Jump to content

ijonsson

Registered User
  • Content Count

    356
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ijonsson

  1. This is how I solved it, overlapping "flaps" and Velcro strips, also a "neck with Velcro strips around the legs of the roll over bar. Local shoemaker helped making the modification. Not 100 % watertight, but close to.
  2. And my LHD version http://ijonsson.se/tr2/photo_diary.php?day=interior&folder=interior&id=IMG_3434
  3. I'm using this fan, http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/product/Turbo-3000 it is a bit noisy but delivers a lot of air, quite impressed. I'm using it hot days in slow traffic via a manual switch. It can be found on Ebay and Amazon for about GBP 25-30 and it looks, and seems to have same data as the one sold at Merlin motorsport
  4. It is superthin stainless sleeve you press over the axle end and the worn area. SKF is the most known manufacturer but other make them as well. You need the exact outer diameter of the axle to get the right sleeve
  5. "I have seen this done using stainless beadings that have been 'scotchbrited' then painted body colour " Thats what I did, and it works (at least has done so for 3 years)
  6. Yes, I have A-type OD in a TR2, the support from gearbox is (I guess) TR4 model. Picture seen from above
  7. I got mine from TRshop, fitted well, just a bit close to the frame at the big bend.
  8. Check if you still has power to the coil after ignition turned off, than trace backwards. Problem probably at the ignition key, a friend of mine had a similar problem due to that the whole ignition key lock had rotated and then shorted a couple of wires behind the lock. Another problem with not cutting out was given to me after I had wired in a main relay, the relay got enough power to hold via ignition warning lamp (cured with a diode)
  9. Thank you, I'll look into it. (Edit) Maybe the original servo was smaller, but the ones I can find (single line) look very much the same sizes, wherever I find them.
  10. FYI, I got this and some other pictures from a member in the Swedish TR club.
  11. Anyone got pictures of a booster servo installation on a TR2 with Lockheed MC and LHD? Might need some help before I hit someones car in the rear ;)
  12. Maybe you are thinking of Ystad at the very south, city known from Wallander crime stories? Else, middle and eastern parts of region Skåne has a very beautiful landscape.
  13. From Malmoe it's 116 km upp north along the coast to Mellbystrand, add about 15-20 km across the bridge from Copenhagen to Malmoe. Passing Ängelholm you might drop in at Konigsegg and opt for one of their cars.
  14. https://www.blocket.se/helsingborg/Triumph_TR2_1954_86112360.htm?ca=11&w=3&last=1 https://www.blocket.se/halland/Triumph_TR_TR2_2_0_90hk_86163862.htm?ca=11&w=3 The white one (TS928) was restored and put in traffic 1990, 23k SEK is a starting bid, the other ad (probably TS 3594 according to VTR survivor list, reg no EOY676) has everything explained in English. Both cars in south-west of Sweden
  15. I bought them from Rimmers late 2016, drove the car first time spring 2018, first one started leaking last autumn and the second one now. And this is what the seal looks and what it looks inside. Pitting in the cylinder wall and scored rubber seal.
  16. ....story continued, today I discovered a massive leak in the other side rear brake cylinder (lasted two years from new) thanks to Peter W I had a NOS cylinder ready to go in, so car is ready for road again. The quality of those repro cylinders is really poor! State of paint of inside rim is awful. http://www.ijonsson.se/tr2/photos/updates/IMG_20190714_155508.jpg http://www.ijonsson.se/tr2/photos/updates/IMG_20190714_155523.jpg
  17. I would go for the liquid sealant, so much better than tape, and it has a bit of thread locking effect as well.
  18. Fuel pipe from pump/filter goes in front of engine and hasn't any lagging, fuel pipe between carbs is the old rigid type above. Engine is a lowport but an TR3 block. Our fuel, all types can hold up to 5% Ethanol. Regarding electric pump was just a thought to keep flow high regardless of engine revs. I have a new, but old type of radiator, with hole for starting crank. I have extra spotlights but they are placed to the sides. The water pump is, if I recall right from Moss, and the 5-vane type. The electric fan keeps temperature down at low speed, but not as low as running at 60 mph without electric fan working. I have a modern type of thermostat and reduced area in the by-pass.
  19. Well, summer temperatures in Sweden at last, and with that some, probably, fuel issues in the TR2, plugs look nice and fuel consumption is approximately 28 mpg. Nothing serious, but running slow at narrow roads is causing a bit of misfire after a while. I have put in a duct from behind the grill up to the carbs but no duct fan. What I want to ask is if anyone has tried put in a heat shield below the carbs, it will not make much difference to hot air below the bonnet, but would take away some radiation heat. Another heat related issue I've been considering is what good an electric water pump would do? I already have an electric pushing fan installed.
  20. What do you know, I also have one of those brackets in my "left over box".
  21. Am I missing something? why don't use the pegs for the tonneau/hood for the hood stick cover as well? /Inge
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.