[It's a Funny thing]

Hi Peter

Front door painted and did the front of the whole house at the same time, only the lintels to do today. Totally in wifeys good books. Only joking about the 6 months 

The reference I made was really to the fact that as soon as I do one job on the house there always seems to be another she's held back that needs doing, still we've been married 33 years and together 38 so must be keeping to good lady reasonably happy. She a wonderful lady 

Btw Triumph red for the front door my be a bit too far

Back to the garage

Steve

 

[maybe it is the inertia switch...]

Hi Cas

Just a thought,  would it be worth taking a spar spark plug with you so that next time it happens you can remove the HT lead from cylinder no1 and turn the engine over to see you still have a spark, (insulated grips to hold the plug on the engine otherwise you may get a but of a shock ) that won't necessarily rule out the ignition as the spark when running in the cylinder could be performing differently, but it may help (I understand it's intermittent)

Also with Marco's explanation I fear he may not have pointed out his drawing/picture is for a four cylinder and not a 6 cyLinder as the points on his paperwork are at 90 degrees to each other representing the pickups of the distributor cap. When you look at it in this way and see it's for a 4 cylinder the explanation makes sense.

Steve

[It's a Funny thing]

Padi

These are the three posts worth reading

  

 

all of these make a good read

Happy easter

 

[It's a Funny thing]

Hi All

As a side note and being a bank holiday weekend (like we need more time off !) I have been on the forum more times than not lately and have been able to fix a number of issues I've not had time to deal with until recently.

So here's my point, am I the only one here that the more threads I read the more I find I want to do to the 6, despite owning her for 24 ish years. I must admit that I'm an engineer through and through so tinkering / improving (possibly) I enjoy just as much as cleaning and driving the 6 but the more I read the more I find I want to do!

I've just read about antifreeze and flushing and surprise surprise I've now ordered just ordered new Blue antifreeze + flushing fliud so i can tackle that maintenance job which up until today and prior to reading the very informative threads have not felt the need to do. But NOW see that I haven't been keeping up to standards as it's not been changed for at least 4 years, tut tut....

So here's the quandry,

1. Do I stop reading threads to save my pocket and do the other jobs around the house my good wife wants me to do? Quote " I will paint the front door my love but you don't need to remind me every 6 months "

2. Carry on reading knowing I'm going to keep my well loved 6 on the road and ready for the off when eventually we are allowed out to play.

Amusing answers well received and anyone willing to back me up on point 2 will give me more ammo when the wife reminds me in August... again !

Happy Easter

Steve

[Hard to find hard top parts wanted]

Hi Phil

There are two of these currently on flea-bay.

TRIUMPH TR6  HARDTOP CHROME R/H FINISHER REAR CORNER PART NO 716608

This is how it's listed

Hope that helps

Steve

[Indicator dash board green light]

Hi John 

I started a thread on on changing LEDs which lead onto the same turn indicator issue which I managed to solve so may be with a read.

Hope it helps

Steve

 

 

[Indicator dash board green light]

Hi John 

I started a thread on on changing LEDs which lead onto the same turn indicator issue which I managed to solve so may be with a read.

Hope it helps

Steve

 

[Leaving door caps off]

Hi Dave

Yes when I received the leather interior from John Skinner that I replace about 10 years ago he was kind enough to put some off cuts in with the interior. I had already decided to remove the door caps as they were frankly inadequate to shout the door well and we often had to lower the window to shut the door correctly. I cannot recommend John Skinner enough though I have not needed to use his services for years now.

I used a impact adhesive and spent a considerable amount of time to form the leather on the door top. I'm really pleased with the result and my wife totally prefers the door handles. As I like to go out with her in company I can forsake the non originality.

I did not use any foam as the leather is good quality and has a little softness to it. If you chose to do the caps in a vinyl you may want to use a bit of foam to improve the feel.

I must say that I have not had any problems with my handles not dropping and there were square cut outs in my doors which accepted  the plastic inserts to retain the screws.

Hope that is helpful but if you need any more pics etc let me know.

Steve 

[Best Woodrim Steering Wheel]

I agree with Pete W's quote though didnt have the comedy prowess he has to reply.

Well done Peter, did make me chuckle a lot.

[Instrument bulbs]

Hi Keith

I recently changed all mine including the oil pressure, ignition, high beam  indicators and instrument illumination.  I used a combination of wattage lamps to achieve enough light to not be too bright and didn't worry about the rheostat as I previously never really dimmed them when they were the standard incandescent.

Take a look at my previous thread as I did find that when you change the flasher unit to enable the indicators to work correctly you will also need to make sure you use the 'p' terminal from the flasher unit otherwise the dash turn indicator only works for the RHS as the leds have polarity. All will be clear if you read the thread.

Other very helpful chaps from this forum inserted links for parts I needed.

Anyway suffice to say I think the led lamps all round are a great improvement and my indicators have never worked this good in the 23 YEARS I've had my 6

Regards

Steve

[Leaving door caps off]

Hi Andy

My doors had the holes already in the steel for the plastic inserts that I ordered online, I think from the TR5 listing.

When I replaced the cards I just put these inserts in and fixed the handles through the door card onto the plastic inserts. This solution (although not liked by the purist) is brilliant especially for my wife as she kept breaked her fingernails on the original door caps, hmmmm.

Regards

Steve

[Leaving door caps off]

Hi Mark

Yes I took mine off and fitted the TR5 handles as my good 

lady found the originals a faff. As I was upgrading the interior to leather I used some off-cuts to finish the top door which I think finish it nice.

Matter of choice really but my good lady prefers this setup.

Steve

[LED turn flasher lamps]

Hi All

Hope your staying safe and well.

So I've changed almost all lamps to LED apart from the H4 as I'm still trying to find a suitable small but powerful lamp.

Thanks for the link to the flasher unit it's now fixed and working great.

Small note to all that you WILL need to use the 'p' connection to the Speedo indicator if you are changing the dash for LED as the circuitry on a 6 assumes that the lamp indicator is not requiring polarity which an LED lamp does. This mean it will only work for one side indicator I.e. RHS . Took me a couple of minutes  to figure this out (being a sparky by trade) but this could cause some to come a cropper if you assume an LED upgrade to the indicator just means changing the lamp.

Another note is that not all LED give the same effect as incandescent lamps, some do not light all the lens as I found with the first B9es lamps.

LHS door now completed and the rattles are all gone, now for the RHS

Thanks for all the advice given your all a blessing

Steve

[LED turn flasher lamps]

Thank you Bob . Just ordered the flasher now.

Looking forward to good flashing lol

Steve

[LED turn flasher lamps]

Hi All

I've just started changing my rear light cluster to LED bulbs (lamps, as I'm an electrician and bulbs go in the ground). And the tail/stop is ok, reverse is ok but when I put the turn/flasher lamp in the lamp holder and fit the flasher unit stops flashing and the lamp just stays on. Now from my point of view it may well be that the load is less and therefore the flasher relay cannot charge the capacitor enough to switch the coil but has anyone had this issue or should I just try another LED lamp.

Has anyone a recommendation for an LED that still looks like a lamp and not a unit with lots of flat LED flat cob dots

Thanks for any replies gents

Doors nearly finished BTW

Steve

[Door tie bar]

Hi Steve

Yes I will use heat shrink. Fortunately my day job is an electrician and we often use heat shrink though I will use the glued version as I think it will be more stable and absorb noise better. I will try to add pics when complete.

Strange how taking one part of the 6 apart leads to other jobs as I've been looking at the lights too and currently cleaning and upgrading to LED at the same time as doing the tie bars. That's what winter is for though isn't it ?

Steve

Thanks everyone that has contributed to this post.

[Door tie bar]

Thanks for this information jpmf, perfect. I will get on to making the new tie bars with the mods that Ed suggested.

Hopefully the rattles will be non existent 

Steve

[Door tie bar]

That is brilliant Ed and thank you for such a prompt reply.

Thank you too John. I've read the tr5 thread as you posted but whilst it states a diameter for the rod of between 2.6 and 3mm it doesn't give me the length.

Can I ask how long your rods are Ed as I'm happy to make new ones but it will be so much easier if I have the size as opposed to trying to put a tape in the door etc.

Also the hooks at each end, I assume they fit snug around each channel ?

Regards

Steve

[Door tie bar]

Hi All

Its not often I'm here but I regularly view threads as they are a brilliant source for trouble shooting and I thank the register for that.

Anyway I've  owned my 6 FOR 23 YEARS NOW and this week whilst doing the normal winter titivating I decided to tackle my rattling doors. Needless to say I've changed the remote lock bar felt, channel felts, added sound dampening, replaced a spring for the remoted latch etc etc

Whilst having the door in pieces I noticed that the door tie bar which attaches  from channel to channel is missing and I suspect this is adding to the noise.

The reason for the post is that I've tried to buy replacements on line but these are no longer available from the usual suppliers.

So, here is my question, has anyone attempted to manufacture new ones themselves and if so do you know the materials used, dimensions and angle of bends for the hooks at each end

Any help would be appreciated

Regards

Steve