Lebro
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Posts posted by Lebro
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Different scenario. with the oil pressure gauge, there is an infinite supply of oil (well nearly) waiting to be pumped up the pipe to compress the air, & move any oil on the other side of the "bubble".
In the case of brakes, you only have what is in the master cylinder bore. With air in the brake lines as you press the pedal it feels spongy because the air is compressing, & you run out of pedal movement before you have generated enough pressure to apply the brakes fully.
If you had a very long master cylinder containing lots of fluid, then you would eventually be able to build up enough pressure to fully apply the brakes.
You can cheat a bit but "pumping" the pedal, that gets a bit more fluid in the pipes by beating the fluids return into the resevoir.
Probably not explained it very well ! but hope you get the gist.
Bob.
Or, to put it another way, in both cases the pressure at the pump equals the pressure at the end of the pipe run.
but in the case of the oil pump, it just keeps on going till air is fully compessed, with the brakes, the "pump" runs out of movement, & so the full pressure cannot be obtained.
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Dohh !!
Oh well, next time I get under there I may re-adjust, but it all seem to run very well as is, & any tire wear is not even visible.
Bob.
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I started mine once with the pipe disconnected from the gauge - messy.
Bob.
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Please don't use WD40, use a proper aerosol switch cleaner (Maplins etc).
WD40 thickens as the solvents in it evaporate.
Bob.
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Excellent stuff, well done.
Bob.
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What was his (or her's) name ?
Bob.
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+1
Bob.
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I can't believe that any speaker would last long there, My hole is welded up (if you see what I mean !)
Bob.
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Each side, according to Wikipedia, & I think that's how I did mine.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toe_(automotive)
Bob.
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Do you have to unscrew the dashboard to get to the regulator?
Would you consider exchanging this bimetal regulator with an electronic one a violation of the originality of the car?
Just the centre panel, it should be behind there.
Some people do that, I could not possibly comment !!
Bob.
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Austin.
Is the oil cooler adaptor not simply a plate fitted between the normal oil filter top casting & the block ?
It looks that way from the photo. If so just remove it, & bolt the casting direct to the block (with gasket of course) using shorter screws.
or is it more complicated than that ??
Bob.
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The fuel gauge & the temperature gauge both use a stabilised voltage to eliminate variations in reading due to changing engine revs / battery voltage.
The stabilizer is in a small metal can (approx. 40mm X 25mm) with two terminals on it.
It is situated behind the dashboard, usually clamped to the rear of one of the gauges. It connects to ground via it's metal casing.
It is a crude device employing a bimetal strip, which heats up when ignition is switched on, & when at a certain temperature, it disconnects the feed to the gauges (& it's self), as it cools down it reconnects, and starts to heat up, & so on.
This all happens very rapidly, & results in a fairly constant average output voltage. The rapid on / off output is smoothed out by the gauges.
If Fuel gauge is definitely reading OK (empty tank = E on gauge, & full tank = F on gauge), then I would suspect something else, e.g. sender, or a badly calibrated gauge.
To measure the output of the stabiliser you will need to use an analogue voltmeter (avo 8 etc) to average out the pulses. A digital one will not give a sensible reading.
Regarding the main battery charging voltage regulator - don't touch it !!
Bob.
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If you are measuring this with engine running at 1000 + revs, then the dynamo is not working. BUT ---
Do you mean the main battery charging regulator as in your photo,
or the small voltage stabiliser which feeds power to the fuel, & temperature gauge ?
If the latter, you would not normally need to adjust, but there is a small screw in the back (usually sealed with varnish) which will alter the average output voltage.
If fuel gauge reads OK, then may I suggest that your car may be running cold due to failed thermostat.
Bob.
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Just get rid of the dam thing, you don't need it. !!!!
Bob.
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SM should work OK (as used on the H6's) or TW (HS6's in TR4A)
They have almost identical profiles.
Bob.
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S Steel + grease will last for decades.
Bob.
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DIY
Bob
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Ian.
See this page from Moss catalogue, & Otter web page
They work on the bi-metallic strip principal.
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/water-pipes-and-fan-switches.html
http://www.ottercontrols.co.uk/y1-series.html
Bob.
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Yep. Was offered a T2000 box with O/D for free during the rebuild. Would have been rude to refuse !
Alternative was a 3 synchro non O/D box in unknown condition.
Had the O/D rebuilt by Hardy engineering, who converted it to TR spec except for speedo drive ratio, the box was OK (& still is)
Bob.
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Looks like I did the same:
Bob.
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I am assuming (always dangerous) that you had an "Otter switch" controlling your fan.
All the Kenlow fans I have seen have had a variable controller which connects to the top hose via a capillary tube.
Anyway, The Otter switches are usually pretty reliable, although I did have one fail on me a couple of years ago.
I had replace my Revotec controller with an Otter switch when the former failed on me - causing the relay to chatter as soon as the cold engine was started. The first Otter switch failed in as much that it's operating temperature - which had been spot on previously - started to change so that the fan was coming on at much lower temperatures. The TR shop (where I bought it) sent me a new one, & that has been fine ever since.
The one I use is rated at ON 92°C OFF 87°C I find this is just right, My car runs normally at around 183°F (sorry about the mixed units), & the fan stays off. In traffic it slowly rises (no mechanical fan) to around 195, the fan cuts in, & drops it down to around 185, then switches off.
I think a relay in the circuit is a very good idea.
Bob.
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Hi Phil.
You do not need an angle drive, the cable exits the overdrive on the right, angled downwards at about 45°.
This passes through a slot in the gearbox cover, & through a hole in the floor. These last two openings are covered with a complicated looking rubber "grommet", which is held in place with two metal strips screwed in to the floor / gearbox cover.
The cable then turns forward, & runs along the chassis till it gets to the front bulkhead, where it turns up, into the engine compartment near the rear carb, then turns back, & passes through a grommet into the car behind the speedo.
Not sure about the length without looking it up, but a look in the parts book, or Moss / Rimmers web pages should clear that one up.
Cheers
Bob.
TR6 Trickle charger
in General TR Technical
Posted
+1, but you will need a regulator to go with it.
Bob.