fox889
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Posts posted by fox889
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Hi Nick,
when you say 'cracked', what has actually cracked.
Quite often one or more of the vertical pins break away from the bridge at its weld.
The sheet metal of the bridge can also crack.
I've had the diff front mounting plate crack on my 4A .
Roger
It looks like a crack right where the pin goes through the bridge itself.
A little difficult to actually see what's what with the diff in the way.
After I initially put this thread on here, I found that Rimmer Bros & Moss do a 'kit' but think I quite fancy the idea of 'bridging' the mount myself rather than just weld in a kit.
Nick.
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Yet another question for you '6' guru's!
Had a 'click' underneath that resembled a universal joint being worn, so up on the ramp she went........& no it wasn't a u/j!
Seems to be the normal problem of the n/s/f diff mount has cracked therefore making the diff jump around a bit.
I've looked into the various threads & it seems this is a) fairly common &
most seem to 'box in' the tunnel piece after welding the crack first.
Unless of course someone out there has manufactured a 'repair plate'?
I think 4 new mounting rubbers would be a good idea while the diff is out, anything else I should look at replacing guys?
Thanks in anticipation.
Nick.
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Weather held off so down the garage we went with intrepidation, but a wry smile has come on my face, as the following compression (dry) test results are (psi):
- 100
- 110
- 110
- 105
- 105
- 130
These were done dry & at nearly full running temperature.
I'm quite pleased & somewhat releived at the above, which I think shows that she's in not too bad a shape for 75k & as far as I know, an untouched engine!
I'm just about to post yet another thread on here, so grab a coffee & I'll see you in a mo!
Thanks again
Nick.
- 100
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God I love this site, leave a question & there's replies flying everywhere, thanks very much, appreciated!
All being well & weather permitting, I'm taking the 6 out to my mates garage where he has a lift to have a gander 'underneath' just to see what I've bought & time willing, we'll try & do a compression test!
I'll come back over the weekend with the figures for your perusal!
Thanks again.
Nick.
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Just looking through the various paperwork received with my newly acquired '6' & have noted that in 2000 she went in for a service & either the previous owner or the garage asked for a compression test, these are the following results:
- 65
- 70
- 80
- 65
- 65
- 100
followed by "compressions very low" from the garage written on the receipt.
This was some 11 years ago & some 7000 miles ago & as far as I can see there's been no engine work carried out to rectify the low compressions. When I bought the car, she runs very rough on low revs/tickover (looking at checking the butterflies etc) & did mention to the previous owner that this could be a valve problem, he didn't come back & say the "head's been off & done" so one has to assume the low compressions are still here!
She starts well, runs at 60mph as smooth as anything & there's no smoke from the exhaust, a little 'puff' from the rocker cover but that's it.
Over to you 'guru's of the 6'.
Look forward to your views.
- 65
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Looks like a nice car....but............it wont suit everyone!
For me, there's another car out there for less money & more original!
That's my opinion & my opinion only!
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Thanks very much for all your input.
It maybe that I've got the butterflies set roughly right but the linkage(s) need adjusting, I couldn't find anything in the manual to see how to adjust the linkage(s).
She's much smoother than she was just won't tickover less than 1500 rpm.
Think I need to have another look!
Nick.
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Air screw is in all the way, so looks like I've not set the butterflies up that well.
The Triumph manual was fairly explicit on how to set these butterflies up, in reality I thought it was quite tricky.
Maybe next step is a specialist!
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New member on the TR Register who's only just acquired a '73 TR6 with known faults (is there a 6 without faults?).
OK, second question on the 6 forum if you don't mind.
Bought this 6 with known faults, and there are a few, trust me!
When I bought her, she was idling like the preverbial sack of sh**e even though she had recently undergone an expensive service at a TR specialist.
On the road coming home (100 miles) she ran at 60mph in overdrive like a sowing machine, smooth and quiet, yet on tickover & low speeds like 2nd gear round a roundabout, lurching all over the shop!
Triumph repair manual suggested throttle butterflies mis-aligned, so 2 hours later and a bit of fiddling, she runs much much better (not 100%) but now I can't get her to tickover less than 1500 rpm!
The manual says adjust the air screw & get the revs down to 800 rpm, screwing in the large air screw increases the revs so the book says, but, if I screw this in the revs decrease and if I unscrew it the revs increase!
Is there anyway of getting the revs down please, or do you think I've 'cocked up' somewhere?
Really appreciate your help if you can.
Nick.
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Now funny you should say that Tony, the temp guage only sits just over the cold mark. I've shorted this out & it goes all the way over.
I'll check the speedo, is it easy to remove this regulator Tony?
Appreciate your help.
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Hi guys, experience needed please:
Full tank of fuel, guage reads quarter, so one assumes sender unit needs replacing, yes?
Can this be done without removing the whole tank?
I haven't looked underneath the boot cards to see how much room there actually is.
Thoughts please?
Compression readings
in TR6 Forum
Posted
No, genuine UK car!