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Everything posted by Stanpartmanpartwolf

  1. David is entirely correct. I am still at large & displaying some vital signs. The last full damper kit was sold some years ago, but I do have some components still.
  2. Any mention of "new standard exhaust" always prompts one to check this! The first one took a full day to diagnose; the second- 10 minutes...
  3. Alec, Seen where those companies are based? Erm- Rosenblatt Solicitors, CEO N. Foulston (TBFW) Are they by any chance related?
  4. Well, well, well. Quite an illuminating article in the paper there if you read between the lines. Obviously nobody named Foulston would be in any way involved in any impropriety. There is a nasty smell around this.
  5. Have we all forgotten to weld up the grooves worn in the backplates by the levers? Do this, free the cylinders off properly & two shoes will contact the drum instead of one. It is that simple.
  6. My experiences with Pagid ceramics in motorsport are wholly positive. We run them in the Spa Six Hours in a weighty FIA TR4 & expect 15% pad wear in the whole event, with negligible disc wear. A revelation compared with other materials, but £230 a set; do the maths & they're an absolute bargain. Well worth trying.
  7. The stabilised supply can't cope with the current required to power the pump- it is for gauges only. Use the non-stabilised fused green supply instead & it'll work.
  8. Do not pull on the flanges. Always press the axle through the flange and bearing, supported on its inner race. I use a 5/8" UNF plain nut flush with the shaft end to spread load & prevent shaft ejection. Anything withstanding over about 20T is best released with heat instead of more pressure- I was lucky to have the use of an induction heater recently, amazing tool that did the trick in seconds. Leaks can be eased by fitting a special washer between bearing & shoulder that stops the shaft walking outwards & compromising the seal area.
  9. There's no way round this one; you'd think that turning a new ring gear round, so it faces forward, would help. Of course, the chamfer then ends up on the wrong side of the teeth & seems only to make things worse. This is true for both 4 & 6 cylinder engines, sadly.
  10. Read between the lines.....GT but no 6.... By the way, last week I finally got Moss to admit, after some fifteen years of denials, that they HAD altered the spec of the almost universally used TT1207 valve springs. Yes, made them stiffer (& more prone to coil binding). I am fairly sure these have been responsible for spates of cam & follower failures. Stiffness increases with the fourth power of the material diameter & it doen't take a genius to figure that a mere 10% increase leads to a 46% stiffer spring. The same applies to anti-roll bars, but that's a whole other story.
  11. *I thought the carbon build up improves the sealing of the closed butterflies.* Another urban myth. Carelessness in carbon removal was its origin, I'd think. Remove the four butterfly screws, set the manifold in a vice, bell crank side up, apply copious Plus-Gas & heat, then lever the bell crank upwards with a couple of small pry bars. This way, you'll avoid compressing the spindle by tapping it. Do not start twisting until all three journals give.
  12. How many chaps have genuinely, really, tried the reversing electric drill trick? I can tell Andy Moltu has. He probably found out the hard way, as did I. Don't do it, folks; plugs out, two batteries in parallel & spin her up on the starter. Oil pump should be packed with Lubriplate, the best all-round assembly gunge there is.
  13. Rather late to the party here, but one observation: You mention that #2 had been sleeved previously- that says to me there's been a previous accident of a similar nature, only more severe. I'd be looking very closely at the crankshaft oilways & their alignment. If you would like it inspected, I am half-an-hour away. PM if so. Regards SPMPW
  14. 3/8" BSP in 1/2" UNF out The latter's an awkward one as it's in fact -5, & hose fittings and adaptors are hard to find. Goodridge used to list them. I have a few metres of -5 600 series PTFE/SS hose surplus.
  15. J C-C now collaborates semi-successfully with Hugh Cornwell- they played J Holland's last Hootenanny. Am I allowed to mention the finest J C-C title: "Tw@t"?
  16. I'd like to add just a few thoughts on the perennial cam/follower failure issue, if I may? These, although based on thirty-six years experience of TR engines, are of course only my observations. 1. It is extremely rare to find any problems with camshafts. I've encountered some, though: Rear journal oil relief hole absent, leading to expulsion of the rear core plug- very messy indeed! Kent, for around 18 months once, were hobbing the skew gears on their new chillcast blanks at the wrong angle, causing some awful total failures, and ruining plenty of PI & carb oil pump drive gears. Despite much protestation, this took far too long to acknowledge & correct. 4-cylinder shafts ground with lobe peaks taller than the rear journals! Slightly offset front boltholes, annoying, but rectifiable by judicious filing of the chainwheel. I have never encountered any production problems that would cause lobe failure per se & can say with confidence that camshaft wear is virtually certain to be caused by other factors. 2. Followers: 4-cyl first- quality over the last thirty years has been variable & that's being kind. County, unbelievably, were actually selling cheap steel examples in the late 80s-early 90s, to go with the reprofiled OEM cams that were all we had then. These would reduce a performance cam to a stick in twenty minutes! Then came NOS Hillman Avenger- chillcast, phosphated & fine quality, but we had to alter the pushrod tips' radius to suit. AFAIK, the Rootes tooling then went to Iran & production has continued to this day, with the correct TR pushrod radius ground in after. However, further to foregoing remarks, I've encountered serious quality problems with these in the last four years, particularly in the face finish & no longer use them, sadly. Never use TT shortened examples with high-lift cams. Tuftriding IMHO is not the best surface treatment here either. Luckily, with the emergence of decent chillcast cam blanks, it's now possible to run steel followers reliably. Newman's are excellent, but excessively heavy; they are the go-to nonetheless. 6-cyl: OEM were made by Clancy & first-class they were. I was lucky enough twenty years ago to buy a large batch of NOS from them which they kindly then nitrided. Hundreds sold & never a problem. I believe Bastuck bought the remainder & that was that. So, back to County & TT; neither very nice, but acceptable for low load situations. I have always fitted oversize chillcast followers to my racing engines & even at .350" cam, (not valve), lift have not lost a cam even with 1.65 ratio roller rockers. There are now Bastuck phosphated examples available that are well-made & reliable, plus steel ones also from Newman's. I'd not use a steel follower with an OEM hardenable iron camshaft. Most importantly, after buying the best parts you can afford, be absolutely diligent in measuring total valve lift, crush & fitted length of springs, static & over-the-nose pressures & so on. Use Smith Bros tubular pushrods in 6-pots, & OEM or SB in 4-pots. Excessive spring loads (TT 1207 in particular, as an example), spell death to TR cam trains. And you waste a heap of torque compressing springs for no purpose, which in turn generates heat & will lead to spring failures in engines with vestigial top-end oil supply. That brings me to valve stem seals & rocker oil feeds- another topic entirely. All the foregoing info regarding lubrication I'd agree with; but remember how poorly the cam lobes & followers are lubricated. Then consider how to size your crank journals.... That's more than enough waffle for now. Pip Pip SPMPW
  17. Given the leak's location, I'd have a jolly close look at the oil pressure gauge pipe, banjo, & copper washers. Enormous rear-end leaks can be caused by repro camshafts, some of which lack the through drilling in their back journal; this can cause accumulated oil to dislodge or even blow out the core plug.
  18. Facebook is rather handy. (=[;0)
  19. Worth noting also that if you are planning a very high output engine, some of the orifices inside the CAV filter head are rather restrictive; it's a straightforward task to enlarge everything by drilling & retapping where required. We used to enlarge the main metering unit feed too, post-PRV, to dash6 instead of the original dash5. The amount of tweaking required to a TR Lucas PI to make it run really well on a proper race engine is barmy.
  20. You're most welcome, Roy: http://www.touringcartimes.com/2016/11/19/63228/
  21. Macau Qualifying tonight, 23.15h: https://youtu.be/vKyrZ74IMnk
  22. A Facet Red Top can be used, but isn't necessary as long as your roller vane main pump has enough head & the largest possible cross-sectional area at the feed end to avoid vapour lock. Swirl pot: the original CAV filter head allows the fuel to be drawn out from the top, above the filter; on original TR5s & early 6s, surge issues are maddening. Find a length of thin wall metal tube that fits neatly over the end of the O-ringed central spigot inside the filter cap, long enough to extend into the bottom of the cup & you immediately have a neat reservoir of circa 3/4pt capacity to draw from. I daresay the larger CAV filter assemblies seen on some commercials & tractors could be adapted to provide greater capacity still.
  23. Monty- I am pretty sure that's the later version, which works; the troublesome one positions the take-off plate first, then the spin-on adaptor, then the filter - & bypasses the filter. Hard to believe, but true.
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