Andy Moltu
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Posts posted by Andy Moltu
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I might be the voice or reason or howling at the moon but, if the hinge pins took 50+ years to wear out without a grease nipple, how many of us might have reasonable expectations of changing them again?
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Fill the end of the banjo bolt with a blob of braze and drill out to 1.5ml
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Howard Pryor has done this with Jenvey Heritage Weber lookalikes and the K6 I think and was very pleased with it on his 4.
I'm collecting bits to do my 4A but likely to use the Chinese Jenvey throttle body copies as about £1500 cheaper. I will likely use the Emerald K6 unit with wasted spark ignition.
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It's likely to be an internal issue within the master cylinder (tipping valve IIRC)
They are relatively easy but fiddly to rebuild as corrosion is less likely than the seals reaching the end of their days. However new ones are available from many of the Stag suppliers like James Paddock or you can have an exchange one from EJ Ward, the latter option being more expensive.
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Probably the reason for the caveat with Forlife was the corrosion inhibitors used.
It is recognised that mixing some blue non-OAT inhibitors with some red OAT antifreeze can cause problems including gelling if the cooling system isn’t flushed properly.
The OAT ones currently used in modern cars have considerably longer working life durations than your standard blue antifreeze which required replacement after 2-3 years as the inhibitors become less effective/used up.
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Yes, that was the scandal that hit Austrian wines years ago.
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If we park the competition cars to one side as this is different to the way most cars are used, the consideration is what sort of driving you might do on the road.
if we assume a thermostat is used to mitigate the potential impact of overcooling, there is a case for fitting one if you plan to do a lot high speed motorway driving in warm weather. The motorway networks were less when our cars were current and probably less likely to do continental blasts. If the stat opens then the cooler is probably helping. If it rarely opens then your cooler is just bling.
Coolers can fail (generally come off poorly in badger impacts) so worth carrying a 1/2” but connect the pipes if the cooler fails.
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If you haven’t got an overdrive box you can fit a J type or an A type to your car.
However your car would originally had an A type. If you fit a J type you need to be aware the chassis mounts which take the weight of the rear of the box are different for the two. Not a problem as such but you would need an adaptor if you fit a J type to your car.
Does it matter whether you have overdrive on 2nd & 3rd & 4th or just on 3rd & 4th is about how you choose to use it. The appeal of a 7 speed transmission is countered by the spacing of the gears. If you have a close ratio box it allows 7 gears. However the torque band of the 6 pot might render this superfluous. O/d 3rd useful in traffic If otherwise in and out of 4th and o/d in top is good for motorway cruising.
Triumph/Laycock dropped o/d 2nd to limit the torque through the J type. Some assume this is a suggestion that the J is weaker but is almost bombproof in reality.
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The 3 pin plug output on most out alternators is meant to carry an intended maximum of 30amps to the loom. This was why alternators with significantly higher outputs such as the A127 have an additional output post to take some of the current. In theory you take this to the solenoid.
As has been mentioned already some have a terminal for directly sensing the battery voltage so the output voltage can be slightly different to that sensed by the wires going to the main loom, especially if the run to the battery is long and carrying significant current. Probably not significant on our cars where the runs of wire between battery, solenoid/starter and alternator are pretty short.
Additionally some have a terminal to drive an electronic tachometer, not normally relevant for TRs.
The benefits of high output alternators for our cars are limited. If it can deliver enough current to supply all the electrics, more output becomes irrelevant. Even with an electric fan, Bosch pump and heated seats the current draw is finite. Having a spare 30amps alternator capacity won’t charge the battery much quicker as the voltage is regulated.
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Looks like a Reg Bowler linkage.
He borrowed my Revington linkage and re-engineered it to make it less floppy. I never fitted the fast idle mechanism when I put the linkage on originally so wasn't there to copy
Personally I use my right foot to control the idle speed when on choke.
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I wondered if it was an April Fool but it’s dated 12 April!
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The parts catalogues May seen good but lead to a near uniformity of prices with less scope for shopping around.
The jumbles were using the catalogue and price lists.
I guess this is too small an issue for referral as creating a near monopoly.
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It's flammable, doesn't cool as well as regular glycol/water mix.
Having a higher boiling point isn't that relevant as by the time the engine gets that hot it's in big trouble.
By those criteria you could fill the rad with brake fluid.....
Antifreeze mixed with water and corrosion inhibitors has stood the test of time because it is effective at its job of cooling the engine, taking that heat to the radiator where the heat is lost to the atmosphere whilst at the same time preventing corrosion in the waterways and not freezing when it gets really cold. Too much antifreeze in the mix and cooling is compromised for no gain in corrosion protection and in most climates an irrelevant increase in level of frost protection. When did it last get down to -30C in England?
Yes it might not boil if you forget to put the rad cap, on but that's about as much as I can say in it's favour.
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I know Allan Westbury modified a set of these TR6 ones to fit his 4A.
The 4's A frame is a bit more curvy as I recall and likely to even more tricky to adapt and look half decent. Nothing to stop you making a set using flexible board covered in foam and vinyl and forming a lip out of metal to hook behind the H frame sides.
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Given compression, cam timing likely to be OK. Being a tooth out probably not enough to make it spit and bang, merely move the power band up or down the rev range.
Ignition timing - is that 11degrees btdc on the correct side of the distributor cam lobe? It's easy to put it at 11 after or rotate the dizzy the wrong way so you are on the closing ramp of the cam.
Have you got the firing order correct?
Butterflies mis-aligned butterflies or manifold air leak.
Metering unit being mis-timed probably isn't enough to explain this. If injectors are spraying you probably have adequate fuel pressure but no harm in checking it.
Fake plugs? **** condensor, cap or rotor arm? CP (3ohm) coil in a CR (1.5ohm) car?
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I remember an exchange with BT when my email address was “hacked”
They just wouldn’t accept that it must have been at their end in spite of the address it bounced back from one only being on my but webmail account and not one that was in my Outlook address book on my PC.
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BT email seems to have woeful security.
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Old tyres can be scary and I would guess UV related deterioration would be greater in Australia than the UK. Too many people assume that low mileage classics’ tyres will be fine because they have minimal wear and no obvious cracks. However they tend to go hard, less grip in the dry and truly dangerous in the wet. The handling/grip argument becomes irrelevant in these circumstances.
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Blue Hylomar (like Red Hermetite) isn’t intended for permanent contact with fuel so I wouldn’t use it in this situation.
The key thing is to get the mating faces clean and do up tight enough.
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Re torquing shouldn’t break the seal. Composite gaskets to compress with time and heat cycles. Most of this happens early on.
On a newly rebuilt engine, My preference is to do the 20 min run if breaking a cam in. Then a few miles up the road.
Off with the rockers and retorque. Do the nuts one at a time in the sequence in the workshop manual. As Mick says back of the nut a little so that if it’s stuck down you don’t have to break the static friction when tightening up.
Do again after 500 to 1000 miles. Most of the movement is at the very first retorque.
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Half of the time the rubbish parts are sold by most of the TR suppliers as their is only one manufacturer of that item!
Setting up a parts supply business is beyond the TRR - it simply couldn't compete with the established suppliers who have established supply chains, warehousing and staff.
I'm not saying it couldn't be done but the costs would render it impractical for a club run by volunteers. The spares development fund has historically worked with the parts vendors to use their clout and supply chain and the clubs cash to pump prime initial production runs that would not make commercial sense for the suppliers to do.
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I guess it was too expensive for a road car and the benefits of mid range torque were less relevant to the racers for whom top end power is more important.
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That looks to be be an example of "Just because you can, doesn't mean you should!"
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Just bear in mind that the original system was cobbled together by Triumph pinching every penny they could to get the Lucas PI system down to the budget allocation! So often the original in factory condition was marginal and as a consequence small deterioration can be enough to mess things up.
EFI
in TR4/4A Forum
Posted
Unless you go with the Heritage Weber lookalikes, the throttle bodies are essentially “dumb” - you bolt on the throttle position sensors and injectors of your choice and the brain of your choice. The Sherryberg ones, like the std Jenvey ones are essentially DCOE mount and take the same linkages/filters. The former are Ali colour and the latter black finish so unlikely you might need support for them.
The bit where support may be needed is the ECU set up which will likely need if only for rolling road set up.