Lebro
-
Content Count
12,057 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Lebro
-
-
I'm sure someone would love to restore this roadster to it's former glory.
Aluminium bodywork, & wooden floors if I remember correctly?
If only I had the space ------
As for the obscene suggestions re modifications -- I'm speechless!!
Bob.
-
Well it used to b MOT failure ! These days I guess one needs to get under, and wobble things around, & check for too much movement.
-
£5 to have a modern (larger) dipping mirror cut down. I am collecting mine tomorrow.
Still trying to source a TR style stem as I would prefer to keep the original mirror complete.
Bob.
-
Peter.
I have fitted "stay up floats" to my T120 m/cycle - Amal concentric carbs. the originals filled up with petrol & sank !
I had not realised that you could get them for SU carbs. I think I may order a couple for stock.
Bob.
-
My guess is that you probably won't know when they are worn to the point of needing to be replaced. More likely the various bushes on the wishbones will wear out first, and when you replace those, that would be the time to replace everything rubbery or plasticy !
Regarding shockers - they are fairly easy to change anyway, so I would leave them if they seem OK.
I put my old shockers back in after a body off re-build last year, cos there appeared to be nothing wrong with them. Subsequent road use has confirmed that they are working just fine. It may be a different story if you wish to "push the limits" but for normal road use the standard ones are OK.
Bob.
-
Hi.
I have HS6 carbs fitted to my TR3, yes the floats are a nylon material, adjustment in level is achieved by adding, or removing sealing washers under the needle valve jet. Also, if one float measures up to be high, & the other low, swapping the floats over can sometimes work.
With mine, I used a combination of swapping, and adding 1 washer to one side only to get the result I wanted.
The book says gap between float chamber lid, and top of float (when held upside down) , should be between 3.2, & 4.8 mm (use a drill to check).
I set mine to be 4.5 ish n the front carb, & 3.5 ish on the rear carb - this was to compensate for the slope of the engine, & the fact that the front float chamber is in front of the carb (higher), & the rear float chamber is behind the carb (lower) This hopefully results in equal heights of fuel at the main jet of each carb. Anyway, the car runs very nicely, with a nice slow, even tickover
)
Bob.
-
Looking closely at the "original TR2" pull cord at top of thread, the leather is wrapped around an inner cord of some sort.
Also, is it me, or does the leather one above look far too long ??
Bob.
-
One thing I have just noticed about the Lucas 584which I won, is that it is intended to be top mounted, ie for the word "LUCAS" on the tab to be the right way up, the ball ended stem is expected to go up from the mirror. Having said that I am sure that can be sorted somehow, have not yet decided whether to use existing TR mirror stem, or possibly make a new one from scratch.
The mirror I bought was cheap because the glass had some defects in the silvering, so I am getting my local glass Co. to cut down a larger (modern)
dipping mirror glass (which I had already) to the same shape as the Lucas one (cost £5, so still up on the deal !)
I think The Lucas 103 mirror is probably the one for the job (see top of thread) but can't find any.
Regarding colour, I will probably spray the casing black, which is what the standard TR mirror is, so won't look too out of place.
Final thought - If one wanted to have the dipping mirror facility, but also want to keep the original mirror, one could get hold of a modern dipping mirror, remove the glass, get it cut down to the size of the standard mirror, & fit to the standard casing. OK there would be no tab to flick up, or down, but how hard would it be to just move the mirror down when need be, then back up later ? This is what I would do now if I had not already bought a dipping one unfortunately I have only just thought of that !
Bob.
-
But your normal O/D gearbox switches should prevent O/D from engaging in reverse anyway ?
Bob.
-
I was told by the experts who re-built my O/D that a plain 20/50 oil was the best bet.
Bob.
-
Obvious question, but is the shaft at full length, or can it be pulled out further ?
I agree with above, Lockheed or Girling axle would make no differance.
Bob.
-
Interesting thread. I have a rectangular reversing light not yet fitted, as I was unsure of the best (most descrete) way.
As my car currently has a Triumph 2000 gearbox (with O/D) fitted it comes with a reversing light switch, which I took the precaution of wiring up befor fitting the gearbox cover, so the wires are there ready to be used - if I fit one !
I am thinking next to the overrider in vertical mode is most descrete, & I would make a bracket to pick up on an existing hole in the overrider mounting.
Bob.
-
I have fitted a simple "points replacement" unit into my distributor, It works just fine, & was not at all expensive. & just in case, I have also bought a spare, which lives in the glove box. It would be much easier to change over, than to re-fit the original points & capacitor - then gap & time etc.
Note. Car does need to be -ve earth for this one, but +ve earth units are also available - but a bit more expensive (not much)
Bob.
-
You can make a perfectly respectable door pull as follows:
cut a length of ¼" braided rope to follow to desired path between lock, & top fixing
crimp onto the ends some electrical ring terminals with approx 3/16" holes.
slide over a suitable length of suitably sized heatshrink sleeving colour optional.
secure the ends on the door catch stud, & tunder the chrome cover at the top.
Easy !
-
Codes:
AS = Adjustable steering
CSA = Competition Springs & Shock Absorbers
H = Home built Specification
h = Heater
HT = Hard Top
HSC = Hood Stick Cover
K = Metric Calibrated instruments
L = Lefthand Drive
M = Imperial Calibrated Insruments
Nil = No Heater
ORS = Occasional Rear Seats
O = Overdrive
R = Righthand Drive
TC = Tonneau Cover
W = Whitewall Tyres
WW = Windscreen Washers
Wire = Wire Wheels
X = Export Build Specification
4:1 = 4:1 Axle Ratio
From my Standard Register records (courtesy of Bill Piggott)
Bob.
-
I most certainly am not !!
By the way, once you get the pulley off you would do well to check out the timing chain, & tensioner, I'm glad I did, 'cos the tensioner was half broken, & chain well worn !
Nobody's uncle Bob.
-
Puller is the best way - it is not on a taper, so should come off without too much trouble.
Bob.
-
Sorry, I think sand blasting may have removed any such writing on mine ! but did not notice anything at the time (it was very rusty)
Bob.
-
Mine is only 1998 CC! 'onest !
-
Just won a slightly tatty Lucas 585, Some work to do, - maybe get a new glass made to replace the marked one, but it should do the trick.
) Bob.
-
I would suggest via an inline fuse - say 5A to the fuse box (choose the side not switched by ignition though!)
-
Ah, but if you look at the photo of original nut, the first couple of mm's have no thread anyway - presumably to aid fitting the nut to the stud.
So that reduces the difference in no of threads between original , & modified nut. My worry would be if the stud still does not penetrate all the way through the nut, which the above photo suggests it doesn't
Bob.
-
I used LTD type on widscreen so can't advise I'm afraid.
Bob.
-
Thanks Guys.. I am watching several on ebay at the moment, I have already won (for 99p) an XJS mirror - a bit plasticy, but a good start.
There is a Lucas on - rather tatty ending tonight at 7:30 ish currently £4.99 will bid for that, the one mentioned earlier is now up to £27, so may let that go - depends on tonight bidding ! I'm sure the TR stem can be fitted - somehow !
Bob.
propshaft length
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Just make sure that the shaft is stillperfectly in line with the gbox flange - any slight missalignment will cause harsh vibration, & short life of UJ's.
Bob.