Stanpartmanpartwolf
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Posts posted by Stanpartmanpartwolf
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Well I think you're crackers & should get a Diesel TR with cable brakes, just to be extra safe.
I had one o' them dribbly oil pressure gauge pipes in my cockpit once you know.
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Plugs are 1/4"BSPT- I usually have some around.
They can become brittle if the crank has been Nitrided & are rarely easy to remove.
To start, try a heavy blow with hammer & bronze punch, take a short 1/4" mounted hex bit & wrench & tighten the plug. If you're lucky, this will spring the threads & out it comes. If not, apply some heat & repeat. Next, start undoing; you've nothing to lose now. Either the plug plays ball or it splits, rounds out, or the hex bit yields.
Next, drill the wounded plug out to 5/16" or 8mm, get hold of a really high-quality 4-point fluted extractor (Mac Tools are best, then Snap-On).
Never, EVER use Sunday market £1 specials or you'll be into spark erosion territory.
In with the extractor, don't be shy, & unwind the plug with a large tap wrench or a 12 point socket & wrench (fits a square fine).
If you are having the crank Tuftrided or Nitrided, tidy the threads up & refit any surviving or fresh plugs just nipped in- this protects the threads from filling with grud, which is a swine to tap out after.
True the crank after hardening.
If you're a proper fuss-pot, rebalance the crank once the new plugs are threadlocked in.
Er, that's it
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Trunnions are most likely sticking; 3deg castor is plenty, camber will have no real effect on tall skinny tyres.
Offset will be correct on any TR wheel, not so with 70-spoke centrelace wires, for example; 6" ones are a ghastly drive.
Try a very early TR4 with its fast rack, short steering arms, zero castor & crossplies for a good fright.
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Er, ho-ho; what was a joke just became a bad joke.
The premises & communications skills of our "100% seller" would make those of Stig of the Dump look palatial & effortless. Allegedly.
Possibly best avoided?
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Hi Graeme-
I took a set of County HD Std big-ends out of a steel crank/Carrillo engine recently & found copper showing in several spots on each shell, in a common pattern.
The wear pattern was consistent with dimensional inaccuracy & had nothing to do with thrust washers, load or any other normal factor. I suspect a hiccup somewhere in manufacture leading to high spots in the copper coating, though haven't a clue how or why this could happen.
It didn't blow up or run the bearings, but the sight of copper was somewhat alarming.
As with all repro parts, I suppose it pays to check & check again during assembly, though this type of occurrence is certainly rare.
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County are available in regular (aluminium, like Glacier), or HD (lead/copper) specs. I've always used the latter, with no problems.
Glacier were OE after Vandervell.
Heritage did reproduce the OE VP shells, though I'm unsure of their availability.
Bottom line is: there are very few "bad" bearings out there (County HD TR2-4A), but of lousy crank grinders & cockeyed rods there are plenty...
The Plastigage never lies.
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Just make a template from cardboard, then transcribe to 0.8mm soft alloy sheet.
You can seal it with a polyurethane sealant, Dum-Dum, or double-sided body moulding tape, then fix in with neat self-tappers.
It's well worth preventing the original filler cap latch from tripping if nudged.
The early type can either be taped, or drilled & lockwired across the cap to the hinge.
The later type can be drilled through sideways above the latch & an R clip inserted to limit its movement.
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Top end leaning-out is not the fault of the needle profiles & never was. There are legions of SU-equipped TRs out there running, well, "needle-shaped" needles in a futile attempt to cure it.
SUs require a great deal more thought & fettling to function as intended on tuned engines, than simply fiddling with needles- and I'm not talking of physical mods to bridges, pistons, etc, which usually achieve very little.
I was attempting to assist with BadFrog's issues with the (excellent) HS8s but am less inclined to do so now TBH.
Cheers
SPMPW
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Refit the HS8s, properly suspended (flex mounts), & PM me for the needle spec.
Cheers
SPMPW
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MGB tensioner's OK on a 4-cylinder mill.
Use on a 6 at your peril.
There most certainly is an alternative.
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Do you happen to know which rolling road it went to?
If it was Peter Baldwin's, (near TRGB) that's why it's a beggar to start cold.
See if you can find out & I may be able to help.
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Remember it well. Mark's elder brother owned the "phantom 5", CP3101, which was also restored at CHSC. I wonder where that is now...
Can I ask: what was the point of the original post? Confused..
Cheers
SPMPW
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Tom, thanks, none taken & none meant.
I've seen no cracking yet; fit the rear plate up with hard plain & Schnorr washers & all should be well.
We already have a couple of Ti front plates in use. No problems at all with them.
Far from cheap but, as expected, very light & strong. I can supply them to special order.
The TR5/6 front plates can be steel inserted, but if you're going to the trouble of building a nice engine, why spoil it with a crappy original style bent tin tensioner?
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At CHSC we initially used David Newman Cams, then went to Kent Cams in probably '89/'90.
Is this post referring to a particular car, or a cam & head on their own?
A registration might jog the memory..
I built the engines at CHSC from '86-'94, Cambridge Motorsport '94-'96, Classic Racecraft '96-present & can remember most of the cam profiles used.
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Would someone like to explain how air reaches the emulsion tubes & main fuel well in Webers?
Anyone who's ever fitted an air filter backplate inverted will know.
There is an obvious path to the outside world.
I see nothing wrong with the poster's idea at all.
One would expect 18mpg from a tuned engine driven briskly.
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Jor Alexander's 6-cyl plates are excellent; I built Josh Files' 2010 Thoroughbred Championship winning TR6 engine with them, & a couple more to boot.
The engine also has an alloy sump & contains no gaskets apart from the obvious one.
It is oiltight & goes fairly well, I think.
As far as I am aware, the 2011 TSCC Championship was won by a "D" Type replica, so the implication in the TRE advert is wrong on two counts.
Beware of alloy TR2-4A front plates; titanium works better in this application.
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You've obviously never tried that old "get oil pressure up with a drill" trick, then!
On a lobe-type (i.e. TR) oil pump, prepare for a cracked/twisted wrist or the like as the pump primes.
Do NOT attempt it.
And don't ask how I know...
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The Goodparts kit's nice, like all Richard's TR parts.
However, I think the main issue here is the rear carb fouling a RHD steering column & this is something to consider on any potential triple SU HD/HS/HIF or Stromberg conversion.
The triple carb Healey 3000 went well enough, though its linkage was interesting, to say the least.
Jaguars, Astons, tuned Fords et al spring to mind.
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If that suspension articulates, then the entire suspension (except steering arms) has changed sides.
If it has somehow been forced together, i.e. lower suspension correctly handed & upper wishbones transposed, then it will barely move.
A mechanic of mine once fitted two lots of LH suspension to a 4A & it very nearly ended up in the ditch within yards of leaving the workshop.
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Josh has just won the European Clio series with an outright race victory, with one race to spare.
This fellow is going places.
(=[;^y
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Shome mishtake shurely?
A Volkswagen Oxymoron spotted in town today
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Unfortunately, a burglary has put paid to this autumn's improvements on Richard's TR; however, we have a volunteer/guinea pig car to use for the manifold build.
We may still go ahead with the daft gearbox- the Quaife six-speed helical sequential will be the one, mated to a custom bellhousing, with a hybrid Ford/TR propshaft. Quaife's straight-cut gears would drown out a low pass by Concorde & are totally unusable without a helmet & earplugs.
Incidentally, the shameless Bastuck copy of Quaife's s/c TR dog gear kit is about half as loud- why? But then s/c Jack Knight MGB gears were barely audible in the 'boxes I've built. Whoops.
Watch this space....
Cheers SPMPW
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What is your annual milage?
If everything is as you say, crank endfloat is in limits & it is oil tight, leave it, be kind to it (right foot & oil changes) & don't worry.
When the time finally comes, you will do a thorough rebuild from top to bottom & marvel at how useless asbestos-free gaskets are.
Never renew small-end bushes without first trying a fresh gudgeon pin, and for now, how about collecting some OEM or equal spec parts, such as gasket sets, bearings, timing chain & tensioner?
My first TR6 had 122,000 on its original happy & healthy engine before I stupidly let it overheat one night & had to rebuild it.
Most TR engines were very well-built; balance was very good, component failures were rare & most issues arose from abuse & skimped maintenance. You plainly have one of the best.
Replace camshaft without removing head
in General TR Technical
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Whoa steady on- exactly what PI kit & distributor you have? CP or CR?
If you expect simply to shove a CP cam into your engine & fit CR ancillaries, then think again.
Much more thought is required here before diving in.
Your CP head at 9.5:1 will be fine with a CR or CP cam.
Incidentally, CR valve sizes remained the same as CP until CR5000.
If Webers are a dream to be realised one day, then fit a decent cam NOW that will exploit both their performance & suit PI for now; a 150bhp standard one will only disappoint in the future.
If you must pull the cam right away, then simply lay the engine on its left side once everthing's undone (DON'T invert it).
Turn the cam to push the followers up their bores, ease them out another 1/2" with a pushrod dipped in oil or grease, then screw 2 of the longest 5/16"UNF bolts you can find (e.g. alternator) into the chainwheel holes in the cam nose to act as a handle and withdraw the cam. You can then remove #1 follower & decide if you have a new or used set.
Act accordingly & use Tom's ingenious gadget if required.
Timing the cam in from here is perfectly straightforward using any of three methods.
First, though, take a good long look at which ancillaries you have & report back!