Lebro
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Posts posted by Lebro
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Looks wrong way round to me !! but the castor angle is correct.
Bob.
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I agree that if it starts with no choke, then it is probably set a little rich.
However it should be possible to set the idle as slow as you like, 800 RPM would be about optimum IMO.
You should have the linkages set so that there is a small amount of movement on the pedal before any movement at all happens to the butterflies, & when they start to move, they should start together.
This way the idle position of the butterflies is determined only by the setting of the idle adjustment screw of the individual carb.
These should be set up when engine is fully warm, by getting the suction even on both, consistent with the desired RPM.
Once this is done, go round again, & check that there is some "slop" between the linkage rod & butterflies, & that they both start opening together, this is done by adjusting the position of the clamped on levers on the rod, & the ball & socket couplings on the throttle pedal rods.
Bob.
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When starting off, does the vibration stop at the moment you lift your foot off the clutch ?
Bob.
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Could be the clutch juddering due to oil leaking onto the friction plate.
Bob.
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Yep, very good did not occur to check out ebay ! Still mine will all go through the standard 35A fuse normally used only for the horns.
Bob.
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Pretty sure I have a new box of those in my "spare parts" drawer.
They came from the TR shop when I was building the car up, but did not use them as the originals were almost new, & in good condition.
Bob.
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Hi Bob.
Can you tell me which relays you ordered?
regards
Dave
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I went for these, as they were fairly cheap, had a mounting tab, & are intended to this type of application.
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Mine will arrive Monday, I have now made up some short extensions to my blue-white, & blue-red wires from dip switch, with spade terms on the end ready for the relays, & have re-wired the horn wires so that they show on the ammeter.
I intend to do one side first, then take a photo of the two beams as they show on my white garage door - that should demonstrate whether the extra brightness is apparent.
Bob.
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Any help ?
Lucas style alternator, & the normal TR shop supplied fitting kit.
Bob.
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That sound normal, as long as the OD disengages there is no power push in the off position it just returns on its own.
Graham
+1
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Only trouble with above is that headlamp current will not show on the ammeter (on Peters schematics, & my text description.)
To allow ammeter to show correctly all current flowing to / from the battery the "Brown" wire should connect to the load side of the ammeter,
and to comply with the TR wire colour code this wire should be brown with a blue stripe.
As I stated above I intend using the +12v wires already going to the horns as my 12V feed to the relays, but I will now slightly alter the wiring on the fuse box so that these wires come from the other side of the ammeter.
Bob.
P.S.
Just re-read the above posts, & have realised that RobH's description is pretty much what I am saying, Must have miss read first time round !
Anyway only real difference is the "current through ammeter" bit.
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Carmine red ?
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What did you do to intice this road rage ??
Bob.
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Peter.
Your 4 relay schematic is equivalent to my option above, only by placing the pairs of relays near the lamps (or horns) there is already a junction of wires there, so the only extra wires to run are two brown wires from 12V to the pairs of relays, & black wires to provide an earth for the relay coils.
Added advantage is the shortest possible run of high current wires.
Bob.
Just been thinking about it, & you don't even need to run the new brown wires, because there are already thick brown wires going to the horns, so a simple bit of re-terminating, and the only new wires are the black earth ones.
Current drawn by lamps will be in the order of 10A, so the fuse rating will have to be able to support that plus horns.
I would be surprised if a standard 35A fuse was not good enough, especially as we are not in the habit of "leaning" on the horn are we ?
I think I have just talked myself into doing it ! 4 relays from RS ordered - £10.20 already got the spade terms, should be done Monday afternoon ! will report back
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I have fitted the above lamps with the night breaker bulbs, & am very happy with them using standard wiring.
However, if I was to bother to go the relay route, my approach would be a little different:
I would route heavy gauge wires from fuse box (ie close to battery / alternator O/P area) to each side of the car - stopping near the horns.
These would have permanent 12V on them. They would be connected (near the horns) to two relays per side on pin 30.
Headlamp bulb wires would then connect to (say) full beam (blue white) to 87 of one relay, & dipped beam (blue red) to 87 of the other.
Same on the other side of the car. Pins 86 on all 4 relays to go to earth.
Finally the blue white wires from the dip switch would go to pin 85 of the full beam relays, & the blue red wires to 87 of the dipped beam relays.
This allows very low currents to flow through the light switch & the dip switch, & associated wires. The only wires carrying high currents are the new 12V wire, & the wires from relays to bulbs, which are relatively short.
Bob.
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Looks to me as if it will screw straight in with no adaptor ?
The TR2 (late) to TR4A housings are all the same, & the photo of the MG bulb + clamping nut looks very much like the early TR ones.
Bob.
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I had exactly the same scenario, my approach was to drill & tap one side of the clamps to take an M4 hex head screw, the height of the head being the exact difference between the two flange thicknesses. I drilled in the centre of the raised "PIP", blind hole only, so it hardly shows.
Bob.
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My first thoughts are HT leads - plugs - coil.
All worth checking / cleaning.
Bob.
Just seen above post which came up while I was typing !
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Both seat, & rack now taken.
Bob.
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Don't forget to put some oil in the sump
:P I would crank over with plugs out till oil pressure comes up.
I believe that once started you should keep the revs at 2000 for 10 mins or so, I'm others will add to that statement.
Bob.
P.S.
Good luck
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Photo's of seat & rack:
Bob.
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Either way it should not happen if the breather is working.
Bob.
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PM replied to !
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I am having a bit of a clear out, & have found passenger seat (early car, so same as the drivers - no hinged back)
Metal only, the back is perfectly OK, but the base has the usual cracks around the rear mounting holes, a few small areas of metal are missing in this area, but it is perfectly restorable with a bit of welding.
Only want the postage (Hermes would probably be cheapest).
Same applies to a boot rack - aluminium frame with wood slats going across. 4 suckers on the 4 feet, & two clamps to hold it down. A bit of TLC would have it looking great !
Bob.
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Sounds as if the hub is assembled wrongly. The disc that the grub screws tighten onto should rotate freely with respect to the hub. It's only purpose is to push one or other of the two small square section pins inwards to cancel the indicators.
Because you have seen the long tube not turning with the wheel, but the hub does, this means the keyed join between the long & short tube is not holding,
or , as Stuart mentioned, the short tube has become detatched from the smaller disk which should be screwed to the hub.
I think you will have to release the grub screws (don't loose them ) & pull the hub out from the wheel to see what is going on.
You may have to release some wiring under the steering box to allow enough to move up through the tubes as you pull the hub out.
There should be enough slack to pull it out enough to see what is going on.
Good luck
Bob.
Fuel leak
in General TR Technical
Posted
You may just need item 34 front, & 34 rear, these are the Jets complete with flexible pipe.
You can't break the jet assy down any further than this. (other than DIY repair!)
Bob.