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stevenphillips

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Everything posted by stevenphillips

  1. Ok in an attempt to hopefully get an answer I have attached some photos to help. My issue is that the adaptors I have I cannot find anywhere. Mine are the same as the threaded type but without a thread. Anyone know why and where I can get a replacement. Also I have 4 injectors that are prefixed with E and 2 injectors prefixed with D. Does anyone know the difference and if it's better to keep them all the same or is mixing not an issue. Final question what is the reason for the nipple on the end of the poppet cone that makes the spray and is there any difference in spray pattern
  2. I've just had a battery from Tayna a week ago, they did exactly as on the tin. Really recomend them.
  3. Ok thank you all for the replies, really interesting. Couple of points to my earlier posts that may have been missed I think. I know there are two types of injector adaptors (1 push type with two groves and one screw type with one grove for the o ring) but mine don't look like either I have 5 adaptors that look like the screw in type (1 grove for o ring) but they do not have a thread and accept my push in type injectors and 1 adaptor that IS a push in type with two grooves. I would like to make them all the same as the 5 I have but cannot find this type on line, any ideas?? Mos
  4. Thank you Bruce I will see if I can make an adaptor and give that a go. In looking at the injectors tonight I found that my adaptors are the same as the screw in injector type but without any thread cut into the plastic ( my injectors are push type) has anyone got the same as these. I've looked online for a replacement as no6 adaptor is different and is a two slot push on type and I believe they should all be the same but I can't find adaptors the same as mine for now's 1-5 without a thread, any ideas ? Also no 4 adaptor is no coming out is there a tool that will enable this one to
  5. Evening all Did a search on this but nothing i can find, anyway, took the 6 out yesterday ran like a dream. Took it out again today and for some unknown reason it was running like a tractor. Anyway checked ignition etc and finally found this evening that injectors 1 & 2 are just kind of almost dribbling where as 3 4 5 6 have a nice fine cone. It's almost like 1 & 2 have no fuel being sent to them. Anyone seen this or can point me to the correct thread so that I can look in the right place as opposed to looking everywhere and possibly finding other work to do lol Thanks
  6. Tim You can change the flasher unit ( see my previous post as I had the same issue) it's an easy job. Steve
  7. Hi Roger Thanks for the reply , I assume that's the correct length then Steve
  8. Hi All Tried a search on this but after 14 pages gave up. I have a RHD CP 6 and I need to replace the Tacho cable but there are a number of sizes I see. My inner cable length is roughly 42 inches (old school) and the are cables availanle are from 39 to 48 inches. Can anyone tell me the correct length for my TR6, do I have the wrong one in the first place ? Thanks to all who reply
  9. Ok thank you Michael I will give them a call Steve
  10. Hi Y'all Hope you are fine and dandy. Does anyone know if there is an engineering specification for the 6's hardtop front and rear fixings. I have been lucky enough to get hold of a solid original hardtop (which im in the process of getting sprayed) and whilst I do have the side fixings I'm missing the front and rear plus the rubber corner feet ( for want of a better word) I wouldn't mind having a go at manufacturing them myself but can't find a specification. I could buy them but have you seen the price !!! For a couple of bolts and spacers etc geezzzzzeeeee Any help
  11. Hi Pete This is cured if you use a LED relay as directed above and then link the p connection of the relay to the dash indicator lamp(LED). I used the one that Bob gave me the link to. Mine work just fine with no dimming etc https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/indicator-relays-electronic/products/12v-electronic-indicator-flasher-relay-classic-car-with-oe-click-x-l-p-2-3-pin Hope this helps and I suspect will be much easier than trying to put diodes across the switch etc. Steve
  12. Hi Harvey Long shot but are you sure that the ignition switch is located in the key switch correctly, Mine occasionally comes out and I have to pop it back in Steve
  13. Hi Aarhus This looks exactly the same as the units I have on my 72 TR6 but the link on shows one view Happy hunting Steve
  14. Thanks for all the replies chaps I will take a closer look at the spindles and if they look suspect I may change. I will see what the balance is like at 1500 John, may point me in the right direction. I will also start with a fag paper gap and start from scratch just in case as I've also noticed that the bleed valve is only just cracked open for 900 rpm which makes me think the butterflies are adjusted too far open. Steve
  15. Hi Stuart Possibly, but over all three sets ? I'm wondering if this is just the norm ? Steve
  16. Hi All Managed to change the coolant and antifreeze today so another job completed. Whilst I was there I decided to check points timing and throttle balance primarily because I recently purchased a balancing gauge. All seemed to be good but I've noticed that cylinder 1,3,5 where all reading 2.4 on the gauge and cylinders 2,4,6 reading ~2.0 This didn't make sense to me as I would expect each pair to be the same therefore allowing me to get all throttles the same. Dispite fiddling for some time I cant get them all exactly the same and the throttles can only be adjusted as a
  17. Hi Peter Front door painted and did the front of the whole house at the same time, only the lintels to do today. Totally in wifeys good books. Only joking about the 6 months The reference I made was really to the fact that as soon as I do one job on the house there always seems to be another she's held back that needs doing, still we've been married 33 years and together 38 so must be keeping to good lady reasonably happy. She a wonderful lady Btw Triumph red for the front door my be a bit too far Back to the garage Steve
  18. Hi Cas Just a thought, would it be worth taking a spar spark plug with you so that next time it happens you can remove the HT lead from cylinder no1 and turn the engine over to see you still have a spark, (insulated grips to hold the plug on the engine otherwise you may get a but of a shock ) that won't necessarily rule out the ignition as the spark when running in the cylinder could be performing differently, but it may help (I understand it's intermittent) Also with Marco's explanation I fear he may not have pointed out his drawing/picture is for a four cylinder and not a 6 cyLind
  19. Padi These are the three posts worth reading all of these make a good read Happy easter
  20. Hi All As a side note and being a bank holiday weekend (like we need more time off !) I have been on the forum more times than not lately and have been able to fix a number of issues I've not had time to deal with until recently. So here's my point, am I the only one here that the more threads I read the more I find I want to do to the 6, despite owning her for 24 ish years. I must admit that I'm an engineer through and through so tinkering / improving (possibly) I enjoy just as much as cleaning and driving the 6 but the more I read the more I find I want to do! I've just read a
  21. Hi Phil There are two of these currently on flea-bay. TRIUMPH TR6 HARDTOP CHROME R/H FINISHER REAR CORNER PART NO 716608 This is how it's listed Hope that helps Steve
  22. Hi John I started a thread on on changing LEDs which lead onto the same turn indicator issue which I managed to solve so may be with a read. Hope it helps Steve
  23. Hi John I started a thread on on changing LEDs which lead onto the same turn indicator issue which I managed to solve so may be with a read. Hope it helps Steve
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