Lebro
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Posts posted by Lebro
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Lubricating the nose where the bearing carrier slides is a good thing to do IMO, but I have never put anything on the splines, because dirt, grit etc can stick to any lubricant on them, & can cause the driven plate to jam up.
Silly question, but you have fitted the 2 dowels which locate the box on the engine ?
(I knew you would have)
Bob.
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Hard to say Roger, but it cannot help. I can imagine a circular scuffing action between the bearing & the clutch fingers.
Why not look into a way to make it concentric - maybe stretch a mounting hole or two ?
Bob.
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Hi Pete. When changed to alternator fitted a narrow pulley and thin belt. Was running with Lucas 36A alternator but part of answer from auto electrics when I went back to them was to say fit more powerful alternator so have a Lucas 45A fitted at moment. Have also recently changed fan belt and re tensioned it just in case this was problem. Today I tried exciter cable fix that has been mentioned. I ran a cable from terminal of ignition warning lamp and connected that directly to alternator via the spare large spade connector. However all that did was light up the ignition warning light without putting ignition switch on. I was going to change this cable to the smaller spade connector but need to get a double connector to do this. I will try this tomorrow hopefully it won't do any damage to alternator. Thanks Dick
The two large terminals on the alternator are connected to the same place internally, & are the main output, normally only one of these is used.
The smaller terminal is the one which needs a supply from the ignition circuit - normally via the ign warning lamp.
Bob.
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My TR4 has been converted to negative earth and fitted with Alternator. Problem is when start engine, ignition warning light does not go out and ammeter shows slight discharge until I rev engine to 2000rpm. At this point warning light goes out and ammeter shows charging in progress. As soon as I take foot off accelerator and revs drop down warning light comes back on etc. So when car is idling there is a discharge showing on ammeter. I have changed alternator to see if this was faulty but got same result. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
From the description above once you have rev'd the engine the light goes out, & you get a charge. Once this has happened the alternator will supply it's own field current, so the type of bulb is no longer an issue. The odd part is that the light comes back on again at tickover - it shouldn't.
Bob.
Bob
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"F" is for "Field" this is the low current circuit required to energise, & regulate the main output of the generator. The thinner wire goes to this on the smaller connector.
The larger terminal is the main output of the generator, needs a thicker wire, & goes to "D" on the regulator.
Bob.
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Agree with Peter, but surely the same parts can be assembled the other way round to make it RH ?
Bob.
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I changed mine to a diaphragm type, I used a "GT6" one from the TR shop.
I did this because I was fitting a saloon gearbox, & the input shaft splines are different.
This was in 2013, & the clutch has behaved perfectly so far, & is quite light in operation.
I did have to drill & tap new mounting holes, & dowel holes in the flywheel.
Bob.
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+1, but:
Most alternators need a feed to get started - usually supplied from ign sw, through the ign warning lamp, then to the field circuit of the alternator.
But once the alternator has started producing it's own voltage, that will then take over, (the warning lamp goes off. cos it's got 12V on both sides)
& dropping to tickover would not normally stop it from producing some charge.
Bob.
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Did you fit gasket's under the hinges ?
Bob.
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In my opinion The only things directly connected to the battery should be the starter motor (via the solenoid and the -ve side of the ammeter.
If you start connecting other things direct to the battery, even if fused, the ammeter will not give you a true reading of what is going in, or out of the battery.
Bob.
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The dash-mounted OD switch on a sidescreen car is kind of goofy. Quaint, though.
As a guy of a certain generation, I can't help thinking about ejector seats when I visualize shift knob-mounted switches. Were I modding a switch, it would be red and underneath a flip-top knob!
The name's Hiscock,-------- Don Hiscock
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Anything can be disassembled - it's whether you can put it back together that matters
Bob.
P.S. I would be very surprised if you could not reverse the polarity of the LED
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To add to my post above, the new seal (stolen from my Gunsun easybleed kit) is working.
Did 360 odd miles to Lincoln & back, + some local mileage, & still bone dry on the outside.
So I think all you need is a thicker seal.
Bob.
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Well done, cannot have been a pleasant job in this heat.
Why is it, when refitting gearboxes to engines, that you spend anything up to an hour adjusting the height, the sideways angle, rotating the splines & it still won't go, then after a brief rest you try again, & it just slides on as if nothing was ever wrong !
Bob.
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Was the car still running when you noticed the zero oil pressure?
If Yes, was there any horrible ratles, noises etc?
If No, think about the guage or oil feed pipe - simplest and cheapest things first!
Good Luck.
John.
+1
Bob.
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Bob.
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If you wait a couple of days it will be cooler.
Are you sure it is not a hydraulic problem ?
Bob.
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Mine is not converted, & I use no additives.
Still running just fine. If & when The valves recess, then I will take the head off & do something about it, but not before.
Bob.
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I think I saw one at the IWE bring and buy.
Yes, so did I
Bob.
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Any flexible hose of the right size will do the job, E.G. vacuum cleaner hose etc.
Bob.
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Use the original pressure cap (4 lbs, I think) Need more info on the length of the inside of the cap
Install an overflow bottle: the tube next to the radiator cap can be routed into the overflow bottle. And there are more sophisticated systems pictured on the forum.
1 inch (25.4mm) is the correct projection.
If using overflow bottle then a modified rad cap is needed to give a good seal on the top rim, otherwise coolant will not be drawn back into rad.
Otherwise all very sound advice.
Bob.
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Recently had to strip & re-paint my resovoir as the paint was peeling off. Whilst at it I noticed a small tear in the original seal in the cap.
dug it all out, & replaced with a rubber seal stolen from a corresponding sized cap from my Gunson easybleed kit (which I don't use any more)
So far so good.
I also noticed that the paint under the resovior, & around the cylinder mount base was affected. Not peeling, but more "pickled" looking.
This paint was two pack, so it seems more able to resist the nasty stuff, but only partially.
Bob.
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Wot no fuse ??
Bob.
clutch noise
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
My fingers also crossed for you
Bob.