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Lebro

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Posts posted by Lebro

  1. Just though of something else.

    If you existing clutch cover is the coil spring type, then either the release mechanism in the gearbox will have to be changed to match, or, you will have to fit a diaphram clutch cover to suit the gearbox. This latter option will mean re drilling the flywheel as the holes are not in the same place.

    An alternative to using an adaptor mount for the overdrive would be to have it re-built with the correct rear casing. These are used on TR's & Healey 3000's

    My local gearbox specialists (Hardy Engineering) rebuilt mine (I have a 2000 box in my TR3) with the 3000 rear casing, & also added parts to bring it up to TR spec.  They did not change the speedo drive (I guess they could have done) so I had to modify my speedo to read correctly (another story !)

    Bob

  2. Other things to consider, the rear flange on the box has the wrong hole spacing to fit the TR propshaft. The speedo drive is a 3.5:1 reduction  whereas the TR setup is 2.5:1, so speedo will read slow. Finally the clutch is different, but simple fix is use the 2000 friction plate in the TR cover plate. The overdrive is not as strong as the TR one, & so is only used on 3rd, ,& 4th gear.

    Bob

  3. 1410431418_Penny2.thumb.jpg.e45b91ca951f6bc0ec960644aa74264f.jpg 3f529388-3c7a-4a25-8cd2-62ca240114f9.thumb.jpg.67265ccaf0274bb899c2e02269dd0a91.jpg 925890647_Goodwood76.thumb.jpg.91834ab7d16705dd6c3dea4b584fefc7.jpg

     SWMBO driving car at Donnington '76                     Me at Goodwood '76 (background)              Me again behind Niel Revington Goodwood '76

  4. The circuit it clearly meant to control the speed of a motor. I'm wondering if the LED's are providing sufficient load for the circuit to work properly..

    Harry. I can make you a simple dimmer if you like, can you detail exactly which LEDs you want to use, & how many. Also not having a TR4 I am not clear on what the normal dimmer (or switch) & knob look like, & how the knob is attached to the switch (or dimmer)

    227b3731-fb0f-4b31-a095-74035791d604.thumb.jpg.5b85d1350475bec017014b355a03837a.jpg 6e494b01-3a0d-45e1-a4dc-351137a04117.thumb.jpg.ad9e551dfbf58b1f424cefbe23541def.jpg ad55ec57-239b-43e6-8b33-a4fe90f1c92a.thumb.jpg.72fd25e8182aac00ddad68aac8888c4b.jpg

    This is how I did it for my TR3

    Bob 

  5. I had occasion to compare readings from my Lidl digital caliper against a Mituyoyo digital micrometer which I bought second hand. The resolution was not there, as not as many decimal points are shown, but it was totaly accurate. quite impressed by that for such a cheap device.

    I used to be able to easily read the vernier scales on these things, but these days it's a struggle without a fair amount of magnification, so a digital version makes life much easier.

    Bob

  6. Beat me to it. Symptoms suggest open circuit between tank sender, & "T" terminal on gauge.

    1st check when in fault mode (full tank showing) would be to ground the wire going to the sender at the sender. Gauge should go to empty.

    Bob

  7. The biggest mistake may have been removing the field coils from the casing. They will be difficult to replace such that they do ot contact the spinning armature.

    Regarding the insulation test, 2.5k is no where near high enough  but you may have just been measuring yourself ! If you were holding the probes onto the armature with bare fingers

    Bob

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