Lebro
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Posts posted by Lebro
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Dont need the orange / white lights, as side lights now in headlamp, & using amber glass (domed) in the old side light position. But, just ordered an LD25RST to put in my centre rear light. Thanks for the tip. This should illuminate the number plate with white light, while not showing much red light to the rear. Untill I brake - then (with my modified wiring) all three rear lights light up similar to a modern car.
The modified wiring allows the tail lights 21W fillament to act as either a stop lamp, or an indicator depending on whether you are indicating at the time.
Bob.
P.S. Drove through Pinner this afternoon - trying to avoid the M1 !!
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My headlights are repro tripod type - P700 They take halogen bulbs, & also come with a sidelight bulb in the lower part of the reflector. Purchased on ebay from Classic car spares for £54 + £5 postage. You will also need two LLB472 bulbs many available on ebay around £2.50 each
http://www.ebay.co.u...39#ht_991wt_936
I have purchased quite a large number of items from Classic car spares - they are generaly cheaper than the usual TR outlets.
I like the head lamps very much, plenty of light output, even with standard wiring (no relays)
Initialy, to keep things as standard as possible, I plugged the sidelight hole in the reflectors, & used the standard
dual filament bulb with shallow clear lenses for flashers, & side lights. Then (last week) in the interests of safety, I altered the front lighting to have the side lights in the headlamp, & single fillament (21W) bulbs in the later - protruding bulb holder, but chose amber lenses (Mini spares) The flashers are now the correct colour (for modern cars), & much more visible from the side.
I thought I was being original - obviosly not !!!
Bob.
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Richard.
Have replied
Bob.
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Just had a listen - I would say it something in/ on the engine - not bodywork.
Best guess: Timing chain / tensioner, or loose fan blades (if metal fan fitted), or maybe water pump bearings ?
It is more a "rattle" than a knock.
Bob.
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When the nuts are tightened, they should bottom on the stepped stud so they should be tightened to a torque approprate to the thread dia / pitch.
In other words the same as if original rubber bushes were fitted.
Bob.
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My way is very simple & it seems to work:
Turn engine till valves on 1 are "rocking" i.e. exhaust nearly up, & inlet just starting down. Adjust both gaps on 4 (10 thou)
Ditto rocking on 3, adjust 2, Ditto rocking on 4, adjust 1, Ditto rocking on 2, adjust 3.
Job done !
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Agree with above, see my pictures. Also from your photos It looks like the N/S brake pipe running over the axle will be squashed by the rebound straps when you fit them, it should be bent down near the spring (again, see my photos) Forgive me if I have read that wrong, but that's how it looks to me from your photo.
I used standard dia brake pipes, - some original steel, & some I made from copper. (A flaring tool is a very useful one to have)
So I used the standard clips.
Bob.
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I did contact Jon Marshall Feb last year, this was the reply:
Apologies for not replying to your email in January. I have bee ‘retired’ for more than three years and a couple of days after your email arrived, I was offered a contract in Holland. Life got immediately chaotic. That’s also the reason the new email address didn’t get activated. Too much to do and too little time in which to do it.The last I heard of your Dove, it was owned by a John Allen. I had brief contact with him then he didn’t reply.The Dove with the twin headlights now belongs to Gary Scott and has its original registration and bonnet. One of the proposals for the TR5 had a similar twin headlight design.The red car was in Northern Ireland for many years. When the owner (Peter Jupp) died his widow sold it to a friend of Paul Hogan. This guy restored it, painted it metallic Burgundy like the prototype then sold it to France. It was mentioned in TR Action 2 or 3 issues back.I’ve never seen anything else about the 4A Dove you photographed.Best wishesJonThe other Doves he is refering to were photographed by me at the 1st Goodwood track day in 197?Bob. -
Even if rad is blocked, the heater should still work.
Is heater tap working ?
It sounds to me as if you have no circulation.
I would check out the water pump - it may have broken completely - sheared shaft or similar.
Bob.
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Just replied on the original thread.
Bob.
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Hi John.
I think the it's to to do with the disk stone guard. This is held on by three fixings, two main ones on the caliper bolts at the rear, & one at the front, it goes
under an extra nut on the longer of the two lower bolts. One of the pictures I sent "Brakes 2" shows the extra nut on the longer bolt.
The bolt first screws into the tapped hole in the vertical link, & then the stone guard fixing goes on, followed by the nut, (I used a nyloc type)
The shorter bolt does not have a nut, it screws into the threaded vertical link.
Bob.
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Yep, the RFL3 would be for cars which have separate pilot lamps for left, & right side, in which case they are wired direct to the main lamps on the relavant side.
I am wondering if your original electronic unit, which was three terminal, was P = Power, L = Lamp, & X = ground ?, and had no separate pilot output ?
But yes the RFL5 should be a drop in replacement, once you have added the ground wire.
Bob.
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Car must be -ve earth, & the new electronic unit will need a ground connection, which the original did not.
Standard ISO markings are: 49 = +12 from ignition 49a = output to lamps via the turn switch P = output to pilot light 31 = ground ( -VE)
I fitted a Hella one to my '3 at the weekend, mainly so that I could wire in a hidden switch to give me Hazard lights. Electronic units can happily drive 4 bulbs.
Bob.
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Have now got my "expensive" Tracker from RBS I have done some tests with my stanav - using an external GPS antenna, & there are two places on a TR3 which will work just fine - Under the internal fuel tank cover (seat back) placing it as far forward as possible on the top - near horizontal surface, & under the rear of the geabox cover carpet.
Both positions gave little degredation to the GPS signal strengths. I will probably use the fuel tank cover for mine.
By the way Amazon are also selling a cheaper tracker which ironicaly looks identical to the one I have just payed £87 for
( Only it does not come with a 12V to 5V converter which mine does.
Bob.
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Wish I had seen this last week, I have just purchased something similar from RBS security for £87. http://www.rbs-propertymarking.co.uk/index.html
Dohhhh !
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Good oh ! nice to of use sometimes !!
Bob.
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Hi.
I have an Overdrive Triumph 2000 box with a vent hole in my TR3, & I drilled a vent hole in the top square headed filler plug of the overdrive.
I have had no leaks from either.
I was also tempted to drill a hole in the rear axle top for the same reason. I used to have a Stag which has a vented axle, & I remember
that they would leak oil if this hole got blocked.
Bob.
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Just a thought - the guage need three electrical connections switched (by ingition switch) 12Volts, the feed from sender to guage, & a good ground to chassis.
You may be missing the ground ?
I did the same as above - set the whole thing up off the car, where you can swing the float through its full movement, and if necessary adjust the guage to match.
the adjustment is fiddly, but quite easy - you have to slacken off the nuts holding the two coils, & minutly move them in, or out to get the correct readings.
More details available if you need them !
Bob.
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Looks shorter than the Triumph one to me, but would probably work
Bob.
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Yep, I agree, Its the cushion drive from an early "bomb" starter motor, I got through 2 or 3 of those back in the 70's when TR was my every day car.
I don't agree with above though, it should not slip at all, its just an inner steel sleeve, & an outer steel sleeve, with rubber bonded inbetween both.
It will either transmit the torque through - if it's OK, or just slip if it has failed.
From memory, when it fails you get a male cone shaped rubber stuck to one sleeve, & a female cone shape stuck to the other. Only fix is to buy a new one, or weld the sleeves together as I saw written in another thread recently ! I would go for a new one.
Bob.
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Hi John.
Send me a PM with your email address on, & I will send some photos of my chassis build up last summer.
Too many to put on the forum !
Bob.
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I agree, if it's metal, then it can be repaired by soft soldering, if plastic, then I would recommend buying a replacement.
Older plastic floats seem to suffer either from old age, or the modern fuels - I had to replace the plastic floats in the Amal carbs on my bike
last year, I had tried a weld repair previously, but it failed after a few months.
TR3 float should be a metal cylinder place horizontally & soldered to a steel wire back up to the sender.
Bob.
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John.
Have you tested the fit of the vertical links in the trunnions - assuming they are new ones ?
I got new trunnions from Moss (via the TR shop) & found them very tight. I worked them a bit on the bench, & they seemed to improve
so I fitted everything, expecting them to loosen up further after a few miles.
Well, they didn't ! steering was quite stiff, & remained so for 200 odd miles (not dangerously stiff you understand, but enough to be annoying).
Eventually, I part stipped , & removed the links, cleaned out all the grease, then used some fine grinding paste to loosen up the fit of the coarse thread. It only took a few turns back & forth to improve, cleaned out all the paste, re-greased, & it was much improved. re-built the suspension, & road test - it is still reluctant to completely self centre,
but is now very nice to drive - wish I had done this 1st time round.
Bob.
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I believe you will have to remove the bottom plate (between the lower wishbones) before you can fit the spring.
Use an internal spring compressor (where the shocker normally goes) & wind up the plate under the new spring until you can get the bolts back in to the wishbones.
I have tried using external spring compressors, & they just dont work on a TR because you cannot get them opposite each other.
I made my compressor out of some M12 studding, some large washers, & some M12 nuts.
& dont forget to fit the bump stop brackets after the shock absorber. This is tricky with no body / engine to compress the spring - I waited till engine was in.
Bob.
How to use Overdrive
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Can't believe there is so much to be said about overdrive usage !
Anyway here we go -
1) I never de-clutch up or down, but I do give a "blip" of throttle when knocking O/D out - just as it changes, then you are instantly at the correct revs.
2) After taking advice from the gearbox specialists who rebuilt my inherited T2000 overdrive unit, & upgraded to TR spec, I use the same oil as was used to set up the internal pressures - in my case a basic 20/50 eg Commer classic. Had I used gear oil then the pressures would have been too great, & the unit would have had a short life.
3) If you want the overdrive switch to be on the gear lever, why not use a T2000, or a Stag gear knob with the switch built in. You have to re-thread
the gear stick with a coarser thread (7/16" UNF I think) which is quite easy to do. I did this thinking I may use the T2000 knob which came with the box, but having got used to the pull switch on the dash I actualy quite like it how it is, you can put O/D in or out without hands leaving the wheel.
4) As for logic units - I can see how they work, & it would be quite easy to make one, but the jury is out on whether it would be an improvement ?
Bob.