fox889
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Posts posted by fox889
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14 deg seems a lot to be honest.
I started mine at 11 degs then finished off at 8 degs which she's more than happy with.
you'll have no probs with Neil, I've had the complete pi system refurbed over the past 12 months!
Nick.
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Thanks Bill, much appreciated.
NIck.
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Looking through fleabay & Rimmers, there appears to be two Castrol Valve Master additives, one standard (I assume) & one 'plus'.
I normally use Shell V Power (or BP/Esso equivilant) so, do I go for the standard or the plus?
I run a bog standard 6 on pi if that helps?
Thanks.
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Thanks everyone for their input, just to satisfy my crazy mind I'm going to pop the ends & shells out & see, worst case scenario is a rebuild which to be fair isn't a major issue. (I don't mean that in a patronizing way, it's not the end of the world).
Old saying "if it has to be done it has to be done".................simples!
Nick.
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Engine out full rebuild
Neil is unfortunately correct.
The big end & main bearing shells will only wear like that if your crankshaft is worn and has ovality on several if not all journals. Hence, a crank regrind will be in order and whilst at it, a full engine rebuild will make things as good as new.
My Condolences......
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I suppose what I'm trying to do is to 'save' the crank by replacing the ends & shells while I save up the cost of a full rebuild (which I don't have a problem with) and hopefully make her last another year or so then out with the engine etc.
Are you saying it won't work or will work but not advisable?
I've put a spin-on oil filter & that has got rid of the knock from cold & also the knock when starting up from hot after a 10 minute stop etc.
Oil pressure cold @ 2500 rpm in overdrive is 65psi then drops to 25psi after a 30 mile run (still @ 2500 rpm)
Tickover (1000 rpm new throttle bodies hence high tickover) cold is 55 psi & drops to 15 psi after a 30 mile run.
Even before the throttle bodies were refurbed & she would idle at 800 rpm the oil light never flickered.
I'm worried about the harm (if any) if I carry on using her then rebuild the engine say next year or the year after?
Your thoughts as always mucho appreciated!
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Low oil pressure after a 20 mile run plus a faint 'knock' if she exceeds 3500rpm means I'm about to change the big ends & shells plus the thrust washers.
Is there anything I should be wary of?
I've been told it's easy enough but the rear mains are a bit tricky as they're rather close to the bell housing?
I know about being carefull regarding letting the crank drop & damaging the front oil seal etc.
I have the advantage of a professional ramp which hopefully will make it slightly easier.
Knowledge-first hand experience is always gratefully received!
Thanks
Nick.
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I've taken both horns off the car & tried them out on a seperate battery & they're still pathetic so I'm assuming the relay is ok.
I either set about them with a hammer to see id it frees anything up or there are several individuals on fleabay advertising Lucas horns for around £20 inc postage, I'll try a pair I think.
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......or should I rephrase that to 'hooters'!
I can pass wind louder than the 'parp' eminating from the engine bay!
I've taken both units off the car & yes they work but are pathetic to say the least!
Time for a pair of new hooters.........any ideas please?
Do I go with Moss or TRGB or fleabay?
I would rather not mess around with brackets etc simply unbolt oldies & bolt on the newbies......simples!
As always, appreciate your thoughts.
Nick.
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Had the same problem & used an old wire coat hanger as Stuart suggests, took a bit of shifting but it cleared in the end.
If I were you, I'd also gently flush the heater matrix out then take the radiator out & back flush that, I think you'll be surprised at how much **** will come out..........I was!
If you flush everything then you shouldn't have a problem!
Good luck
Nick.
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Richard, the nurse will call round in the morning!
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I had the same problem Brian with my 6, ended up buying a Gunsons 'Gastester', this measures the CO of your car.
Nice piece of kit to have around, you can always drop your local garage a drink & use their machine which they have for MOT's?
You can adjust the metering unit slightly although this could mess up any warranty you have/had.
As a matter of interest, what were your compression readings?
All the best
Nick.
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Had my originals rechromed by a local guy, superb and nice to keep originality if you can.
Only advice i would give is shop around as prices to vary from the sublime to the ridiculous!
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Hi Tom, is that the original number?
I have UFN 325 which I'm ashamed to say I took off a series 2 Lambretta & put it on my '6'!
Cheers
Nick.
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Ta Peejay!
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Thanks Robin & Ade, hope to weilding the spanners just before crimbo!
Cheers
Nick.
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Richard, I suppose what I'm afraid of is taking the exhaust manifold off & shearing at nut, then all hell breaks loose.
I'm also guessing that looking at the engine the manifold(s) have never been off so am I asking for trouble taking the exhaust manifold off?
Cheers
Nick.
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Thanks Robin, I can see the top one's but didn't realise there were some underneath.
Do you have to replace a gasket or is this all part of the exhaust/inlet gasket?
Cheers
Nick.
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I need to have the throttle bodies refurbed over winter, am I correct in thinking that all that holds these on are 3 nuts & locating pins?
Anything I should know or look out for when taking these off.
it's a '73 CR.
Thanks
Nick.
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Had all four of mine powdercoated (£200) chose the colour myself from his swatchet (?) set.
Powdercoating, although expensive compared to DIY painting, is far better, lasts longer & is very durable. Also the sand blasting gets all the rust out that perhaps hand sanding doesn't.
Agree with Pilkie in that I don't think there's a 'correct' paint code, just find one you like........simples!
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Well, removed the tank on my '73 '6' today as part of a program to re-position the Bosch pump under the floor on the outside. Why remove the tank? I had issue's over the summer with the old girl spluttering or even cutting out in extreme hot weather, various causes were put forward by the kind gents on here, one of which was debris of some kind inside the tank hindering the flow.
Tank removed, fuel drained (clear as a bell) sender unit removed & what's that rattling?.............previous owner had dropped one of those lead bags in the tank (not sure what you think of these things). Had a good look around the inside with a pencil torch & all looks good. Yes there's a slight piece of corrosion on the bottom of the tank where the two halves are joined but apart from that she's ok.
What did surprise me was, that over the feed outlet is what can best be described as a metal bowl with a metal tube that goes to the top of the tank & one assumes is the feedback from the MU?
I was not expecting this bowl covering the outlet, I'm guessing it stops debris/pices of rust etc?
I'm not convinced that applying 'slosh' or similar is a good idea now as there can't be that much room between the tank casing & this bowl, any sealant would minimise this gap?
- The lead bag is a good/bad idea?
- I've been running her on V-Power + Castol valvemeaster & now this lead bag....good/bad
- Is this 'bowl' covering the outlet original
- Slosh it or leave it?
- I was going to have the tank flushed & checked by an independent radiator specialist, not sure now!
Appreciate people's thoughts on this, two or more heads are better than one!
Best wishes
Nick.
- The lead bag is a good/bad idea?
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Millers do a 'classic' 20/50 oil...........available from all good outlets!
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Throttle bodies appeared to be refurbed one's or at least had a major clean.
£6k to buy must have been a set up surely?
Not a bad 1 hours worth of entertainment & far better & more realistic than those clowns on Ch5 with Classic Car Rescue(?) which is naff in the extreme & so false it's untrue!
Rant over......nurse!!
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Popping on the overun could also be the throttle bodies are slightly out of sync?
Nick.
Acceptable tolerance for wheels
in TR6 Forum
Posted
I would have thought that any 'wobble' would be taken up by wheel balancing? Unless of course the wheel is totally out of true?
If you take the offending wheels down to your local tyre place & they put them on their machine it will be pretty obvious if they are out?.....................................................I stand to be corrected mind you!