Lebro
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Posts posted by Lebro
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Hi.
I have an Overdrive Triumph 2000 box with a vent hole in my TR3, & I drilled a vent hole in the top square headed filler plug of the overdrive.
I have had no leaks from either.
I was also tempted to drill a hole in the rear axle top for the same reason. I used to have a Stag which has a vented axle, & I remember
that they would leak oil if this hole got blocked.
Bob.
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Just a thought - the guage need three electrical connections switched (by ingition switch) 12Volts, the feed from sender to guage, & a good ground to chassis.
You may be missing the ground ?
I did the same as above - set the whole thing up off the car, where you can swing the float through its full movement, and if necessary adjust the guage to match.
the adjustment is fiddly, but quite easy - you have to slacken off the nuts holding the two coils, & minutly move them in, or out to get the correct readings.
More details available if you need them !
Bob.
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Looks shorter than the Triumph one to me, but would probably work
Bob.
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Yep, I agree, Its the cushion drive from an early "bomb" starter motor, I got through 2 or 3 of those back in the 70's when TR was my every day car.
I don't agree with above though, it should not slip at all, its just an inner steel sleeve, & an outer steel sleeve, with rubber bonded inbetween both.
It will either transmit the torque through - if it's OK, or just slip if it has failed.
From memory, when it fails you get a male cone shaped rubber stuck to one sleeve, & a female cone shape stuck to the other. Only fix is to buy a new one, or weld the sleeves together as I saw written in another thread recently ! I would go for a new one.
Bob.
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Hi John.
Send me a PM with your email address on, & I will send some photos of my chassis build up last summer.
Too many to put on the forum !
Bob.
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I agree, if it's metal, then it can be repaired by soft soldering, if plastic, then I would recommend buying a replacement.
Older plastic floats seem to suffer either from old age, or the modern fuels - I had to replace the plastic floats in the Amal carbs on my bike
last year, I had tried a weld repair previously, but it failed after a few months.
TR3 float should be a metal cylinder place horizontally & soldered to a steel wire back up to the sender.
Bob.
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John.
Have you tested the fit of the vertical links in the trunnions - assuming they are new ones ?
I got new trunnions from Moss (via the TR shop) & found them very tight. I worked them a bit on the bench, & they seemed to improve
so I fitted everything, expecting them to loosen up further after a few miles.
Well, they didn't ! steering was quite stiff, & remained so for 200 odd miles (not dangerously stiff you understand, but enough to be annoying).
Eventually, I part stipped , & removed the links, cleaned out all the grease, then used some fine grinding paste to loosen up the fit of the coarse thread. It only took a few turns back & forth to improve, cleaned out all the paste, re-greased, & it was much improved. re-built the suspension, & road test - it is still reluctant to completely self centre,
but is now very nice to drive - wish I had done this 1st time round.
Bob.
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I believe you will have to remove the bottom plate (between the lower wishbones) before you can fit the spring.
Use an internal spring compressor (where the shocker normally goes) & wind up the plate under the new spring until you can get the bolts back in to the wishbones.
I have tried using external spring compressors, & they just dont work on a TR because you cannot get them opposite each other.
I made my compressor out of some M12 studding, some large washers, & some M12 nuts.
& dont forget to fit the bump stop brackets after the shock absorber. This is tricky with no body / engine to compress the spring - I waited till engine was in.
Bob.
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The original jacking points for a 2 - 3A are round holes in the floor in front of the seats.
Remove rubber (or steel for early cars) blanking disc's, & locate the jack on the chassis through the hole.
If you have the original jack, it's fairly obvious where to attach it, if not, go for a scissor type, & push it under the rear spring, or under the lower front spring plate.
Bob.
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Arh, now I was sneaky there - During the re-build, I decided to go for electric screen washers, but did not want any extra switches on the dash. (having spent some time welding up all the extra holes drilled last century.
So, (you'll like this) Insted of fitting the standard wiper switch, instead fit a lighting switch. OK you have to make the hole slightly bigger, but it does not show.
Then wire it up so that for wipers you just pull to the 1st position, then if you want washers just twist & pull to the second (headlight) position. Simples & invisible !
Bob.
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Hi Ian.
Yes they are from the boot lid, see photos below taken of my 1956 TR3 (same as TR2 in this respect)
Only differance is that mine have the sides "filled in".
Cheers
Bob.
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This thread got me thinking - will my hyraulic bottle jack actually be any use if I have a flat tyre ?
Well having checked ground clearances, & deducted 4" for a flat tyre - the answer is NO !
I recon I needed a jack wich would go down to 4" (rear is worse than front)
This is assuming that you use not the chassis to jack onto, but the bottom of the suspension - which is not as low as the chassis will be.
So, Have just ordered from ebay a new 1 ton scissor jack which goes down to 85mm (3.4") That should do the trick.
)
Bob.
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Yes, but why would you when the standard setup uses a dual fillament bulb?
Anyway, you would not need a relay, a simple diode would do to block the brake light voltage from going to the front sidelights.
The resistor would need to be around 4 ohms at 12 watts rating (will get hot). see circuit below, but - again why on earth would you need to do this ?
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Has to be the speedo, the usual signs of a worn, or dried out cable is a bouncing needle on the speedo. the cable can't possibly rotate faster than the gear which drives it in the gearbox. I cannot see how the gearbox can be at fault either.
If it's suddenly reading high, that suggests that the spinning magnets have become closer to the aluminium disk which is attached to the needle spindle.
Maybe the bearings are breaking up in the speedo ? Sounds like the speedo needs opening up, to find out what is going on.
Bob.
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Suprises me too.
Back in the 70's having broken 2 half shafts on my early TR3 I changed to a girling axle, I recall that the threads on the brake pipe unions were not the same, & at the time, having not got my flaring tool yet, I got my local motor factors to make up the pipes I needed with lockheed threads on one end, & girling the other.
Regarding my post above, having thought about it, I think the T2000 plate was mounted on the engine side, & as such did not have the required curve on the top edge to clear the bell housing. this is what I had to create when fitting it to the TR on the gearbox side. It has to go on the gearbox side because the thin steel plate which covers the gap under the rear of the engine block has raised edges (for strength), & these would get squashed if the plate was against it.
Bob.
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Yep, Mine was cracked, so I just got my local glass shop to make me a new one - just slide it in, & squeese the metal clamps down -gently though or you will bend the glass which gives a distorted image.
Bob.
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If we are talking TR2, TR3 with the central red lens stop lamp, then yes - the centre lamp is dual fillament to provide number plate illumination & tail lamp (6W), & stop lamp (21W)
the edge lamps are dual to provide tail lamps (6W), & indicators (21W)
If we are talking TR3A, then centre lamp is chrome, & has only a single fillament at 6W for number plate, the edge lamps are dual for tail lamps (6W), & stop lamps (21W)
the round lamps half way towards the edge are single fillament for indicators (21W)
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Just to muddy the waters still further, On re-building my TR3 last year, I was given a gearbox + overdrive from a 1972 Triumph 2000.
Since the only other box I had was a well worn TR2 - non O/D box, & fitted the all synchro one. Had to get the O/D refurbished, & the rear casing changed, but the box it's self was fine. Also had to fit a different friction plate to match the splines on the input shaft, so ended up fitting an entire GT6 clutch (diaphram type - nice & light).
Anyway, the point is, when I came to fit the slave cylinder, (using the original TR plate) I found the push rod was way out of alignment, so I tried the one from the T2000 which luckily had been still attached to the gearbox. It was a similar shape, but resulted in the pushrod correctly lining up with the clutch lever. It had been bolted to the gearbox side originaly, but for the TR it needed to be engine side in order to be able to fit the strut which connects the bottom of the plate to one of the sump bolts, & to achieve that I had to relieve part of it to clear something - can't remember what !.
I would have thought that the T2000 gbox would be V similer to a TR6 one ?
Bob.
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I would fit which ever one gives the straightest line for the pushrod to the clutch lever - remember it's the middle hole of 3 that should be used.
Bob.
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RE the suggestion above regarding resistors to use the corner lights as tail lights.
I have done this on my TR3 but used a relay (well 2 relays actualy), & the standard stop/tail bulbs in all 3 places - standard for TR2, TR3.
The 6W fillaments are on when "side lights" are switched on - giving side lights, & number plate light, & a central red light as well - standard TR2/TR3 setup.
The 21W fillaments work as follows:
When braking, the centre lamp is a stop lamp, the edge lamps are also stop lamps, unless you are indicating, in which case one will be a stop lamp, & the other will be flashing.
When not braking, all lamps are off, unless you indicate, then one or the other edge lamps will flash.
This was the exact setup I found on my 1963 Morris 1000, & in fact I am using the dual relay from that very car.
I think this adds a safety factor to the original single stop lamp setup.
Bob.
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Hi MIck.
Point taken, although it seems quite legible on my screen - maybe it depands on the PC display settings.
Anyway, will change (have changed !)
Any idea why images for the signature can't simply be uploaded from one's PC as you can for posts ?
Bob.
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Done ! Thanks
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Just to expand on John's reply above, to download the picture from Photobucket to your signature you need to:
In Photobucket - View your library, double click on the photo you want - wait till it appears on the screen, then on the right hand side of screen there are a number of boxes showing links by which you can share the photo. click on the bottom one marked IMG.
the box will change & show "copied".
Then going back to your "edit signature" page on the forum paste the copied image into the signature. once it is in you can move it around by adding or deleting spaces, or line feeds. click on save changes, and the text link will be replaced by the image, which should also appear in the preview above.
I think it's a shame you can't just upload direct from your own PC that would be much easier.
My current signature has the first image (the small one) uploaded as an attachment as I explained in my 1st post, the second larger one was done using Photobucket.
Bob.
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Hi Stan & Don.
My Commission No. is TS9551 O
So you were not far out, unfortunatly although I could guess the approximate EB number - I could never be sure - so best to not do it.
As it happens I have fitted one of the plastic inserts for the battery, & they cover over where one of the plates go anyway !
Hi Frank.
Once I work out how to send a "PM" - (I presume this means Personal message ?) then I will do so.
Cheers
Bob.
Fuel gauge
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Good oh ! nice to of use sometimes !!
Bob.