Stanpartmanpartwolf
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Posts posted by Stanpartmanpartwolf
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Your problem has been caused by the old-skool oil cooler adaptor.
It supplies oil directly from the pump at full pressure (huge, with a good pump) & overloads the radiator, especially if the hoses are unsecured & any vibration contributes.
Later adaptors, fitted between the filter & head, supply pressure-relieved oil BUT, when combined with a spin-on adaptor, neatly bypass the oil filter altogether!
This is the cause of the mysteriously accelerated crankshaft wear evident in a lot of tuned TR 4-pots; cool oil with muck in it.
I've used the Spitfire adaptor for the last 20-odd years & it works perfectly.
If you absolutely must use an old-skool adaptor, an aircraft oil cooler is the only safe option. These things withstand high pressure, do fit, & have an "aircraft" price tag.
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Do not fit a fanboy-style breather filter- it will clog quickly with oil & cause back-pressure and leaks.
Ensure that your "catch tank" has vents to atmosphere of an identical area to your breather hose/pipes, which all too often will be made from heater hose. Use ONLY oil-resistant hose. Anyone recommending a "vented cap" is a charlatan IMO.
Then, for amusement's sake, take a metre of 12mm ID hose and breathe through it yourself.
Now you will understand the importance of free breathing for any engine.
Elimination of even the slightest back pressure is vital.
This is why plenty of 4A engines leak buckets (when the PCVV gives up) & earlier 2/3/4 engines don't, until they're complete toast.
Pip Pip!
SPMPW
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The amount of possible alteration to 2.5L rod length is minute; compression height is already at a minimum & the actual effects of change are minimal, even when going from 6.25" to 7" in a 4-pot TR race engine, for example.
The Maxspeeding rods are copied from a 1990s Carrillo- same bore fouling issues.
Older Arrow 5/16"UNF rods, that don't foul, break instead.
Current 1/4"UNF Carrillo rods fit.
In essence, rod length is effectively inalterable in the 2.5 engine & there is absolutely zero point in tangling underwear over it.
The physics at issue here, & so on and on, are totally irrelevant, just keep everything light, in line & balanced.
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Oil control rings have been incorrectly fitted- the expander rail will probably have jumped over itself.
If you are lucky, it's an easy fix & may not require much other work; though, if you do find the rings are at fault, start to look for other quality issues.
PM for more gen if you like.
Cheers
SPMPW
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It's 150 miles away, in storage; I'll ask for some photos to be sent ASAP.
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Your mechanic is correct & you're a lucky man.
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My first TR6, a '69er bought in October '79, came with the factory hardtop attached. I ran it all through that winter & enjoyed the snugness and generally civilised nature of the car.
February arrived, a fit of enthusiasm followed & on went the soft top. Within 200 yards I was convinced the exhaust had blown & the chassis was about to snap in the middle!
A marvellously rude introduction to topless motoring & huge fun. The hardtop went back on each November and in Autumn '80 I managed to cram four passengers into the poor TR, resulting in a pull from a highly-unimpressed traffic policeman.
The car is long since deceased, but I do still have the white hardtop. It has a black headlining & when I last looked, didn't exhibit the corrosion issues that afflicted works tops used in salty winters. I could be persuaded to let it go.
Cheers
SPMPW
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OK. I witnessed a TR4 with similar pressure problems once, that were traced to the oil PRV- there was a human hair trapped between the ball & its seat (missus).
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There have been some pretty awful repro oil PRV plungers around that appear to have incorrectly angled or thin seats- these cause this very symptom.
As is often the case, an apparently worn OEM item actually performs better than a new pattern part.
Perhaps try an oldie before a fruitless engine strip & then go for oil pump next.
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This is quite a common observation- very often a cam upgrade on its own will cause "backing-up" if a standard exhaust system is retained, causing the glowing. Newman's road cam will not require metering unit enrichment.
The ignition timing's largely irrelevant here; only gross retardation errors cause this type of effect.
Wrap may help, but, once the hot gasses are out of the head, they need to be expelled as quickly as possible & a standard crossbox TR6 exhaust isn't great, especially combined with a so-called extractor manifold.
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I am pleased to say that there is now a batch of UK-produced dog gear kits on sale, available with either 4-speed or A Type O/D mainshaft.
I have already race-tested the O/D configuration & can vouch for it.
The layshaft clusters incorporate doubled-up bearings at last to avoid issues with front bearing overload.
I have one in build at present and am able to supply basic kits, full kits with OEM bearings, or fully-built units at very competitive rates compared with others on the market.
Please do PM me for further details.
Regards,
SPMPW
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"Blocks are interchangeable, so are rods and pistons, its only the crank. So if you can get a good 2.0 block and machine to correct bore size you ought to be able to swap all your 2.5 moving bits into it."
At the risk of seeming pedantic, pistons are certainly not interchangeable, since the rods are identical.
I know someone who once somehow managed to fit a 2L crank up with 2.5L pistons, finish the engine build, & then wonder why it had about 50bhp.
That block probably needs a liner; rebore the rest, fit County pistons & MS rods for pennies, as long as you're not going to exceed 6200rpm.
Keep it simple unless you're into motorsport or like complication for its own sake.
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I'd wager that SFC (shtuff from China) is getting into the system here.
The totally reliable Denso alternators were copied by them, with appalling results.
Denso starters never gave any bother, apart from stuck solenoid plungers after a lay-up, and it seems too coincidental that prices decrease slightly while bother just increases.
Geared starters are of most benefit on Lucas PI TRs, as the system voltage doesn't get dragged down to single figures on cranking.
So the fuel pressure stays up & the injectors may even fire occasionally.
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Injection timing is more important for mild short duration cams & I find CR cars idle poorly & respond roughly to small throttle openings if it's advanced- presumably as the fuel lands on a closed inlet valve.
Adhere strictly to the factory timing method.
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VHT silicone RTV, brick-red coloured, is a big help on compressed graphite manifold gaskets, particularly if there's a tubular manifold.
It can be found in builders' merchants as "flue sealant", in skeleton gun cartridges, for a few bob.
Or buy it as "Extreme Ultra Motorsport Liquid BS" in a 50ml toothpaste tube & have your eyes taken out.
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Steel FO8s ---> dustbin
They corrode twice as fast as a Hartlepool Lancia Beta, avoid studiously.
Copper ones last practically forever.
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The alloy heads tend to be happier with a composite gasket using compressible fire rings; these also allow considerable variation in liner protrusion to be accommodated, rather like the original Coopers ribbed hard steel gaskets did.
AFAIK the tooling for those went in the 90s Moss crash- the recent efforts are next to useless for various reasons.
Johnson Gaskets near Bradford will hand-make you a crushable compo gasket at a sensible price, matched to your chamber & liner shapes.
It is also essential to use a non-setting sealant on it, Wellseal has yet to be bettered IMO.
You will get away with regular size head studs for a road engine, torqued to ca. 85ft/lb with lube; but do not use ARP studs.
Keeping an alloy head on a competition engine is another matter entirely.
Please also remember to set valve clearances at full running temperature; they can increase by as much as 0.010" from cold as the head grows.
Good luck!
& hello Andy M €;0}
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Graze- please post a photo or two of your breather set-up.
Even the lowest back pressure there will cause substantial oil leakage.
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^ +1
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Peter-
Actually, it was worse than that....bobweights don't care which direction the shaft rotates, and so, from the static advance position (you guessed it), the bloody thing was retarding the spark as the revs rose.
There was an awful lot of combustion going on in the exhaust manifold & turbo, leading to those insane temperatures.
Bit like Bronze Age anti-lag, I suppose!
JW
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The mention of the F-4 Phantom jogged my memory; a customer of Chestnut House Sport Cars bought that entire turbo engine, complete with all its ancillaries, sometime around 1990.
He had a rather nice, unbadged, lightened TR6 built there & I installed the whole kit & kaboodle, no small task.
The inlet tract ended up some 6' long, which didn't look too promising, but space was so limited that parts simply had to go in where there was room for them. I recall the turbo being on the generous side of large, probably a KKK IIRC.
Anyway, the car was duly completed & commissioned- it went like stink up to 2000rpm, then basically "brick-walled" & refused to pull properly, though it could be forced to around 4000rpm with all the performance of a sick Herald.
The amount of heat emanating from the engine bay was staggering, which should have been a clue.
Anyway, after Chris Carter & I had torn every hair from our scalps trying in vain to remedy the problems, it was decided to let the local Bosch agent have a prod round the Jetronic to look for clues.....
Some two days later, we received a rather excited phone call from him, asking for a Lucas distributor, and quick.
I grabbed a TR6 unit, which was duly jury-rigged into position.
The transformation in performance was frankly staggering; from a three-legged donkey to a racehorse best describes it.
It would get through first gear before full boost had appeared & then just belt up the road in near-silence, and would accelerate hard from a ton without effort.
Amazingly, the devastating heat issues had all vanished too. What a car, now sadly no more.
It had originally been fitted with a nice Marelli distributor from an Alfa GTV6, & they rotate.......CLOCKWISE!
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No- one of mine. Ground by Kent cams on a new blank. The high lift/short duration suits both PI & Webers, giving excellent tractability.CR 5 cam from Newman ?
I'd bet that Bastuck's are copied from the Kent x-flows. They're not exactly noted for originating components!
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Most of Kent's regular offerings are Ford crossflow profiles, designed for a dished piston & vestigial chamber configuration.
BMC & Cosworth profiles are more appropriate for a non-crossflow chambered cylinder head in general.
You will find that Moss', Kent's, Revvy's, & several others' performance cams are all the same X-flow stuff that's been around for decades & doesn't necessarily suit our engines.
David Newman supplied my first upgraded cam in 1980, & very good it was too. Their range hasn't altered significantly since.
For best all-round performance, use a TT1740 manifold & a CR5 cam. Around 200bhp with total tractability.
Financial interest declared (;0}
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Well I'm stunned, Chris, especially as you guys manufacture Pagid!
Surely you've used their pads?
Just as an example: Spa Six Hours- 15% pad wear on the FIA TR4, RS29 ceramics.
So many people complain about the price, then ignore their remarkable longevity & disc-friendly nature.
I can say that R**Stuff were the worst brake pads I've encountered in 32 years of racing TRs.
Each unto their own! €;0)
4 pot oil pump
in General TR Technical
Posted
These are the best & go in my TR race engines.
Avoid so-called "uprated high-capacity" alloy pumps unless you wish to wear out your camshaft & enjoy minimal idle oil pressure.
http://www.tonydrews.com/OilPump0001.pdf