ijonsson
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Posts posted by ijonsson
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11 hours ago, EliTR6 said:
Hi all
I've been busy with Will, work and the new bike so the TR has been patiently sitting on axle stands waiting for a gearbox transplant.
Good news : the supplier has found the fault (od internal plates not lining up and a cracked solenoid bracket) and the box should arrive back in France imminently.
I've been meaning to tidy up and few small areas on the car. The spare wheel panel is one of them.
I still haven't been able to find a replacement plug for my rear diff with its Lockheed cover.
It appears to be out of stock everywhere. Part number 62058.
Revington say its a 7/8" straight thread, so that would make it bspp? And is G7/8 the same thing?
I have spent hours poring over the Internet and still haven't been able to find a suitable plug.
Any ideas? Thanks!
As far as I know, G-thread is a straight thread
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6 hours ago, David Owen said:
I am wondering if this leak is easy to fix? There is also fluid around a bolt on the top in front of the gear shift.
Probably the 3 O-ring seals around the gear selector shafts. Be careful not to loose the spring assisted ball bearing balls that hold position of the shafts. Fitting them back can be very tricky. https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/ under tab Tech articles, Gearbox, Cover overhaul you can find a very good "how to"
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At the time I didn't realize the repro bumper irons might be wrong, so I did a couple of notches to make them pass through the edge of the apron. I got them from TR Shop, and in the aftermath I should have cut and welded the bumper irons instead.
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11 hours ago, David Owen said:
Pretty sure it's a voltage stabilizer. Anyway, I it time for a drive so I can then have a drink.
Look at the wiring diagram on the casing, to me it looks like a standard on-off relay
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23 hours ago, ianc said:
Is that a brake bundy tube visible near the trunnion's grease nipple? Long time since I had a drum braked TR2 (was 1963), but it looks vulnerable to me.
Ian Cornish
It is, and I think it looks worse than it actually is
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12 minutes ago, Lebro said:
But it's brass !
I would go with the hammer & chisel / punch idea.
or file / grind larger flats on it so an adjustable spanner cannot slip
Bob.
Oops, didn't see that
, but Eli said earlier that it is of steel.
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On 4/3/2016 at 12:36 AM, Mike Graham said:
I have thought of replacing one of the bolts holding the heavy steel plate that protects the rad with an eye bolt. One on each side, but have not got around to it. Anyone done that? My idea was to provide an easy spot for a tie down on my trailer if needed. Cheers, Mike
This is my solution,
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I don't know if you got a welder, but I would weld a big nut on top of the old one. The heat in it self might help to loosen the plug.
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1 hour ago, james christie said:
Revington offer a good sturdy stainless steel one, not the cheapest, which needs a bit of patience until it soots up and makes the right noise - for me. I’ve had mine for at least 15 years and am satisfied. I should add that it is fitted to an ‘extractor’ manifold.
james
"soots up" explains why my TR2 sounds softer now after a couple of years driving with a stainless system (TR Shop) than it sounded with brand new system, or maybe it's my hearing that is worse now
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2 hours ago, Brian Eldred said:
John, Ian,
I did both yesterday afternoon (I too used an old screwdriver with the handle cut off), remembering to spin anti-clockwise, and then got 50 psi on cranking.
The engine fired up on first push of the button, ran a bit rough for a few seconds, on 3 cyls I think, then refused to start again. Carb pistons were sticking, and I think I flooded it. I read on here about how wet plugs can die, so am getting some new ones later today.
Thanks for all the advice from you knowledgeable people!
Brian
You can make wet plugs as new heating them red hot with a blowtorch/gas burner
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On 7/29/2020 at 2:21 AM, John McCormack said:
I've got a iphone video of my car at speed on a left hand sweeping bend but I can't figure out how to post it as it is a 30 meg file. If somebody can point me in the right direction it shows how good a steering box can be.
Upload the video to Facebook or YouTube and then post the link here
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22 minutes ago, Lebro said:
Perhaps the gauge is setup for a lower resistance sender.
Bob.
OK, didn't test that. I have a couple of senders with lower resistance. But in my head lower resistance would deliver more power to the gauge and then the gauge would read even higher.
But I don't know how the gauge works so I'm probably wrong here
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Went out to the garage, checked voltage (9,5V) from stabilizer and thought I'll test RobH tip about adjusting the gauge, so took it out and nudged the cold side to the "colder" side of the pointer just to test. Ran the engine until warm, and out of luck, now it's marginally above what I can measure with the IR thermometer! Happy days
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I tested all of the senders simultaneously in a bowl of water, gradually increasing the temperature (checked with a digital thermometer) measuring the resistance with a multimeter at 25, 40, 60 and 80 deg C.
Fuel gauge is OK, and I've measured the voltage output from the stabilizer with a multimeter.
It didn't happen suddenly, it's been like that since the complete rebuild, nuts and bolts, of the car finished in 2018. New loom, new gauge, new sender (twice) as I suspected the sender as the culprit.
Earth is checked and good, the bolts holding the housing ensures that.
Thanks for all good suggestions
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How can I make the temperature gauge show correct reading? I have a new "classic" electric Smiths gauge in my TR2, I've tried several senders and it always shows 20 degrees C to high reading, I have a voltage stabilizer that gives a little less than 10 V. I connected another 12V temperature gauge to the sender and checked with an infrared thermometer and both show same value, 20 deg C below the Smiths gauge reading. I put 4 senders in a pan with hot water and made readings at 4 different temperatures and I am using the one marked 8730 with the highest resistance. Would a resistance in series with the sender help, and has anyone got an idea of the size of such a resistance? Can the gauge be calibrated?
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This winter I installed a brake servo in my TR2 with Lockheed hydraulics. It made the pedal travel much longer before acting, but when the brakes engage it's much more efficient than without servo. Anyone got experience of this? Is it normal that pedal travel is much longer with the servo?
I have the same servo in my Midget MK3, and in that car it doesn't need the extra pedal travel before acting, the Midget has disc brakes at the front, can that make the difference or could it simply be a difference in MC piston diameter?
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You maybe already done this, but before worrying about speedo not reading correct, why not check the reading of your speedometer with an GPS speedo?
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I guess your question actually is if you should turn the convex side of the spring washer towards the coil spring or not. To my knowledge it shouldn't matter.
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1 hour ago, Mike Graham said:
I know you said you do not want to fit a switch at the MC, but I got frustrated with being unsure of brake light performance, and installed a switch at the pedal. It is essentially “invisible” and now one less thing to worry about. Cheers, Mike
So did I
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Not an answer to your question, but a problem with the wiper motor not running, in my experience, is that the tiny plastic insulators that holds the spring that holds the carbon brushes together against the collector get old and brittle and breaks.
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3 hours ago, bigmalcy said:
Hi Drew
Your post prompted me to try importing my pdf wiring diagram into AutoCad, and what do you know... it worked!
I also have a Word copy, but it is password locked and so I couldn't edit it... but now I can use AutoCad to make edits and updates to reflect the wiring changes I've made.
Thanks for prompting me to do this. The dwg file attached is based on a 3A with -ve earth. The 2019 version of AutoCad was used to save it... if you need an earlier version then let me know.
Great and thanks, it opened in my free edition of DraftSight as well, now quarantine won't be a problem. I'll spend a lot of time to adapt this diagram to my TR2 (much modified) diagram, at the moment a .jpg-file.
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This fault was new to me, the engine wasn't running well, so I tried tuning carbs and ignition and checked the plugs. I didn't get any result and it seemed that it ran even worse after checking the plugs. This continued until I finally discovered that the brass insert in the cap, of one of the caps, was stuck on the plug. Checking the other caps showed that 3 out of 4 brass connectors were loose. Substituted them for considerably more expensive caps and the engine is now running as it should. So, advice to myself, stop buying cheap stuff!
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I did something similar, but did add relays for lights and horns not to draw a lot of current over the switch and push button.
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43 minutes ago, Lebro said:
Hi This is what I normally buy & supply along with my rear LED bulbs:
This is white (& amber), your choice was warm white - either will be fine, I prefer white myself !
You will need an LED compatible Flasher relay if you don't have one already.
I recommend this one:
Cheers Bob.
Will those LED bulbs fit under the TR2 flat lenses?
Snorkel Breather Identification
in General TR Technical
Posted
I think the more straight one looks like the one on my TR2 longdoor.