Lebro
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Posts posted by Lebro
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Wot no fuse ??
Bob.
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+1 for Wanner
Bob
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Above link did not work for me, try:
http://triumph.daveola.com/NOTES/Speedo_Repair.pdf
I agree, it's a very useful document.
Bob.
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Hi John.
Welcome to the forum.
Yes it is possible (easy if you know what you are doing) to set the mileage to what ever you desire, but I don't understand how you managed to change it from the outside ! You will need to remove the speedo, remove the chrome bezel, undo the two small screws on the rear of the case, & allow the inner parts to come out from the front. All will then be revealed. Watch out for the reset mechanism it has to be carefully worked out of the hole in the case.
To change the main odometer reading use a small screwdriver, & persuade the relavent digit around to where you want it. You may have to lift a tiny ratchet spring to acheve this.
Good luck
Bob.
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Are you sure about that, Bob? Seems to be a piece of cake to find a 1-inch extension, 4 psi cap with the right seals. Am I missing something?
Not sure which one you were referring to Don, but if it was GRC 103, then assuming this is the normal one used on TR2's etc then the top "seal" is not a complete seal, it is a thin metal disk, which presses on the top of the filler hole to give some spring to the fitting.
I ground this out, & replaced with a cork seal which does just that, & allows suction to pull the coolant back into the rad.
( also prevents loss of coolant when pushing coolant out into the bottle).
Bob.
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I'm in a similar situation to Graham. The fuel tap is still 'in situ' but bypassed. I thought it worth removing, cleaning up and replacing but had also read about leaking problems. I'm encouraged by Bob's experience with a rubber washer.
Rod
P.S. I also thought it might give a crumb of comfort if it were driven off by a thief and stopped for no apparent reason after a short distance!
To expand on my solution, I replaced the cork seal (it's a cylinder with a hole in it) with a short section of fuel piping chosen to be the right diameter.
Bob.
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You should have it on the V left side at "20" that means it will measure DC voltage up to 20 Volts.
You should see 12V or there abouts. Your result suggests that you have no voltage on there at all.
I may be confused about what you are trying to measure.
If you just want to get rid of the plug, then remove the wire which goes to the centre pin, & connect to +ve 12V
& the other (outside connection) to ground.
This assumes -ve earth.
Bob.
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The positive side of the twin black wire is usually marked with 3 or so raised lines running along it's length.
But check it with a meter first.
Positive to centre pin, -ve to side.
Bob.
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Hhmm...
I store mine the other way round with the legs / arms pointing towards the boot trim panel. Thought they would pose less of a threat to the wiring and rear of the boot this way (and a damaged card panel is easy to replace) but each to their own. I have a small version of those foam garage kneeler pads between the two screens to protect the windows but which may also be useful when scrabbling under the car at the roadside.
Yes, there is lots of space to store odds and sods in a 3A. I find that a collection of 99p, black sponge bags are useful for holding a range of spare items and can be tucked under the rear boot lip and alongside and in the spare wheel.
If you can store them the other way round then I suspect you do not have the supporting strut under the central boot lock, as that would be in the way of the top of the sidescreen.
Bob.
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Mine now has a rubber one, & does not leak !!!
Bob.
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Alternatively, It may just be that the dogs on the 2nd gear, and / or the dogs on the 2nd gear synchro hub are worn.
This happens after many gear crunches (beating the syncro, or lazy clutch foot etc).
I have had this on 2 X Landrover boxes, & a Morris 1000 box.
If the gear lever seems to "click" into place when engaging 2nd then it probably is not the selector mechanism.
Bob.
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Just to add to that further !
The "out" seal opens at 4PSI, the "back in" seal is simply a one way valve, & requires only a tiny pressure difference.
Bob.
P.S.
This is the system I have on my TR3, only snag is it's hard (impossible?) to find the rad cap with the top seal in the length required for the TR3 rad.
I modified my standard rad cap by removing the thin metal "seal" (not really a proper seal), & replacing it with a home made cork one.
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Mine also fit as described above.
Bob.
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I too would recommend changing to -ve earth.
Bob.
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Stuck thermostat ?
Bob.
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Sorry, but sounds like turbo bearings to me !
Bob.
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Sounds spot on to me Roger, though I never quite understood why the carrier can also rotate.
Would it not be better locked to the forks in some way ?
Bob.
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Sounds like something is not right with the release mechanism somewhere, you may have no choice but to pull it apart again
Bob.
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How old is the engine ? A rattling gear lever is one of the symptoms of worn main bearings.
Bob.
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An unmodified saloon box will have a different input shaft, different output flange, different overdrive inhibit switches (3rd, & top only) a reversing light switch, the speedo drive will be at a different speed ( 2.5:1 for TR box, 3.5:1 for saloon), & if overdrive fitted the overdrive will not be as strong internally as TR, & will have the wrong rear casing to match your mountings.
Other than that they are exactly the same !!
Also see:
http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/58409-tr4a-gearbox/
Bob.
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I used this style from a Range Rover tail gate wash wipe.
Turn for wipe, push to wash.
Fits where the orig wiper switch goes
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/979
Peter W
Nice
Bob.
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So did I
Works a treat
Bob.
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The metal body of the solenoid would normally make contact with the body where it is bolted on.
It's possible that paint may be blocking this connection.
Bob.
Hydraulic reservoir leaking from the top
in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
Posted
Recently had to strip & re-paint my resovoir as the paint was peeling off. Whilst at it I noticed a small tear in the original seal in the cap.
dug it all out, & replaced with a rubber seal stolen from a corresponding sized cap from my Gunson easybleed kit (which I don't use any more)
So far so good.
I also noticed that the paint under the resovior, & around the cylinder mount base was affected. Not peeling, but more "pickled" looking.
This paint was two pack, so it seems more able to resist the nasty stuff, but only partially.
Bob.