Lebro
-
Content Count
12,016 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Lebro
-
-
I belive I know where they fit - Under the glove box, front end (open holes) fit between glove box front, & dash.
the bars then run towards the front (under glove box), kink upwards, & attach to existing fixings on the bulkhead.
The slotted holes are in the forward section, which is near horizontal.
Too far forward for a radio, but yes could be for a separate valve amp?
Bob.
-
Far too much time on your hands !!
Are they chromed - cant tell from the photo ?
Very good.
Bob.
-
I think you would have noticed if it was when you fitted the gearbox mounting - did you have to struggle to get the bolts into the chassis?
If not, then the gearbox is in the right place.
Bob.
-
Agreed, mine started on the first crank after priming carbs, checking sparks, timing etc after 30 years !!!
OK the whole road was covered in smoke for the first 5 minutes, but then it cleared, and she was running just fine !
(& still is)
Bob.
-
If the rad is old (most are) & you want trouble free motoring get it re-cored, then fit & forget
Bob.
-
The risk would be that the paint comes off at a later stage, & blocks up the waterways.
I would say better to clean out the block as much as possible, then always use a high concentration of antifreeze with corrosion inhibitor.
& maybe flush out every couple of years ?
Bob.
-
Try new plugs - or sand blast the old ones.
Bob.
-
Well I say if it was good enough for Bergerac ------
Bob.
-
Does anybody know what these two brackets are for?
I think they are supposed to fit under the dash - maybe under the glove box. I had two sets of them (from two cars) during my major re-build last year, chose the better pair, painted them, but when I came to fit them - there was nowhere obvious to put them. I had thought that they were used to support the glove box, but they don't come near enough to do any good.
Are they perhaps to mount a car radio from?
Bob.
-
As far as I know all sidescreen cars had the large hole in the RH footwell. Never really knew what it was for, radio speaker seems unlikely due to likelyhood of it getting damp, & useless. Welded mine up last year during re-build. Not intending to fit radio, just listen to exhaust note !!
-
Can't see above image, web site says "forbidden" !!!
-
Try Loucas in the TR shop. he bought a "restoration project 57 TR3 " from me last year, which was a pretty much a basket case (& extreemly rusty),
I am sure the box of bits included all the parts for the vent flap - probably available if he is not selling the car on as a whole.
I found the after market rubber seals were a bit on the small side, & needed very good glue to keep them in place.
I did not have any trouble with the bonnet hitting the flap though.
Bob.
-
Just make sure that the shaft is stillperfectly in line with the gbox flange - any slight missalignment will cause harsh vibration, & short life of UJ's.
Bob.
-
I'm sure someone would love to restore this roadster to it's former glory.
Aluminium bodywork, & wooden floors if I remember correctly?
If only I had the space ------
As for the obscene suggestions re modifications -- I'm speechless!!
Bob.
-
Well it used to b MOT failure ! These days I guess one needs to get under, and wobble things around, & check for too much movement.
-
£5 to have a modern (larger) dipping mirror cut down. I am collecting mine tomorrow.
Still trying to source a TR style stem as I would prefer to keep the original mirror complete.
Bob.
-
Peter.
I have fitted "stay up floats" to my T120 m/cycle - Amal concentric carbs. the originals filled up with petrol & sank !
I had not realised that you could get them for SU carbs. I think I may order a couple for stock.
Bob.
-
My guess is that you probably won't know when they are worn to the point of needing to be replaced. More likely the various bushes on the wishbones will wear out first, and when you replace those, that would be the time to replace everything rubbery or plasticy !
Regarding shockers - they are fairly easy to change anyway, so I would leave them if they seem OK.
I put my old shockers back in after a body off re-build last year, cos there appeared to be nothing wrong with them. Subsequent road use has confirmed that they are working just fine. It may be a different story if you wish to "push the limits" but for normal road use the standard ones are OK.
Bob.
-
Hi.
I have HS6 carbs fitted to my TR3, yes the floats are a nylon material, adjustment in level is achieved by adding, or removing sealing washers under the needle valve jet. Also, if one float measures up to be high, & the other low, swapping the floats over can sometimes work.
With mine, I used a combination of swapping, and adding 1 washer to one side only to get the result I wanted.
The book says gap between float chamber lid, and top of float (when held upside down) , should be between 3.2, & 4.8 mm (use a drill to check).
I set mine to be 4.5 ish n the front carb, & 3.5 ish on the rear carb - this was to compensate for the slope of the engine, & the fact that the front float chamber is in front of the carb (higher), & the rear float chamber is behind the carb (lower) This hopefully results in equal heights of fuel at the main jet of each carb. Anyway, the car runs very nicely, with a nice slow, even tickover
)
Bob.
-
Looking closely at the "original TR2" pull cord at top of thread, the leather is wrapped around an inner cord of some sort.
Also, is it me, or does the leather one above look far too long ??
Bob.
-
One thing I have just noticed about the Lucas 584which I won, is that it is intended to be top mounted, ie for the word "LUCAS" on the tab to be the right way up, the ball ended stem is expected to go up from the mirror. Having said that I am sure that can be sorted somehow, have not yet decided whether to use existing TR mirror stem, or possibly make a new one from scratch.
The mirror I bought was cheap because the glass had some defects in the silvering, so I am getting my local glass Co. to cut down a larger (modern)
dipping mirror glass (which I had already) to the same shape as the Lucas one (cost £5, so still up on the deal !)
I think The Lucas 103 mirror is probably the one for the job (see top of thread) but can't find any.
Regarding colour, I will probably spray the casing black, which is what the standard TR mirror is, so won't look too out of place.
Final thought - If one wanted to have the dipping mirror facility, but also want to keep the original mirror, one could get hold of a modern dipping mirror, remove the glass, get it cut down to the size of the standard mirror, & fit to the standard casing. OK there would be no tab to flick up, or down, but how hard would it be to just move the mirror down when need be, then back up later ? This is what I would do now if I had not already bought a dipping one unfortunately I have only just thought of that !
Bob.
-
But your normal O/D gearbox switches should prevent O/D from engaging in reverse anyway ?
Bob.
-
I was told by the experts who re-built my O/D that a plain 20/50 oil was the best bet.
Bob.
-
Obvious question, but is the shaft at full length, or can it be pulled out further ?
I agree with above, Lockheed or Girling axle would make no differance.
Bob.
Painting inner face of water jacket
in General TR Technical
Posted
Elsewhere on the forum, I have seen a recomendation to use "central heating" type cleaner / de-scaler to clean out the waterworks of an installed engine, which seems like a good idea.
Why not take this a step further, & add "central heating" type corrosion inhibitor i.e. Fernox or similar.
I have had this in my central heating system for many years, & whenever I have to drain it (for maintenance / modification purposes) the water always comes out clean, slightly pink due to the inhibitor, with no brown / black bits, also most of my radiators are pre 1980's, & are still working fine.
Will be tempted to try this the next time I have to drain the TR.
Bob.