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fox889

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Everything posted by fox889

  1. Cotswold: for the sake of £35'ish, I would buy one of those carb balancers off eBay, they're worth their weight in gold. What I found was that if I balanced them on tickover she was still a little lumpy on take off, but, get the revs around 2000 rpm use the carb balancer & set those babies up & im sure you'll find a huge difference. Don't give up, I had a dog of a runner but like you, replaced virtually everything & she's now as good as she's going to be!
  2. Slight cock-up on the lubrication front today. Thought I had a can of Millers Classic 20/50 in the garage, only to find it was empty (why do we keep empty cans?) so rushed down to Halfords, looks reminiscent of the old Duckhams Q........green! Has anyone any views or thoughts on this oil? No idea who actually manufacturers Halfords oil, do you? Thanks Nick.
  3. fox889

    Checking endfloat

    My only excuse is "I told you so!' and that relates to my lack of any degree of mathematics, basic sums are notable by their absense as well! So, there's me telling everyone & their dog I 'need +38 thou' in thrust washers to gain the end-float I require. New thrust washers arrived this morning, +30's.......+15's...........+5's. The +30's looked like the side of 9/16th open ended spanner!!! WTF? In the end, I used a standard & a +5 oversize......all sorted! Where the **** did +38 come from. By the way, I have an un-used pair of +30's & +25's if anyone has a wide end-float? Thanks to all who's input is & was greatly received!
  4. Poolboy: Andy a little further back came up with this formula, Thrust washers are fairly easy to sort out. The movement of the the crank is a specific distance. The best way to measure is to find the maximum movement divide by 2 and work out the right size washers to put in allowing for the float. My maths is probably worse than yours, but I still get the .38 thou figure, what do you reckon? My end float is nearly twice the recommended, so an easy equation is I need nearly twice what I have now, so hopefully my 38 thou isn't far out......................unless?
  5. fox889

    Checking endfloat

    I've ordered HQ shells & mains from Revington TR, they say they're as near to VP2's as you can get so possibly worth a call to Rob at Revington TR? My end float was 15.7 thou even worse! Happy days!
  6. I think I need 38 thou, so 1 x +20 plus 1 x +15 will give me +35 oversize. Could even do 2 x +20 either way the dti gauge should give me a more accurate measurement once the new t/w's are in. I'm like you, I think the end float is horrific, she's been bored before at some point but looking at the crank & journals + the old shells, nothing jumps out & says 'knackered'.
  7. fox889

    Checking endfloat

    Kevo: Is that bottom end in pieces yet?
  8. Got it............took a while, but I got it!
  9. I'm going to regret this Neil................what's SPMPW..............
  10. Thanks Poolboy, well here goes with my maths input: end float measured with a dti gauge (with t/w below) 0.157 thou (0.40mm) rear T/W 0.104 thou (2.65mm) front T/W 0.111 thou (2.82mm) going by what I have read before, thickness of old washers (0.215) + crank tolerance (0.007) = 0.222 thou. 2 standard thrust washers = 0.184 which means I have to find +38 thou from somewhere? If I wanted to use 'off the shelf' thrust washers could I do the following: Rear thrust could be +30 & front thrust could be +10 Rear thrust could be +25 & front thrust could be +15 Am I far out or do I get 5/10 'could do better, see me after school'? Thanks in advance Nick.
  11. Then Chris Witor it will be! Nothing like a recommendation & an +1 from Neil makes it even better!
  12. Seems I was getting myself into a bit of a tizzy trying to calculate the thrust washers I need. Turned out that after my calculating in metric I hadn't realised that the thrust washers were in imperial. Hopefully if my calculator is correct, I need +20's on each side or a mixture to get to 40 thou. Thanks to everyone who gave their advice, as usual, much appreciated. Nick.
  13. Sorted the T/W's hopefully (+20's) & the last thing to check is the oil pump. Seems it's seen better days, scored & a little too much play for my liking. I need a new oil pump but remember reading on here that several new pumps had worse tolerances than their owners old pumps. If I buy a new pump, can someone point me in the right direction for a good quality oil pump from a quality source? Much appreciated Nick.
  14. Thanks Andy, I'm having problems working out the maths on the measurements above, one part of me thinks I need massive wide T/W's!
  15. Denis, I've read a lot about Scott Helms which is an avenue I may have to take. Looking at my measurements above, I need a 'wide' T/W? which now worries me! Nick.
  16. Ah! Thanks Roger, I even re-sized the photo's and still wouldn't upload, "server error" apparently!
  17. Why won't my photo's show on the above thread?
  18. It's cold, windy & raining outside so you might as well read this blurb & have a giggle: So, sump came off today. Checked end float on the crankshaft pulley to find it was 0.40mm........horrendous!!!!??? Nearly twice the max it should be? (You'll have to forgive me with measurements etc, maths & metric are not my speciality!)......anyway......I had visions of finding the thrust washers laying in the sump & the crank mangled as has happened here on the forum. First thing to greet me was a spotlessly clean oil pump gauze although the sump has 1/8th worth of crud-grey sludge but no TW's nor 'bits' so that pleased me. Took the rear main bearing cap off & the crank looks shiny & unscathed. Took the big-end cap off & the same, the shells are below (providing they upload ok) & don't seem too bad. I have seen much worse on here so again, that pleases me. ok, onto the shells & bearings. I thought, because I had no other reason to think different, that she was an unmolested engine (75k) in my care 3 years, previous owner 14 years (who didn't really look after her). It appears, if I read everything correctly, that she has been reground. I'll give you the info that's stamped on the shells etc. Big-end shells: G (with a box round it) S2022 SA D(with a box round it) 020U/ST/BDX 149549 Main bearings: D (with a box round it) MX T/B G (with a box round it) S2020 SA 010 U/S 149550 I haven't a clue what the above means but am I correct in thinking the big-ends are +20 and the mains are +10 meaning she's be reground at some time? Lastly, for those who are still awake, this is the part that really muddles me.......maths. ok, say the end float was 0.40mm (checked it a dozen times) the rear T/W measured 2.65mm the front T/W measured 2.82mm what size thrusts do I need to order to get the recommended endfloat please? If I've sent you to sleep I'm sorry, but those who are still awake I would really appreciate your thoughts. ps Kevo, you replied to my other thread re-endfloat, I was slightly dubious about dropping the sump but in the end it was quite easy, hope your 'sump-off' this weekend goes ok, let us all know please. I'm now going to hit the 'post' button & hopefully the photo's will remain on here, thanks again in anticipation! Nick.
  19. fox889

    Checking endfloat

    Hi Kevo, sump all dropped. Just about to put what's happened in a separate thread. I was going to get all my shells-bearings-thrusts from Revington only because they have HQ bearings & they seem a decent lot.
  20. fox889

    Checking endfloat

    ok, I just 'copied' a photo on the last post & it's now disappeared, sorry but I did try!!!!
  21. fox889

    Checking endfloat

    Dave, just found this, again hope this helps?
  22. fox889

    Checking endfloat

    Dave, if you look on ebay atDial test indicator DTI gauge & magnetic base stand clock gauge TDC UK Seller this gives you an idea what the dial gauge looks like. If you look on the 'search' tag above & put in crankshaft endfloat all manner of threads will appear. Also, if you have the 'brown bible' workshop manual it's in there in much greater detail. Hope this helps. Nick.
  23. I know the normal rule of thumb is to use a dial on the crank pulley, but, reading through many various threads on 'endfloat' I came across someone that had the sump off and measured the endfloat at the crank journal with feeler gauges. As I plan to drop my sump in the next few days is this an acceptable alternative? I have a magnetic dial so if the answer is 'dial only' it's not a problem. It seems possibly an easier way? Thanks Nick.
  24. fox889

    Mucky Head!

    Roger: I do.....I do!!!!!!!! Neil: Agree, will just continue to have regular oil changes and cleaning/dropping sump may also help! Thanks chaps.
  25. fox889

    Mucky Head!

    Roger: I'm only reluctant because of what 'others' say, I take notice of those who know more than me. I read an article that mentioned plasti-gauge so just thought I would mention it. Peter: I think you're right, I just need to get on with it and see what appears! The engine is not 100% as she's low (ish) on oil pressure when hot and will also knock for a second or two on a cold start up if she catches straightaway, 5 secs cranking gets oil pressure before she catches. Thanks again, advice much appreciated. Nick.
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