Andy Moltu
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Posts posted by Andy Moltu
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Just be aware the currently available latching relays are triggered by negative pulse (earth) which wasn’t the case when the technicalities article was written. (Changes to the internal wiring) Blew 3 (at £20+ a pop) before someone on the forum advised me of this.
To overcome this you need to add another relay that uses the output from the headlamp flash to momentarily make an earth connection to the latching relay, rather than a +12v pulse.
When done it is more elegant than adding another switch to the column.
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You can mix oversizes to get the correct end float.
If it is close, make sure you don’t go below the minimum as there is a risk of them grabbing when the engine is hot and doing serious damage.
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I agree, far too many of the auto dipping headlights do so far too late.
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With regular oil changes they should last ages unless you spend ages with your foot on the clutch pedal.
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I guess the issue with filtering out the blue end of the spectrum to avoid glare/dazzle is that it may well mean we see less of what we need to when not being dazzled.
The old yellow neon street lights have a poorer road safety record than white ones because drivers could not see pedestrians as well. Street lighting went over to white light as the costs came down.
Even the French accepted that their yellow headlights were less good than white.
The problem is some headlights now are simply too bright and mounted (legally) too high to limit dazzle.
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Why experiment with dishwasher tablets when there are tried and tested flushing compounds available? Would you expect a dishwasher tablet to bring rust into circulation? Likewise scale - in a dishwasher it just has to inhibit the scale that forms in a single wash, which may be little if there is an inbuilt water softener.
Fernox products may work as there are similarities between the components of a central heating system and a car's cooling system. But again there is no claim from the manufacturer.
The RR club suggested use of Fernox coolant again relates to the similarities and also the lesser toxicity compared to regular automotive antifreeze.
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I guess it depends on what you have currently.
Modern leads seem more reliable than back in the day. Mine have lasted a long time, but like many uprated ignition components you will see little, if any, performance change if the components replaced were in good order. But perhaps the thing being uprated is reliability.
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How do these cope with welding spatter or grinding sparks?
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Take the sump off and do it properly.
The fiddly hassle of trying to squeeze past the sump, removal of swarf ect outweighs the cost of 6L of oil and a sump gasket.
On the bench its easy to fit a helicoil.
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I run my 195/65 Bridgestones at 27 all round.
Triumph opted for lower pressures at the front to give a little understeer. But that was on 165 tyres with 1960s construction and rubber. Even the modern equivalents of the original sizes may benefit from alterations in pressure to suite how you like the car.
Within reason there is no right or wrong, just better or worse for you and the tyres you have.
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Some switch off after a while to save the strobe but should switch back on when you reconnect.
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Some LEDs are effectively on or off, so reducing the voltage will see little difference to brightness until they switch off. (Like most fluorescent lights.)
Dimmers for these would effectively require very rapid on off switching to appear dimmed. (on for half the time gives the appearance of being half as bright (ish) if done at a high enough frequency.
Otherwise you will need dimmable LEDs with a dimmer that works with the the range of voltage and current draw of your LEDs as Bob has detailed above.
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One word of caution if you use a hose to flush the cooling system.
Our water pressure is over 3 bar or 45psi so quite a bit higher than the 13 psi (or 7psi) the coolant system runs at.
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You have several options throttle options.
The new bespoke Jenvey manifold/throttle body kit.
Modified standard inlet/throttle bodies. (DIY or from fredmillturn)
Weber style inlet manifolds mated to DCOE fit throttle bodies (from Jenvey but good copies from China used by the Nissan 240s etc) As well as Jenvey heritage throttle bodies which look like Webers.
All of the above can be mated to your chosen ECU, tps temp sensors etc. Emerald seems to be a favourite and has a built-in atmospheric pressure sensor.
Just in the research stage so not done it myself yet.
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A lot of these manifolds & sports exhausts don't use the mounting.
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The bellows thermostat isn’t necessarily better or more reliable.
Some of the earlier 4 cylinder engines had no restriction in the flow through the bypass hose. As the engine warms and the stat opens the thermostat closes off flow through the bipass so that the flow goes through the radiator.
Later cars have a restriction in the housing to limit the flow through the bipass hose so there is no need for the thermostat to obscure this opening when the stat is open. If you restrict the bipass on an earlier car you can use a later stat.
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Refill the water in the morning.
Start it up, keep an eye on the temperature gauge and check the top hose to confirm the thermostat is opening properly. If not you probably have solved the problem
Do you still have the mechanical fan or just the electric fan? If just the electrical one, check it switches on as the temperature rises, or manually switch it on and see if keeps the temperature down.
I had Scimitar GTE 5A that seemed to gobble up thermostats with alarming regularity.
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I never understood why anyone would use stonechip/underseal in the engine bay....... Unless they are hiding something.
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Not experienced that issue having done it times since being shown it 40 years ago.
If you are concerned about the tang/burrs where it breaks, you could run the hacksaw around the circumference so that these are contained within the diameter of the rod. In practice there is enough clearance for it not to be a problem.
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There is a far easier way.
Instead of using the standard pins, use a length of welding rod of the same diameter as the pins. Cut the rod 3/4 of the way through to the same length as the proper pins.
You can then compress the spring to expose the hole, slot the rod in and when it is in fully, bend the rod which breaks at the cut. No faffing around trying to hold a short pin in pliers or forceps whilst compressing the spring.
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If it's significantly high it may be stuck.
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Frustrating that the height of the headlamps on SUVs and trucks wasn’t restricted to the same height as a regular saloon.
As for the damaging effects of regular vehicle LEDs I remain unconvinced that they are quite as damaging as the claims in the above link. A lot of opinion rather than hard scientific evidence to support the assertions bundled up with a host of terminology to confirm the status/self importance of the author and her superior knowledge of the subject.
The “publication” would not seem to be a peer reviewed one of high esteem!
Yes a lot of people find them dazzling because they are bright white, poorly adjusted and emanating from eye level headlights on Chelsea Tractors.
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If the pressure with the PRV is correct the alternative (Not sure you can claim uprated as the correct term) you will see no performance benefit.
The diaphragm PRVs are easier to adjust on the car without filling your boot with fuel and are less prone to resonance if that blights your car. Rather than the buzz of the pump you get a note like you are being followed by a low flying aircraft.
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The key is to lube regularly. I'm in the grease camp. Twice a year even if you have done negligible mileage and don't skimp, over filling with oil or grease helps to push or wash out any grit or debris that might have got past the seal.
If you opt for oil you need to be sure the trunnions are sealed at the bottom "cap" as it won't stick around like grease. Many repros in the past weren't great.
Crankshaft thrust bearing conversion
in TR6 Forum
Posted
They used to be available in 2.5 thou oversize but can’t find them now.