Percy TR6
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Posts posted by Percy TR6
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Yep - well chuffed! Next on the list are the rear hubs....as soon as Santa has been. :-)
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Well, it's taken a while but I have finally completed the gearbox/clutch challenge.
Unbolted the gearbox & installed the 2 dowel alignment bolts (which were missing)
Installed new bushes on the clutch & brake pedals
Installed an adjustable push rod at the clutch master cylinder to take up the excess play due to wear on the pedal
I now have a smooth progressive clutch & the release bearing no longer squeals! Let's hope it stays that way.
I realise this is basic stuff to many on the forum but finding the courage to start unbolting the bell housing was a huge step for me! Thanks as usual to all those who patiently responded to my numptie questions - it is appreciated.
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Double post in error
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Bit confused now...the Brown Book mentions 9 upper & 7 lower bolts holding the gearbox to the engine and on my car there does seem to be 16 bolts around the bell housing but there also appears to be one missing - ie it looks like there should be 17 bolts. The missing one is in the bottom left quadrant - above where the dowel should be. Is this normal?
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Well, having looked at the car this morning, it would seem that there is wear in the clevis pin hole in the pedal and on the holes in the master cylinder push rod. I read somewhere on the forum that even a little play at the pedal end translates into a big difference at the clutch, so here's hoping. I also noticed there are no return springs fitted.....
Next step is to inspect the bell housing and determine if dowels are fitted. I'm hoping that I will be able to better align the gearbox, remove the play in the pedal and clutch mechanism and maybe have a nice smooth clutch once again. Fingers crossed.
Steve
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Stuart - will the bushes address the back & fore play too? There doesn't appear to be any wear at the slave end.You also seem to have back and fore play as well.
Stuart.
EDITED:
SORRY - just re-read your post Stuart & realise you mean where the pedal connects to the master & not at the slave! All makes sense now!
Steve
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As ever, the more you look the more you find.......
As I began to strip the car to get to the gearbox this morning, I noticed there was a lot of play in the clutch pedal - both vertically and horizontally. The attached video shows this at the connection to the clutch master cylinder.
https://goo.gl/photos/2XRUCeh6uqGC2jHs7
What I don't know is whether or not this is normal and if not:
- how much of an impact it might be having on my clutch problems and what I need to do to fix it?
All input gratefully received as usual.
Thanks
Steve
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Here is a good article as well as many others for info on the clutch and other items. See further down this article for the positioning of the dowels.
John
John - not sure if I am just being stupid but I can't see any link to an article in your post.
Steve
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Thanks all. I will start pulling the car apart and see what transpires.
Steve
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Hi all,
For some time I have had a bit of a problem with the gearbox on my TR6 - more specifically, with the clutch which can be sticky in action. Its only an issue when pulling away in first but I think the time has come for me to resolve it.
The gearbox was removed (not by me) a couple of years ago to replace the starter ring gear and it hasn't been the same since, so having read through other posts, I am wondering if it may simply be an alignment issue.
My first plan of action is to loosen the bell housing bolts slightly, engage the clutch a few times then retighten the bolts to see if I can pull things into alignment.
Several posts mention special aligning dowel bolts but I can see no mention of these in the brown book or the Haynes manual. Some posts mention two bolts, others three. It may well be that these are missing.
Can anyone confirm which of the 9 upper and 7 lower bolts these should be and how I would recognise them?
Thanks
Steve
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I had a similar problem with the nearside indicators which was turned out to be a poor earth at the rear bulb holder. Sometimes worked, other times not. A good clean eventually resolved it.
Steve
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Hi all,
After rooting around for possible causes to this, I am not much further forward.
The sound sounds as if its coming from the area around the bottom rear end of the drivers door. Its only noticeable at low speeds when going over potholes (its probably there at higher speeds too but masked by other noises). The nearest bit of moving structure I can identify is the rear trailing arm. Could it be worn bushes? Is that a place to start?
Any suggestions would be gratefully received!
Steve
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Well, the only thing worse than a problem is a problem you can't identify.
Checked the wheel nuts this morning - all good and tight. So, jacked it up and wiggled the wheels. No apparent movement unless I wiggle them so hard the whole car shakes.
Took the wheels off. Hub nuts seem fine and a visual inspection round about revealed nothing more than a worn rubber bush on the offside rear damper link.
No further forward. I guess the next step is to go back to the guy who did the MOT and quiz him about how he came to the conclusion there is slight play in the rear hubs and see if that helps.
I mentioned noises coming from the rear quarter yesterday. Having read a few other posts I thought I should say that the noises I hear are not squeals or squeaks of a bearing nature but occasional clunks - only heard when going at low speed over bumps/potholes. It sounds as if something solid is bashing into something else solid but everything down below seems to be secure. I'm wondering if it may be the jack or tools bouncing in the boot - sounds a bit far fetched, I know, but I will empty the boot and see if it goes away.
Steve
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Hi Steve
I had a similar knocking noise, have a look at the thread that I started. http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/52581-diff-bushes/
Not sure if it's cured the knocking noise yet though.
Kevo - I am under the impression that the bushes are all poly....but wouldn't swear by it.
I guess its time to have a wee play and looksee.
Steve
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Regarding the play - make sure it is the hub bearings and not loose hub nuts or wheel nuts etc.
Roger
Thanks for the feedback chaps.
I will check the hub nuts & wheel nuts as well as researching replacements.
I have noticed an occasional knocking sound from the area of the offside rear wheel when going over bumps.......I'm now wondering if something is more loose than the MOT picked up?!?
Steve
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Took Percy for his MOT yesterday. He passed with one advisory - slight play in both rear hubs.
I have no idea what would cause play in my rear hubs but was wondering if this is something that might be easy to address? I've had a look through the Brown book and a Haynes manual but can't see any obvious references.
Steve
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As a rule of thumb and a start point try bringing the No.1 piston to TDC,the No1 plug lead outlet from the distributor should be roughly pointing at the No.1 plug,it's always worked for me to get the engine to fire, you then have to fine tune the distributor until the engine will run and then time it properly. I must admit though I have never had to do it on my "6" but it has always worked on other cars.
Thanks Clive - followed your instructions, opened the choke fully and it started first time! I'll have a proper go at it tomorrow when I can open the garage door!
Steve
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Hi Steve,
can't help with the timing but when the dizzy rotated could it have pulled any wires off anywhere - externally/internally
Roger
I will have a good look Roger, but I did actually get the car to start and run for a few seconds at one point, which s why I'm thinking plugs/timing......though what I know about this stuff could be written on the back of a postage stamp!
Steve
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Having given Percy a thorough service, I seem to have created a problem for myself.
Although it was running well before I began, I now can't get the car to start.
It feels like it wants to start but fires then dies.
When checking the plugs, I noticed the distributor bracket was loose.....I nudged it as I removed plug 3 and it spun around about 45 degrees! :-(
Given this, I am wondering if this is where I should start looking? I've tried to move it back to where I thought it was but I can't be sure. Is there a simple way to get it roughly back to where it should be or am I barking up the wrong tree.
I haven't confirmed all the plugs are sparking but guess I need to do that as a matter of course?
Anything else I should be looking at?
As always, thanks in advance!
Steve
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Here is an extract from Moss Catalog - http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/steering-suspension/steering/steering-racks-mountings-inner-columns.html
If you feel that you need to lube, then you acquire parts 41 42 and 43 and replace you hex bolt plug. This should give you the capability you are looking for.
Richard
Thanks Richard
I thought I had part 41 fitted & ordered 42 & 43 only to discover that not only is the plug installed on my car different to part 41 in the catalogue, but that part 41 is no longer available from Moss or Rimmers.
Guess I will just have to fight my desire to lubricate!
Steve
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The little hex plug should be removable to swap for a grease nipple.
Stuart.
Stuart - I initially assumed the same and assumed both the hex plug and grease nipple were missing so ordered replacements. However, both parts are too small for the hole which is there. If I undo the plug with a large allen key, I will be left with a hole about an inch across.....
That looks like mine where what looks like a hex plug is a broached hex hole for an allen key presumably. I assumed mine is greased for life so I won't be worrying about it unless it becomes troublesome, then it's a replacement rack.
I am now wondering whether I should follow Peejay's path or attempt to undo the plug.
Steve
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As part of the annual maintenance, the Brown Bible says I should grease the rack & pinion.
I assumed this was achieved via the big silver plug at the bottom of the steering rack. However, on my car, this plug seems to have a hex plug within the bigger bolt/plug and no facility for inserting a grease nipple (see attached photos).
Am I looking in the wrong place?
Should I remove the hex plug?
Do I need to replace the entire part?
Any and all suggestions gratefully received!
Steve
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I have the same problem as described in this thread but having removed the lock stops it appears they offer no adjustment at all.
I have seen replacement parts on Rimmers and Moss but they also look concentric. Is it possible to get eccentric collars anywhere?
Steve
***IGNORE THIS POST ****
I have answered my own question - Revington offer both a larger diameter stop and an eccentric one.
Steve
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What fun this is turning out to be!
Having tried several ways of removing the sump drain plug (sockets, spanners, mole grips etc) without any success I have now arranged for someone to come and weld a hex nut onto the rapidly rounding square head and see if that works.
All part of the learning curve!
Steve
Clutch Action - Taper Pin
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Having experienced a somewhat notchy engagement in first gear for a while, I recently checked the gearbox and discovered the alignment dowels were missing. Having installed dowels I also took the opportunity to remove excessive play from the clutch mechanism - new bushes on the pedal and an adjustable rod on the master to take up slack caused by wear in the pedal.
Engagement is now much better and I can pull away from the lights smoothly. However, the clutch will only fully disengage at max pedal travel - and even then, only if I connect the slave at the top hole. Its only a problem in first and reverse, but its a problem nonetheless an needs to be corrected.
Having read through other posts on the subject, I am being led to a supposition that the taper pin may be broken. Unfortunately, it seems that I will need to remove the gearbox in order to get to it. Joy of joys!
Given this, I am throwing this out there to see if there is anything else (more accessible) that I might have overlooked?
Both master and slave are relatively new and leak free. I have checked for excessive play at the master and cannot see any. Fluid is also new.
Thanks in advance,
Steve