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About lachouette

  • Birthday 06/28/1952

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  1. Thanks everyone. From your various replies, it seems that I need to unscrew the two small screws in the body of the Steering lock (no way I would have noticed those without your help!), extract the switch (the white plastic barrel) and disconnect it from the loom, then replace with a new switch. I am assuming that the metal barrel that the key goes into simply operates the steering lock, and the positioning of the key (Off, Aux, Ignition, Start) is controlled within the switch barrel? Sorry, I'm hampered by not being at the car right now, so this is homework to get me up to speed
  2. Thankyou Laurence! I'll try that. I'm not at the car just now (waiting for a flight at Gatwick). I managed to get a look at the white block at the back of the switch with the wires, hoping that I could jiggle it about and remove it so I could "hot wire" the connections, but I don't remember seeing a plastic cone shaped cover. I'll take a closer look when I get back, but I may need to take the seat out in order to get under the dash for a proper look. Thanks again, Andy
  3. The identical thing happened to me first time out with one of my brand new SUs in my '6. Being in a hurry I glued it back in with Araldite, and set off on a 60 mile journey. Its done around 15,000 miles since and the araldite is still holding, but you have reminded me that I should do a more "permanent" fix.
  4. My ignition switch has just lost its central "drive" position. After turning the key the engine fires, but then dies as the ignition switch reverts to the "off" position (although the fuel pump keeps running, but the ignition and oil lights go out, and no feed to the coil/distributor). Being integral with the steering lock its an absolute B!!stard to remove. Any suggestions as to an alternative fix, or else any tips for removing the steering lock? Andy Mimosa TR6 KAU 352N
  5. Easy. Comparing satnav distances with odometer readings over 4,500 indicated miles! Not so easy to deduce the cause. The overdrive is a later fitting to a USA car. A-type on a 74 reg car. Messing with speedo/odometer beyond my capability at present.
  6. My insurance limit is 5,000 miles. I've just done an indicated 4,500 miles taking part in the Norway grand tour organised by our Norwegian friends. So I am getting close to the limit. However my odometer overreads by around 15%, so in reality I've only driven just under 4,000 miles, which leaves me 1,000 miles for the rest of the year, which this year is probably enough for me. Has anyone argued this point with their insurance company?
  7. Why bother? You have to drive long and hard in a TR6 (esp if you have overdrive) before valve seat recession sets in. Castrol Valvemaster should sort your worries.
  8. Hi guys, Here's a tester for you! I drove 4,000 mile last year in my TR6 with no mechancal intervention. At this year's MOT/maintenance check (90 minutes drive each way) I was told I had gearbox and diff oil leaks. The diff is a recent (2 yrs) replacement, the age of the gearbox is unknown. Neither drops any significant amounts of oil onto my garage floor. However I do get the ocasional whiff of hypoy on hard acceleration or cornering. (leaking from the rear seal onto the exhaust pipe?) I've driven crappy british cars for tens of thousands of miles, and never checked t
  9. Thanks all for your help. Now I've got the measure of the problem. I'll let you know if I make it back from Italy. Andy
  10. Thanks guys. I've distilled your advice down to : Need a relay Bigger fuse Bypass the fuse box. And I'll probably wire in an indicator light on the dash, as the voltage drop is a useful warning that the fan has started, and I'll really miss it. But its probably worth that to avoid frying fuses and thermo switches and the ensuing steamy dramas. Thanks again, Andy
  11. Thanks for your replies. Regarding your relay suggestion, Neil, any relay would have to be fitted between the thermostatic switch and the fan motor. The Kenlowe fan kit isn't supplied with a separate relay, so I guess the thermo switch is adequately rated to take the full load. I could separately wire the whole caboodle, but I would still need to fuse it, and I would still get the same problem with overloading the 35A fuse. I'm still wondering if the fan is drawing more current than it should. Perhaps I should just hot-wire it off the battery.
  12. When the Kenlowe fan cuts in on my TR6 the voltmeter reading drops to about 11v (from 14v) and when idling, engine revs fall. Also the 35amp fuse in the fuse box feeding the fan gets hot and has blown on occasions. Assuming it's drawing around 35 amps @ 12 volts suggests the fan is taking around half a kilowatt of power. Is this right? Or is something wrong in the circuit or the fan motor. Any advice would be welcomed as I am contemplating a trip to Italy in July, and will probably be relying quite heavily on the fan to keep us all cool, particularly when crawling up an alp behind bicycle
  13. Not that I know of. On the way out I got the ferry from Harwich to Esjberg, then drove the 300 or so km across Denmark to Copenhagen, (possibly the most boring drive in Europe), then got another overnight ferry from Copenhagen to Oslo. Where I got breathalysed driving off the ferry - passed, OK, but not a great welcome to Norway. Returning from Norway to the UK I did the same route in reverse. Other participants drove up through Germany. I think the ferry was easier but more expensive.
  14. My TR6 has been developing an increasingly insistent rattle from somewhere behind my right ear. It was bugging me all round Norway last September, and reached a crescendo free-wheeling down the corrugated ramp off the ferry in Copenhagen. Bodywork - Check. Loose tools rattling in the boot - check. It seemed to be worse when I eased off the pedal. Reluctantly concluded it must be shot UJ's, rattling under no-load. Cleaning the car yesterday after a muddy pub run with London Group on Sunday I discovered that it was the wheel centre TR6 badge coming unscrewed and rattling against the pl
  15. We all know that with carburettor engines, 95% of the time its electrics. However with Triumph injection motors its the other way round. 95% of the time its fuel supply. And in my experience, the most frequent culprit is a blocked or stuck injector. I now run on carbs. It eliminates half of the potential problems. 0.5 problems = 2x trouble-free TR6 motoring. Simples! Andy
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