Lebro
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Posts posted by Lebro
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On some a limit switch stops the motor at fully up, or fully down. On others there is a timer, set to just a bit longer than it takes to reach the end.
The polarity switch is done by a relay, which in turn is powered by the "antenna" 12V output from the radio.
Bob.
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I got mine from the TR shop, but I'm sure Moss, & Rimmers will also do them.
Bob.
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Yes, full months only, including the time taken for the post to get it there.
So send off well before end of month.
Bob.
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Hydrochloric acid will not dissolve steel, only the rust. However, as mentioned above, it can cause "Hydrogen embrittlement" which won't be an issue with a tank, but may be with a stressed component.
Bob.
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Sounds like a posh trade name for hydrochloric acid !
Phosphoric acid will also work - but not as well
Bob.
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The nut does not need to seal, it's function is to push the probe into the hole as far as the ridge on it will allow, the seal is between the ridge, & the housing. I would recommend putting some sealant on the ridge eg red hermatite or similar.
Bob.
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I used some pipe from a Triumph 2000 heater - same size, but made from plastic (with ribs in to make flexible)
Bob.
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Don't know about the above, but if only surface rust hydrochloric acid will dissolve it.
Other methods include pouring gravel into tank& shake vigourusly - I have done this with success on small tanks eg lawn mower, & outboard motor.
Good luck , whatever you try
Bob.
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I got a Lidl's one last time around (or was it the time before) anyway it does not eat batteries - even if you leave it on it will switch it's self off after a time.
It seems to be very accurate compared with a micrometer. I use mine regularly and over several years have only changed the battery once.
Highly recomended.
Bob.
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Why can't I see the photo in ntc's post above ?
Bob.
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Take top off float chambers, then suck out fuel using a large syringe, or similar, alternatively, just use lots of paper towel to soak up the fuel,
(then leave somewhere safe to evaporate)
You may find a fibre washer to fit, or use plumbing PTFE tape to build up a washer, & also seal the threads.
Bob.
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Sounds to me like you have lost the front UJ nipple - in which case just screw in a new one, and the plug in the sliding joint area should be able to be removed, & temporarily replaced with a nipple , then put back if you wish - or just leave with a nipple in..
Bob.
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I used to suffer that every year after a winter layoff. did similar to you, it always free'd in the end.
problem with a stick on the pedal is that the hydraulics are bound to creep over a long time period, & you end up with the clutch not actualy being held in the release position at all. Also would this not (eventualy) weaken the clutch springs ?
Bob.
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Either syphon most of the fuel out from the top using a hose pipe, or disconnect the pipe on the fuel pump, & let it drain from there.
Bob.
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The above is quite correct, you need to apply for a change in taxation class from private light goods to historic vehicle.
once that is done, the tax disc will be free.
Bob.
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My 1956 TR3 has the same brace.
Bob.
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Non original floors on my 3 so I guess that's why no tab with hole.
Bob.
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I had the same problem on my '3, didn't fit it in the end 'cos the conduit was not in any danger of getting in the wrong place anyway.
Bob.
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It is actualy not that difficult to setup / re-calibrate the fuel guage to the sender. I had to do it to mine last year.
Won't go into it here , but if anybody wants to know how to do it, let me know.
Bob.
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I am using an accuspark unit in my TR3, & have had no problems. I would suspect the rotor arm firstly, then distributer cap.
I carry a spare Accuspark unit in the car - just in case, on the grounds that it will be much quicker & easier to change to a new unit than it would be to re-fit points & condenser, then set the gap, & adjust timing all on the roadside !
Finaly coils can fail after they get hot, (I have had this on a boat engine) so just because it ran on another car (for a short time presumably) does not mean it's OK.
Good luck
Bob.
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Hi Clive.
No, they should not have anything written on them - the writing is on the escutchion.
I was refering to all the other knobs when I was talking about how to restore them.
Mine on window sill awaiting your final decision !
Bob.
Inner cill/door seal
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
I agree, I have not fitted the rubber seal to the bottom of my doors either. I have fitted the similar seal to the front top of door aperture, & that provides useful draft proofing.
Bob.