fox889
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Posts posted by fox889
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Thanks for the support so far, The colour Magenta has grown on me since I purchased her last July from Classic Chrome down in Richmond " London " the price wasn't too bad for the condition she's in £8500 including delivery.
Roger a good idea to get in touch with the local group for help and advice, I have a brilliant work shop, my father-in-law kept battery hens back in the days when it was not quite so controversal Edwina Curry put him out of business but thats another story, anyway I have converted one of the buildings into a work shop 100ft long 20ft wide 3phase supply unfortunitely it's not high enough for a lift so have put a pit in with proper steps, electrics and air. I can weld and have got gas and mig also a very large compressor/tank and grit blasting facility.
Back in 1999 I restored my TR7 grit blasted to bare metal complete strip down renewed every thing that needed replacing and it's still looking great it's a 1981 DHC with a stage 2 head tubler manifold and sports exhaust, although I do like the 6 better.
When I work out how to put pictures on here I will post some, oh yes I also own a 1947 Fordson Major E27N Tractor which I occassionly show down at the local steam museum on opening days.
Nibbo
Nibbo, what part of God's very own county do you live in, I'm between Stowmarket & Bury. You probably come under the Abbot & Stour club.
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Nick,
I agree with Rien, you need more airflow to set the butterflies. Those balancing devices are more accurate and readings reproducible around and above mid way through the range. Having said that you could have a twisted throttle spindle on the front throttle body. I think there's some advice on the forum about what to do if that turns out to be the case.
I saw a piece that said unscrew the two butterfly screws half a turn then snap shut the throttle several times to see if that would settle it down.
I think you & Rien have a good point about the revs, I balanced these at tickover (900rpm) so may be prudent to up the revs a bit & try again.
Thanks
Nick.
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Hi, how did you no it is a butterfy that give the different value, yes it is possible but on what rpm do you have measure this, try on different rpm's say 1000, 1500 & 2000. Balancing ad iddle are not accurate in my opinion or you must temporary blank off the balancing pipes.
Take a cylinder leak and pressure test and see what this give before you try to adjust the butterfy or torn the delicate spindles.
Cheers,
Rien
The only reason Rien that I point the finger at the butterflies is that 5 out of 6 butterflies all read 1.2 on the carb balancer & the odd one out reads 1.8.
I did set the butterflies up at 900 rpm on tickover & you may have a good point in me trying to balance them at slightly higher revs.........I'll try this when the weather improves..............December!!!
Thanks
Nick.
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Just bought one of these carb sync gadgets for my CR series throttle bodies, superb piece of kit for very little money.
I've adjusted all 3 bodies to read 1.2 on the scale, rear body has both chambers at 1.2 as do the middle pair of chambers, the front body has the right hand chamber at 1.2 but the left hand chamber is at 1.8 (still with me?) so, I've still got a bit of hesitation when 'feathering' the throttle at low revs i.e. going around town in 2nd, very embarassing!
My question is, can I adjust one of the butterflies a little to get the balance right do you think?
If anyone wants to look at the carb gadget there's a link below. I can only speak as I find, it worked well when I balanced them over the weekend.
Nick.
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Only a thought, but I had this problem on a Rolls Royce many years ago where the rubber brake hose collapsed inside, therefore making a virtual one-way-valve type of hose. When you braked it wouldn't let the fluid back, but she never 'locked up' as yours is doing. It made the brakes bind quite badly, enough to boil the grease in one of the hubs mind you! It sounds as if your brakes free off after a while which may point to the rubber hoses?
As Manuel said in Fawlty Towers............."I know nothing!".
Hope this helps.
Nick.
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Thanks chaps for your thoughts, much appreciated!
Nick.
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I've read loads of comments on the use of lead substitute & general fuel additives on here which has now got me scratching what little hair I have left. This is what I have:
1973 TR6 CR with 75k genuine miles on the clock, the last owner of 14 years used Castrol Valvemaster and/or Wynns Lead substitute.
The engine is not pristine, the compressions are down a bit but she doesn't smoke, shake, rattle or roll. Oil pressure is 45/50psi hot @ 2000 rpm. In general she runs as good as she's going to under the circumstances.
I've got one of K Raven-Smiths recon metering units to go on when my back straightens up........so my question is this:
Do I use standard unleaded with one of the additives above
Do I use super-douper unleaded with one of the additives above
Do I use no additive at all with either standard or super-douper unleaded.
Thanks in appreciation of your help
Nick.
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Just had mine recored by a small company in Ipswich called Sheldrake & Wells (01473-711131) brilliant job & the cost was £192.00 inc the dreaded vat.
I'd rather have my original rad redone than buy what could be an inferior "new one".
If you can get it to Ipswich I'd try them.
Nick.
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the valve is in the boot and can be set on thr vehicle.just make sure you check the pressure at the metering unit with the engine running.
Just back from the depths of the boot, I think I've found it?
go from the tank, follow the large pipes past the the bosch pump & up on the floor is a union that is bolted to the body & has a large union on top that comes from the bosch pump it then has what looks like a return pipe that goes back to the top of the tank then the other end it goes through the floor I guess to the MU.
Now, if that union is the PRV then it looks mucky & dirty & shows no signs of being disturbed, I can't even see where or how you alter the pressure. It looks like it's in 2 pieces & possibly has 6 sides of maybe 9/16th or 5/8th spanner size?
Or................I've found something else!
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the valve is in the boot and can be set on thr vehicle.just make sure you check the pressure at the metering unit with the engine running.
Thanks, I'll be having a quick look later on & your MU is all reboxed & will hit Royal Mail in the morning thanks.
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Hello Fox
It might be better to send your presure relief valve the Malcom at Prestige injection to set up. you will no its set up right.
Lee
Ah, so it's nothing you can adjust yourself then?
Sounds silly, but on the service sheet from the previous owner it says "to re-adjust pressure to 112 psi.
Would you necassarily have a new PRV when you install a new Bosch pump?
I won't name the dealer but what they carried out on the previous owners service was scandalous & downright shoddy, so I'm not that happy with what's been done.
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Having just changed all the injectors & fitted a new MU she's running very rich.
Previous owner had a new Bosch pump fitted last year & she was lumpy when I bought her late last year.
I'm hoping it's simply too much pressure, question is, how & where do I adjust the pressure?
I've got someone who's got the equipment to test the pressure at the MU but need to know what to do next if the pressure is too high, say over 106 psi.
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Hi Nick
Thank you for your reply.
Yes the car is from Newark, Do you know anything about the car?
No, I just remember seeing the car on ebay (I think) a few months ago (Oct/Nov) before I purchased my CR series, the colour & number plate just lodged in my mind. I remember asking him about the overdrive & when he said there wasn't one I didn't go any further.
Hope you get on with her fine, mine at present is like a money pit!!!!!
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Hi
I've just purchased my first TR6, which was viewed the car in the day light, I collected my TR today and by the time i managed to take it home after taken half the street and my family out it became dark, tried the dash switch but nothing made the dash boards lights come on.
Is there anybody out there who knows, what could be the cause and what is needed to fix my light failure
Regards
Tyrone
Maybe something simple like the rheostat (dimmer) maybe turned all the way off? It's situated beneath the oil pressure guage.
Just a point, that '6' looks familiar, did it come from Lincolnshire somewhere? I thought I saw on ebay several months ago, if it's the one I think it is, she hasn't got overdrive?
Hope you're pleased with her
Nick.
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Thanks to everyone for their input, much appreciated!
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There's no tap Roger, all I've got is a 3/4 brass(?) type plug that sits just above the starter motor. Earlier versions may well have had a tap similar to the one's found on rads, but all I've got is a plug!
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I was always brought up with 'preventive maintainance' therefore after buying my '73 TR6 last November I'm at last getting round to the service aspect of the car. The previous owner (14 years) who I thought had looked after the car....perhaps hasn't! Let me explain....
New hoses-fan belt-rad cap-thermostat-anti freeze all ordered, drained the rad & thick brown sludge came out, tried back flushing her but still wouldn't clear, so off came the rad, turned it upside down, shook it about with a hose attached & loads of brown liquid came out. Wasn't convinced all the cr*p was out so had the rad out & re-cored. Flushed the heater out & there was a little brown water but not a lot.
So, rad came back yesterday & all fitted in, new thermostat in (old one was virtually rusted in) all new hoses installed & I thought I'd better just drain the block via the block plug.................nothing came out!
I stuck a small screwdriver gingerly in there & it was covered in black grime, now I've filled the rad etc up with fresh rainwater (softer than the cr*p we have here, it's so hard!) fresh antifreeze & she runs well, warms up a treat, all the hoses are hot so there doesn't seem to be a problem with circulation.
I initially drove her home from Kent back in November with no problems at all, my guess is the thermostat was stuck open hence she didn't get to optimum temperature & therefore didn't overheat because of the sludged up radiator.
My question is, what do I do now? Do I gingerly stick a wire coat hanger up the block & wiggle it about, do I block the rad hoses off & stick caustic soda in the block or even Mr Muscle drain cleaner or do I leave it, run her for a bit & see if it clears naturally with the fresh water & antifreeze?
Your thoughts are most welcome........as usual!
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Keep her Damson, lovely colour & slightly away from the 'norm'.
My opinion & my opinion alone!
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Funny you say this, I've had a new Bosch pump less than a year & less than 1k miles (or should I say the previous owner had a new one fitted before I bought her) & when I drove her back from the paint shop this week (albeit with the hood up) there was a noticeable whine from the fuel pump which seemed to go up & down with the revs?
Is this a common fault?
Not that it should make any difference, the car was serviced & new bosch pump fitted by Maidstone Sports Cars.
Nick.
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Just had both my bumpers re-chromed & the guy who did them commented on how good they were structurally. He's found with s/s that the fit is sometimes a bit hit & miss.
Cost also comes into it, both my bumpers came out at £350 all in (front was very scabby) whereas new s/s are £500+?
It's down to personal choice I suppose, I'm one for trying to keep the old girl as original as I can hence the original bumpers have been re-chromed.
I'm not condeming s/s for one minute
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Dear Tony
I share your pain. I have now completely refurbished that area 3 times (involving stripping everything out and repainting). I now simply do not believe that a leak proof master cylinder exists. It is a mythical creature. As I am contemplating a complete respray in the next few years it is my intention to completely strip ALL hydraulic circuits, bleed through with about a gallon of meths, change ALL the rubber seals and then replace with silicone fluid.
I was told that CoMMA DOT 4 synthetic wouldn't attack my paint and that turned out to be a crock
Not happy!
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Try DOT 5, I'm using that on my classic motorcycle & apparently wont attack the paintwork.
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Funny you should say this Bob, I've just bought a 'hose kit', thermostat, fan belt & fresh anti-freeze to do a 'winter service' maily because i've just bought the car & tend to do this as a 'precaution' rather than a remedy.
I'll let you know how it goes!
Nick.
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Nick,
Those readings, bearing in mind my point about lack of calibration, are exactly the same as the old ones. Did you try an oil test?
JOhn
I shyed away from doing a 'wet' test as I thought the dry readings were quite acceptable for a bog standard 75k engine, rightly or wrong!
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sorry, should have said earlier, throttle fully open.
Aftermarket air cleaner
in TR6 Forum
Posted
Somewhere on here, I thought I saw a PI set up wearing aftermarket air filters which got rid of the plenum. I'm haveing problems balancing my throttle bodies & getting ticked off with keep taking the plenum off each time to balance.
It looked like individual air filters (3) a bit like K&N perhaps, would make things easier & neater if I had them.
Any ideas?
Cheers
Nick.