ok, sounds good, unless it has become faulty. Can you measure the volts between earth, & the "X" terminal on the flasher unit with ignition on, engine not running. That may give you a clue.
Bob
-
What flasher unit are you using ?
Bob
-
I wish a distinction could be drawn between LED headlights, & HID ones (which are much brighter)
Bob
-
A Healey 3000 "A" type casing is the same as TR.
I got mine swapped by Hardy Engineering (Leatherhead) when then refurbished the O/D.
May be worth giving them a ring, they dealt a lot with the Heale's so had stock of them.
The speedo ratio will still be wrong though, unless you change the output shaft
Bob
-
Good work
Bob
-
Quite so !
-
+2.
If the fibre washers are still letting fuel through then either the fixing is not tight enough, or the surfaces of the mating parts are not flat.
Bob
-
Yes, agree they would give a rather firmer ride than ideal !
Bob
-
Have you got any free movement of the slave cylinder rod with pedal fully up ? There should be.
Bob
-
I think the stesses refered to are not internal pressure, but mechanical pressure exerted when undoing the cap.
I have the non pressurised recovery bottle system on my TR3, as Brian says it's difficult to find a "long" rad cap with the top seal required for the recovery to work, they normally just have a sprung metal disk. I modified my cap to have a rubber seal in the top, & it all works well. I can fill the rad almost to the top, & that level stays there, excess coolant being tranferred to the bottle as it heats up, then being sucked back into the rad as it cools down.
Bob
click on to enlarge
-
They are certainly posher than the alloy ones I made about 30 years ago - out of ¼" plate bent in three places to fit the vice jaws.
Bob
-
Indeed ! I may do the same when I next need some.
Bob.
P.S.
Just ordered 20L as the price is bound to go up !
-
Exactly what I did !
Bob
-
For TR2 / very early TR3's DR2 motor, mounted next to brake / clutch master cylinder (non self park)
Bob
-
Where can I get one, I would like to see how it works.
Bob
Oh, just read the advert again !! - silly me
I see I can order one form Burlin's
Possible solution for blocked crankcase Drain Tap
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
I have the same style of (original) tap on the block & the Red, neither leak.
Bob