Lockheed Diff Oil Seal Replacement

[Mike Graham]

Have a bit of an oil leak at front of Lockheed diff on my 56 TR3, and before driving season starts was planning to replace oil seal at front of diff. Manual makes it sound very easy (assuming pre-load can be left as is). Is it really this simple or am I likely to encounter "hidden" issues? Anything special to look out for? Thanks, Mike

 

 

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Simple job.

1. Obtain the seal - If it has a leather seal, like those from Chicago Rawhide used to be, be sure to soak it in oil for a week before. Remember this is a rigid axle car TR2/3/4, the seal for all IRS and solid axle 4A if different.

USE Standard Triumph pt no 100898 = CR or SKF 15194

<< http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/popup_parts_lookup_457012.htm >>

2. Jack and trestle rear of car - drain axle. Rear brakes pulled on hard. - an assist pushing the foot brake pedal may be needed to stop the rear wheels turning as you undo/tighten the drive flange nut.

3. Undo propshaft

4. Remove split pin, big nut and washer from the pinion shaft, that hold the drive flange on.

5. Pull off drive flange - catch oil that dribbles out - usually pulls off by hand on an old axle. - DO NOT strike the pinion shaft threaded bit or you may create a set of new issues to deal with.

6. Inspect/polish/clean the seal land of drive flange - if grooved consider repairing with Speedi-Sleeve.

<< http://www.skf.com/us/products/vehicle-aftermarket/automotive/drivetrain/index.html >>

You need to work out what size to order.

<< http://www.ebay.com/bhp/speedi-sleeve >>

7. Fun Time - NOTE WHICH WAY ROUND THE SEAL IS FITTED - Dig out/lever out old seal. This is fiddly but is achievable. We have used big screwdrivers/levers or seal hooks, work from side to side to ease it out.

8. Clean area the seal came from thoroughly and the spline shaft.

9. Insert new seal the right way round. - some use a sealant on the outside of the seal to the diff casing.

10. Oil the seal land surface of the drive flange and seal surface. Push in drive flange.

11. Refit washer and nut - again sealant is often used under the nut and washer.

12. Re-torque nut to factory spec. - see 2 for note on stopping wheels from rotating. and re spit pin. - again fiddly.

13. Re fit prop shaft, refill axle oil, lower to ground and enjoy your TR again.

 

Hope this helps

 

Cheers

Peter W

Edited April 7, 2014 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[Mike Graham]

Wow, Peter, great step by step set of instructions. Thanks so much. Will be great help for me as well as others who tackle this job. Cheers, Mike

[vivdownunder]

Mike, from the above excellent job description, unless you have a hoist, work out what tools you need and try and take them all under in one hit.

 

It's hard enough working under the car without constantly hopping out for a different spanner.

 

Rgds,

 

Viv

[Mike Graham]

Viv, I do have a hoist, but always find I need to go in and out often to get another tool! Just a lot easier to get out from under the car now :-) Cheers, Mike

[Mike Graham]

Well got everything off OK ... worst part was getting the cotter pin out! Anyway, managed to mess up the seal when I was putting it back in. My fault. Seal for TRF was Pioneer Weston W26215059R6 and original (much more substantial in build) looks like DC262116. I want to find same seal locally if possible to same time and shipping cost. Not much luck cross-checking parts on-line. Anyone have other part numbers I could try? Original TR part no was 100898 (Moss lists as 520-090). Thanks again. Mike

Edited April 10, 2014 by Mike Graham

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

SKF 15194

 

http://www.skfextranet.com/Catalogs/457010/sealdetail.asp?s=15194

 

Peter W

Edited April 18, 2014 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[Mike Graham]

Thanks Peter, will make note of that number. In the meantime, I ordered a couple from TRF that should arrive early next week. Cheers, Mike